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Thanks! Yeah the stories old tools could tell, better than any painting. Like many of them we find it looks like this one came into a life of abuse at some point.
COTS Project Thread
- Thread starter cityofthesouth
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Thanks! Yeah the stories old tools could tell, better than any painting. Like many of them we find it looks like this one came into a life of abuse at some point.
First generation probably made a proud living with that tool, then it was used occasionally by the next generation who had been taught on the use of it, and the soft-fingered paper pusher third allowed it to languish on the presumption it was just an old piece of family junk meant for use as back stop/bludgeon/boat anchor/recycle yard item.
I'm glad you rescued that one and gave it a new lease on life.
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The octagoning looks real good, JB.
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Haha! That sounds eerily similar to the story I had in mind too.
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Thanks Grimalkin!
Spent too much time getting hung up with ignorance. Time to move on to something that actually matters. Got my Ash sort of cleaned up into something I could work with and tried putting that little Zbirovia hatchet to work. Turns out that thing is pretty nice. I used the factory edge and it held up very well. Weight and balance feels good to me. First Ash project.
flintedge_hatchet_progress by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
flintedge_hatchet_progress2 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
flintedge_hatchet_wedge by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
flintedge_hatchet1 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
flintedge_hatchet2 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr- Joined
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That hatchet handle is sweet. I saved it to my favorites.
Thanks!
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COTS- Yea, I really like what you did with the hatchet handle. Like Quinton, I am going to copy your idea for a half claw hatchet I want to rehang. Since your hatchet is a carpenters half hatchet, for me, I would have to cut the handle off flat with the top of the eye. I spent too many years using one as a carpenter and like to use it in corners.
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Thank you! You're still nailing it on the fresh adjectives! Haha!
Ahhh, that's a good point. It could be hacked off easily enough, and now I'm inclined to.
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craftsmanhatchethandle_ripley by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
craftsmanhatchethandle_fi by city_ofthe_south, on FlickrSo for this project I ground off a bunch of material behind the edge on the Zbirovia hatchet and put a fresh edge on it. The steel as near as I can tell, is excellent. I repeatedly cut through the knot in this handle with the hatchet and there is absolutely no sign of damage on the edge. I am liking it more and more. As you can see here, I had lots of good help which is very important.
craftsmanhatchethandle_36grit by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
craftsmanhatchethandle_80grit by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
craftsmanhatchet1 by city_ofthe_south, on FlickrNot thrilled about the worm groves I uncovered or the knot, but it's probably the most like a vintage handle that I've ever made as far as looks go. Not sure about the wood quality however.
craftsmanhatchet2 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
craftsmanhatchet_swell by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
craftsmanhatchet_wedge by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
craftsmanhatchethandle_fit by city_ofthe_south, on FlickrAnd last the True Temper sharpened up and ready for action.
flintedge_truetemper by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
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I really enjoy looking back through your thread multiple times, your work always looks great! I don't know if you mentioned earlier, but what length handle is on the Plumb jersey with the red handle? I have a True Temper that is that same size and I can't decide how long of a handle to do. It came with a 30" but I think I will repurpose that onto a slightly smaller head. I want to split firewood with the axe so I am thinking 32" or 36". Do you mind me asking how tall you are that might put into context the length you chose.
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Thanks! Got a couple more blacksmithing hammers to do for a friend locally, but man one of them is in rough shape.
Thank you! That Plumb has a 30" handle (it's 30" finished length). I'm 5'10" with about a 30" inseam and about a 30" arm with my fingers extended. I don't know if there is any science involved, but I "feel" like 30" is the sweet spot for me. Nothing saying a longer handle wouldn't work just fine. I swung a 36" handle axe for a long time before I ever gave any thought to the length of the handle.
Hey, thanks for the detailed response. I think I will go with a 32" like I was originally thinking. I am 6'1" with 32" inseam and 32" arm length so that sort of falls in line with what you did with your handle. The 30" on their now just feels a bit short, but I think 36" will be too long. I am looking forward to seeing more of your work.
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Glad to hear it. All the guys here helped me get to this point and hopefully I can help some other folks in the same way.
Yeah bingo. I really think those body measurements are a good reference point for getting the right length. It's not set in stone, but a good rule of thumb I guess. I don't think 36" (or even longer) handles came into being because there were giants roaming the woods, but possibly from a safety standpoint, and more likely the extra power and reach. For those of us who use axes as more of a multipurpose tool, body mechanics kinda tip the priority scales IMO.
Hey actually one quick question. I apologize if it was mentioned earlier in the thread and I missed it. But your wedges are quite thick compared to the ones I've done this far. What do you use to cut the handle for the wedge? I've only done 1.25lb hatchets so far. So it might just be a function of the size of the head, but I thought I'd ask. Thanks!
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It's possible that a hatchet just needs a thinner wedge, how the taper in the eye is done has a lot to do with it. If you're looking at some of my hammers, I honestly have never seen two eyes alike and the wedge thickness is a direct result of the drastic taper (or lack thereof) in the eye. When I cut my own kerfs I use a regular ole back saw which has a thin blade. I have never felt compelled to widen kerfs or use saws which cut wider kerfs - in fact, I like them thin. I think there is a significant benefit to fitting a handle without a kerf - I can't tell you how many handles its been since I hung a tool with a pre-cut kerf - and I think the thickness of the wedge ends up being affected by having or not having the kerf cut during fitting. For one thing, it's not unusual to fit a handle and have it pretty well seated but have the (pre-cut) kerf crushed shut. Some guys use a temporary wedge during fitting to compensate, but that's really the same as just taking some extra material off even if it doesn't necessarily look like it needs it. I'm sure there are a bunch of factors. I drive wedges hard, I like it to sound like a nail being driven. I make my own wedges and I purposefully make them a touch thick at the upper portion so that I get the bulging effect. Nothing crazy, you don't want the wedge to try to pop out, but there is a sweet spot. If the wedge is driving too easily I'll pull it and take some off the bottom so that it gets tight quicker, etc. To find that sweet spot I just make a mark on the wedge corresponding to the depth of the kerf and in my mind I tell myself that I do not want to get to that line *easily*. I want it to be TIGHT about 1/4" or so before I get to that line (depends on the tool). I like for my brain to be saying, if you strike that wedge one more time you are going to crack the handle, crack the head, something terrible will happen. Then I know I'm there.