COTS Project Thread

cityofthesouth said:
It's possible that a hatchet just needs a thinner wedge, how the taper in the eye is done has a lot to do with it. If you're looking at some of my hammers, I honestly have never seen two eyes alike and the wedge thickness is a direct result of the drastic taper (or lack thereof) in the eye. When I cut my own kerfs I use a regular ole back saw which has a thin blade. I have never felt compelled to widen kerfs or use saws which cut wider kerfs - in fact, I like them thin. I think there is a significant benefit to fitting a handle without a kerf - I can't tell you how many handles its been since I hung a tool with a pre-cut kerf - and I think the thickness of the wedge ends up being affected by having or not having the kerf cut during fitting. For one thing, it's not unusual to fit a handle and have it pretty well seated but have the (pre-cut) kerf crushed shut. Some guys use a temporary wedge during fitting to compensate, but that's really the same as just taking some extra material off even if it doesn't necessarily look like it needs it. I'm sure there are a bunch of factors. I drive wedges hard, I like it to sound like a nail being driven. I make my own wedges and I purposefully make them a touch thick at the upper portion so that I get the bulging effect. Nothing crazy, you don't want the wedge to try to pop out, but there is a sweet spot. If the wedge is driving too easily I'll pull it and take some off the bottom so that it gets tight quicker, etc. To find that sweet spot I just make a mark on the wedge corresponding to the depth of the kerf and in my mind I tell myself that I do not want to get to that line *easily*. I want it to be TIGHT about 1/4" or so before I get to that line (depends on the tool). I like for my brain to be saying, if you strike that wedge one more time you are going to crack the handle, crack the head, something terrible will happen. Then I know I'm there. :p
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This was so well explained! Thanks a bunch! I'll give some of your tips a shot on my next hang.


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There have been hangs where the kerf at the top of the haft is completely closed at first try. This is usually because of eye taper or not enough taper. When that happens I pull the haft, put it in a wood vise, kerf sticking up above the vise. Then I take a small c clamp and close the kerf just at the very top. Take the back saw and cut the kerf again just to the point where the clamped portion is closed. At this point the saw will enter the kerf portion that is not clamped. Stop here, you now have a slight taper to your kerf. Now I make the wedge, from something slighter softer than hickory, like walnut. Follow COTS instruction above. This helps with some axe, hatchet, etc. hangs.
 
jstare said:
Hey, thanks for the detailed response. I think I will go with a 32" like I was originally thinking. I am 6'1" with 32" inseam and 32" arm length so that sort of falls in line with what you did with your handle. The 30" on their now just feels a bit short, but I think 36" will be too long. I am looking forward to seeing more of your work.
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If all you're doing is splitting, I'd still run with a 36" handle. The extra length will help to keep the sharp part out of your shin in the event of a glance. I'm just under 6' and 36" is a good length for splitting for me. However, if you're felling and bucking a 32" should work well for more control.
 
cityofthesouth said:
I think there is a significant benefit to fitting a handle without a kerf - I can't tell you how many handles its been since I hung a tool with a pre-cut kerf - and I think the thickness of the wedge ends up being affected by having or not having the kerf cut during fitting. For one thing, it's not unusual to fit a handle and have it pretty well seated but have the (pre-cut) kerf crushed shut. Some guys use a temporary wedge during fitting to compensate, but that's really the same as just taking some extra material off even if it doesn't necessarily look like it needs it. I'm sure there are a bunch of factors. I drive wedges hard, I like it to sound like a nail being driven. I make my own wedges and I purposefully make them a touch thick at the upper portion so that I get the bulging effect. Nothing crazy, you don't want the wedge to try to pop out, but there is a sweet spot. If the wedge is driving too easily I'll pull it and take some off the bottom so that it gets tight quicker, etc. To find that sweet spot I just make a mark on the wedge corresponding to the depth of the kerf and in my mind I tell myself that I do not want to get to that line *easily*. I want it to be TIGHT about 1/4" or so before I get to that line (depends on the tool). I like for my brain to be saying, if you strike that wedge one more time you are going to crack the handle, crack the head, something terrible will happen. Then I know I'm there. :p
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Good stuff. I agree that un-kerfed is the way to go.
 
I just started doing that on the last 4 or 5 rehangs, still don't know if it makes a difference. Just seems like a good idea!
 
quinton said:
I've always oiled my kerf, wedge and inside the eye before driving. Anyone else?
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Yep, seems to make the wedge drive easier, drop it head down in a bucket of BLO for a few days, then let it dry about a week before using. Swells and has a bit of a locking effect after drying.
 
I do exactly what Square_peg does. When my linseed/turp. mix dries I wax everything, including the head, with a beeswax/mineral oil mix.
 
garry3 said:
I think I have asked this question before , but what is DPG? Bare with me guys might be some senility involved.
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Dipropylene Glycol. NOT propylene glycol. It's the active ingredient in Swel-Lock and other wood swelling agents. It's also a base for many perfumes and is available generically for a fraction of the cost of Swel-Lock. I mix it with a small amount of water (~10%).
 
Looks sharp COTS! Very clean octagonalizing. Great work with attention to detail.
 
So someone finally came along and cut this Locust outside of my workplace and saved me the stump. Well, now we know why it was dead. While the guys were cutting they recovered one of the beetles and everyone kinda looked surprised. I wish I had taken a picture but I just assumed that I could jump online and figure out which kind of borer it was, but no. So when I got it home I started removing some bark in the hopes of finding another one, but no. So the beetle they found was much larger than any borer I'm familiar with, easily an inch long, maybe a touch more (going from memory here). It was a silver/grey color with black. According to a document I found online from Kansas State University there is a Locust borer in Kansas but they are much smaller and yellow and black (stripes, much like the Ash borer I see all the time). Honey Locust is common here (in the woods), and in the city thorn-less Locust are a common sight along neighborhood streets, but whether or not they are native is another story. In any case, I'm not certain exactly what kind of Locust this is (thorn-less) but I was somewhat disappointed in the size of the growth rings. By the same token, yeah, I'm gonna make handles out of this regardless. If they break, they break. We'll call it a learning experience but you guys are welcome to speculate on what you see here, maybe we can learn something that way as well.

locuststump1 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr

locuststump2 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
 
It kinda favors black locust in shape, but the bark should be thicker and rougher. Regardless, any locust is strong wood. With any hardwood besides hickory, the heartwood is the wood to use for handles, and it looks fine according to your pictures.
 
quinton said:
It kinda favors black locust in shape, but the bark should be thicker and rougher. . .
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Just to add (don't know the OP's location), here is a Black Locust from SW Michigan:

27865472281_c514d28c25_c.jpg


Trunk bark, leaves, and thorns are very distinctive.

Bob
 
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quinton said:
It kinda favors black locust in shape, but the bark should be thicker and rougher. Regardless, any locust is strong wood. With any hardwood besides hickory, the heartwood is the wood to use for handles, and it looks fine according to your pictures.
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Here's hoping so!

rjdankert said:
Just to add (don't know the OP's location), here is a Black Locust from SW Michigan:


Trunk bark, leaves, and thorns are very distinctive.

Bob
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Well your pics look like what I expected Black Locust to look like (just based on my searches in books and online) and I tried to find the small thorns but could not find any at all. The leaves however look the same. I'll see if I can get some pics of the ones that are still living.


EDIT for pic.

DSCF0024 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr


Starting to think this is a hybrid of some kind. I am reading some articles describing a "Sunburst" and "Shademaster" variety of Locust. I don't recall the leaves being yellow in the spring so I don't think it's the Sunburst.
 
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