Crosscut Saw Thread

Malus said:
Right, I should have known the handles weren't an indicator after reading this entire thread :rolleyes:. I will eventually get around to taking a stone to the saw and finding an etch. Obviously I've got some tools and knowledge to acquire if I'm going to get into this restoration, but it's good to know I have a nice candidate.
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What I've been using on my crosscut saw to remove most of the rust is a grinding wheel I got for 50 cents at a thrift store. It gets the bulk of it off and I plan on using a random orbit sander with some 220 and wet sand it to "polish it". I've done that on some handsaws and they turned out really well. Just find the etch before getting too rough and use some 220 on it initially to get the remaining rust mostly off then use worn 220 to really clean the area from the remaining light rust. Do not use the fresh 220 too much or it will start removing the etch. Ask me how I know....
 
A17 said:
What I've been using on my crosscut saw to remove most of the rust is a grinding wheel I got for 50 cents at a thrift store. It gets the bulk of it off and I plan on using a random orbit sander with some 220 and wet sand it to "polish it". I've done that on some handsaws and they turned out really well. Just find the etch before getting too rough and use some 220 on it initially to get the remaining rust mostly off then use worn 220 to really clean the area from the remaining light rust. Do not use the fresh 220 too much or it will start removing the etch. Ask me how I know....
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Thank you for the advice. I will update when I get a chance to work on it. Is the etch generally in the center of the blade, maybe sometimes on one end or the other near a handle?
 
ithinkverydeeply said:
Awesome! Thank you!! It would make sense that a NW Hardware store would have Warren manufacturing for them.
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Also on my Colonial bucking saw I have there is a diamond stamp on one end that looks like a Curtis saw mark. My guess is that Curtis Saw Company made many saws for in house store brand saws.
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Jim
 
Malus said:
Thank you for the advice. I will update when I get a chance to work on it. Is the etch generally in the center of the blade, maybe sometimes on one end or the other near a handle?
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I believe it is in the center.
 
Jim Thode said:
Also on my Colonial bucking saw I have there is a diamond stamp on one end that looks like a Curtis saw mark. My guess is that Curtis Saw Company made many saws for in house store brand saws.
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Jim
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That is an awesome saw Jim, thank you! I will follow up with you about it.
 
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Malus said:
This 60" Simonds No. 6 was hanging in my grandfather's barn. Looks to be in good shape with no damage to any teeth and I assume the original handles. Couldn't make out any etching, but there is a good bit of surface rust. Does anyone have any more information on the no. 6 or when they were made?
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I see traces of red paint on the end of your saw as well as three handle holes, the largest in the center. This is an indication of a Simonds Canada saw. Are you on the east coast? If a Simonds, possibly a #214 or a #325. Both are ground saws (214 is taper ground, 325 is crescent ground) which will have grind marks in line with the length of the blade. When you clean it, wet sand it only in the long direction of the blade to limit scratching.
 
trailtime said:
I see traces of red paint on the end of your saw as well as three handle holes, the largest in the center. This is an indication of a Simonds Canada saw. Are you on the east coast? If a Simonds, possibly a #214 or a #325. Both are ground saws (214 is taper ground, 325 is crescent ground) which will have grind marks in line with the length of the blade. When you clean it, wet sand it only in the long direction of the blade to limit scratching.
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You nailed it, I'm in New Brunswick. That is impressive detective work. I will get to wet sanding soon and report back.
 
Malus said:
You nailed it, I'm in New Brunswick. That is impressive detective work. I will get to wet sanding soon and report back.
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There are a variety of techniques for cleaning a blade. I usually start with 220 grit and wet the blade with WD-40. If I can't find an etch and the rust is heavier, I'll back down to 100g. The first sanding your slurry will be reddish brown, the second will be dark brown, and the third will be closer to black, indicating that you're starting to remove a little metal. That's where I stop. Keep some paper towels handy and wear rubber gloves, as the rust solution will stain your skin and stay under your fingernails for days.
 
ithinkverydeeply said:
Sorry to muck up the saw thread with axes but I think this might belong here.
I just picked it up this Bucker’s Axe today and I’m super excited to have scored it!

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It’s a Plumb. I’m surprised this is still 13” with how much work it’s seen.
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Nothing to apologize for there... totally saw related and totally freaking awesome! Did you find that at an antique shop or something like that?
 
phantomknives said:
Holy springboards batman. also in the last picture, they made M lance tooths? just above the hood of the car
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Huh! I guess so. I could ask him more about it...
Oddly enough I did not photo the majority of the springboards or the long wooden clamps you put saws in to sharpen them.
 
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