Dog Soldier 6 vs Alpha Dog 6

JACKMANDU said:
That’s cool! I need a bead blaster! I was gonna go to homedepot after work and grab a dremil kit with a bunch of attachments. Maybe I could get it done with that.
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A bead blasting cabinet is a great tool. We call it "the time machine". Old rusty parts go in, brand new looking parts come out. Lol!
 
clampdaddy said:
A bead blasting cabinet is a great tool. We call it "the time machine". Old rusty parts go in, brand new looking parts come out. Lol!
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I did a little research. My local powder coating shop, said they could blast it for me for $20. I imagine they could easily do it without doing any damage. I hope.
 
JACKMANDU said:
I did a little research. My local powder coating shop, said they could blast it for me for $20. I imagine they could easily do it without doing any damage. I hope.
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Yep. That res c is tougher than a two dollar steak. I blasted a tan handled BB13 and it didn't phase the material but the microscopic pieces of the black coating that were recirculated thru the system got pounded into the handle so it discolored it a little bit but with the black handle you'll be fine.
 
JACKMANDU said:
I ended up getting a dremel 3000 to finish off the DS6 strip project. The sandblast guy had too course of a media, I would have ended up sanding anyway. I’m pretty happy with it! Started with a wire wheel then worked my way down the sanding / polishing kit. View attachment 1133783 View attachment 1133784
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Da**! THAT looks NICE!
Already have a dremel.... now I see I'm going to have to do this to mine. And etch the name. i've tried over and over to do the electroetching, but it has never worked. I've gotten the PCB etching to work, and yours turned out great!

So, wire wheel to start? Well, after the stripper? The stainless wheel, or brass?
 
For the etching. I put those drops on the logo left it for roughly 45 min. Cleaned it with hot water toothbrush and soap. Then repeated about 8 Times. Did it about four times after work for 2 days.
 
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dogboye said:
Da**! THAT looks NICE!
Already have a dremel.... now I see I'm going to have to do this to mine. And etch the name. i've tried over and over to do the electroetching, but it has never worked. I've gotten the PCB etching to work, and yours turned out great!

So, wire wheel to start? Well, after the stripper? The stainless wheel, or brass?
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I used the stainless wheel. I went thru 2 of them. Probably because I pushed too hard at first. But be careful with the wire wheel. It will eat up the res-c. But you can run it right next to the res-c and get all the decarb. Just be careful.
 
I then went thru each wheel of this kit , finishing with the polish. View attachment 1133934
dogboye said:
Da**! THAT looks NICE!
Already have a dremel.... now I see I'm going to have to do this to mine. And etch the name. i've tried over and over to do the electroetching, but it has never worked. I've gotten the PCB etching to work, and yours turned out great!

So, wire wheel to start? Well, after the stripper? The stainless wheel, or brass?
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Nice. I think I have that specific kit, and one stainless brush wheel, or part of it.
I guess I better get to work on the etching today. :D

I wonder if a couple of layers of masking or painter's tape would help protect the Res-C. Probably couldn't hurt. At least would give you a slight warning before it started eating Res-C.

Thanks for the help. I'll try to post mine if I can get it to come out looking not like ****. :eek:
 
Tape is a good idea. Good luck man! I’ll be looking forward to the pics!
 
Well, put about 5 or 6 hours into the etching over the weekend. I THINK it is deeper. It's just so difficult to tell. I started getting impatient and leaving the etchant on longer. I think that was counterproductive, though. I think after it is on there 30 minutes or so, it needs to be refreshed. Like something in the solution is no longer working. Dunno.
 
dogboye said:
Well, put about 5 or 6 hours into the etching over the weekend. I THINK it is deeper. It's just so difficult to tell. I started getting impatient and leaving the etchant on longer. I think that was counterproductive, though. I think after it is on there 30 minutes or so, it needs to be refreshed. Like something in the solution is no longer working. Dunno.
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I was also unsure if I had gone deep enough. I took out another coated blade to compare the logos. The etched one was noticeable deeper. I was also worried to go too deep because the INFI letters are so fine. I didn’t want them to not look sharp.
 
Hmmmm .... yeah, I think I see what you mean. On mine that is. Maybe I’ll just stop now, and go ahead and strip. I mean, worst case, it isn’t any better that the others I’ve stripped, which I didn’t increase the etching...
 
That was the part of the stripping process, that I had to just trust that it was good. You only get one chance at etching it deep enough. I think if you can feel it with your fingernail, then it’s good. I wasn’t sure if it was deep enough, but it was.
 
Thanks Jackmandu. I can definitely feel it with my fingernail. So I guess it's good enough.
 
dogboye said:
Well, put about 5 or 6 hours into the etching over the weekend. I THINK it is deeper. It's just so difficult to tell. I started getting impatient and leaving the etchant on longer. I think that was counterproductive, though. I think after it is on there 30 minutes or so, it needs to be refreshed. Like something in the solution is no longer working. Dunno.
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When I do mine I seem to get the deepest etch by doing lots of short (15 minutes or so) applications and using a q-tip to scub off the blacked layer of steel at the end of each one, so the etchant can get a fresh bite on some clean steel.
 
Hmmmm.... maybe I should give it a couple more shots.
I was wiping clean and re-applying about every 30 minutes for about the first 4,maybe 6, applications. The another couple that I left for a couple hours (mainly because I forgot).
 
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