But also fracturing like that could be caused by the object being just plain too hard, which will give the blade no choice but to chip out, even if the HT is good.
Full Tang Full Shmang.
I haven't managed to break any of my handles off yet so I don't worry about the tang anymore.
I love my ASTK (#10) :thumbup:
For the most part i agree with your assessment, bladite. But also fracturing like that could be caused by the object being just plain too hard, which will give the blade no choice but to chip out, even if the HT is good. Usually we'd like to see some rolling first. Because javand's blade chipped in such a manner so readily was the reason it was decided that it was probably a brittle sweet spot.
When Auntie uses the term "Field Sharp" it is meant to describe a blade that is axe like sharp and not as sharp as it could be. It is not meant to imply or designate any blades fitness for "field usage". The only ones warranted for field usage are the ones listed.
As for why some of the larger and more robust khukuri and swords are not on the field usage list? It is probably because they are meant more for light usage or conversation pieces. It is also to keep costs down, as these are labor and material intensive pieces and are harder to replace. With the kami situation and resulting stock flux, this has been one of the hardest and leanest years H.I. has faced since the beginning. It has been a great struggle this year with almost everything, we are hoping that we can get the bugs worked out, make things a bit easier and hopefully bring things around for the better in the coming year.
It very well may have, but unless i take a whack at what he was chopping, i wouldnt know for sure. Auntie decided to err in favor of the customer this time, which is her prerogative.So it may have been the woods fault? Not a bad heat treat?
He clarified that he didnt think it was oak, but possibly 1 yr seasoned and well knotted hickory. Even at 2'' in diameter i would've thought twice about using a tamang on it and probably would have used an AK or CAK just to be on the safe side.Bladite said:a 2 inch oak branch doesn't really fall into that category in my mind.
It very well may have, but unless i take a whack at what he was chopping, i wouldnt know for sure. Auntie decided to err in favor of the customer this time, which is her prerogative.
He clarified that he didnt think it was oak, but possibly 1 yr seasoned and well knotted hickory. Even at 2'' in diameter i would've thought twice about using a tamang on it and probably would have used an AK or CAK just to be on the safe side.
So it may have been the woods fault? Not a bad heat treat?
Could've been a particlarly nasty knot that caused this also, knots are funny creatures that way. You may think they are nothing until they have you in submission. I've hit knots in softer woods with a splitting maul and had to go around them before.Actually no, I rechecked and it was red oak. Tree identification "ain't my forte" as they say, so I looked it up.
It is nearly a year on the ground though.
Could've been a particlarly nasty knot that caused this also, knots are funny creatures that way. You may think they are nothing until they have you in submission. I've hit knots in softer woods with a splitting maul and had to go around them before.
I was referring to the tamang model in general, which are usually thinner spined,lighter with a more acute bevel than most any of the warranted choppers. I don't recommend chopping with "general use" khukuri for a reason, although people do and the khukuri fare well at it. I implore all members to do research and ask questions before jumping in and excitedly buying their khukuri, so that instances such as this will not become a problem.
+1 to Bladite and HD.
Looks like heat treat. I've rolled my edge on my Bura CAK more than once, and was able to easily steel it back. From what I read before deciding on HI, this is what they were trying to achieve, is a knife that could be used hard, and the edge was easier to use the Chakma to steel out rolls than to sharpen out chips. Being field repairable was imperative.
Now, it may be due to the kamis being new, or it may be intentional, with them being told people were complaining about edge retention, and they may have been told to make the edges harder. For guys who's primary use of a blade is to get it to shave arm hair, that's great. For the rest of us that make trees pee a little when they see us coming, not so much.In the end, good on Yangdu for making it right.
There's no reason why one shouldn't expect both a shaving sharp edge and durability in their knives. Those two go hand-in-hand with a good heat treat.
+1 to Bladite and HD.Now, it may be due to the kamis being new, or it may be intentional, with them being told people were complaining about edge retention, and they may have been told to make the edges harder. For guys who's primary use of a blade is to get it to shave arm hair, that's great. For the rest of us that make trees pee a little when they see us coming, not so much.
In the end, good on Yangdu for making it right.
To further illustrate my point -- you can get a shaving edge with Busse's INFI steel, I really don't think anyone will say that he doesn't do a proper heat treat. it also outdoes most other knives in how long it will remain sharp in cutting things. Yet, when you chop really hard things, the edges roll, not chip.
So, I contend that an edge that prefers to roll, rather than chip is desireable for a user blade.
isn't that a rather ironic statement given that it's followed by a photo of a full tang khukri?
some few rat tails have broken, but that's not my concern so much as rehandling later (i find it easier for full tang), as well as balance.
plus i've got a MEAN chopping arm and i've split a few rat tail handles clean through. fixing them was a pain.
Bladite