It followed me home (Part 2)

ithinkverydeeply said:
One of the axe killers. I think the chain on it is pre-1951, if I’m not mistaken. It’s an ugly beast that looks small with a 2ft bar but weighs 60lbs dry!?!

I would not be ready to give up my axe if it meant carrying this thing all day...
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That things darn cool, I've always loved the 1950's Heritage Craftsman logo.
 
garry3 said:
Reminds me of those Forest King axes. Is that the right color of blue?
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It is the right color. I wire-wheeled it to hunt for a stamp but like usual, seems like good quality but no marks.

On the 28" handle it felt like something one could use, maybe even throw? The tongue didn't fill the eye but fashioning a shorter handle from a 36" one wouldn't be too hard.
 
Agent_H said:
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It is the right color. I wire-wheeled it to hunt for a stamp but like usual, seems like good quality but no marks.

On the 28" handle it felt like something one could use, maybe even throw? The tongue didn't fill the eye but fashioning a shorter handle from a 36" one wouldn't be too hard.
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It's a good find regardless of stamp. Little or no use just left out to get a little rust on it.:thumbsup:
 
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A big giant thank you to ithinkverydeeply for finding this plumb Puget sound for me!! I've been wanting one for a long time and it's one of the few axes you just can't find in Maine!
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I'm very, very pleased with it man, thank you! I bought some simple 16" log dogs to help me with hewing once it warms up a tad. And a nice ovb hammer on a nos craftsman handle.
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The PS axe had a nice haft in it but it didn't quite fill out the bottom of the eye. So I'm going to purchase some 6/4 red oak tomorrow and make a 42" haft for it. Have a great night!
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Yankee Josh said:
A big giant thank you to ithinkverydeeply for finding this plumb Puget sound for me!! I've been wanting one for a long time and it's one of the few axes you just can't find in Maine!
mEFZKIO.jpg

I'm very, very pleased with it man, thank you! I bought some simple 16" log dogs to help me with hewing once it warms up a tad. And a nice ovb hammer on a nos craftsman handle.
tkYVowM.jpg

View attachment 1100900
ELd2Kwn.jpg

The PS axe had a nice haft in it but it didn't quite fill out the bottom of the eye. So I'm going to purchase some 6/4 red oak tomorrow and make a 42" haft for it. Have a great night!
hG7FWPl.jpg
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Really glad you are so pleased. I’m vicariously sharing in your excitement!
 
ithinkverydeeply said:
Really glad you are so pleased. I’m vicariously sharing in your excitement!
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More than vicarious! You were an integral part of it!
Agent_H said:
That is a nice looking Puget Sound!
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Thank you! It was filed by a pro at some point in its life too. One bit keen and the other one stunt. 15539112611882807540790985064482.jpg 15539113711403474938759778539479.jpg
I'll just put a micro bevel on each bit to get rid of the nicks and get her wicked shaaap. Haha.
 
Yankee Josh said:
More than vicarious! You were an integral part of it!

Thank you! It was filed by a pro at some point in its life too. One bit keen and the other one stunt. View attachment 1100946 View attachment 1100947
I'll just put a micro bevel on each bit to get rid of the nicks and get her wicked shaaap. Haha.
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Cool! I noticed they were nicely ground but didn’t notice the difference.
 
Yankee Josh said:
I bought some simple 16" log dogs to help me with hewing once it warms up a tad. And a nice ovb hammer on a nos craftsman handle.
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I don't doubt those will serve you adequately. But you should know that traditional log dog have the tips turned 90° from each other. That is, one tip as your dogs are and the other tip turned in line with the length fo the dog. The parallel end is set first. The dog pivots on this point while you drive the other point home. Then you give the first point another whack or two.

Really top notch dogs are riveted together just above the parallel end so that it pivots there. The parallel end is driven solid. Then the other end is pivoted down and driven solid.

When lacking a pair of log dogs one can make do the a short 2x4 and a couple 16 penny nails.
 
Square_peg said:
The dog pivots on this point while you drive the other point home. Then you give the first point another whack or two.
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Very interesting, if I get what you are going on about. By parallel end do you mean the end hammered into the stem? In that case I can see that setting this end first could help strengthen the grip. I always did the opposite with the thought that anchoring first in the support and then in the stem draws the two points together, but your suggestion also has a certain logic. I'm going to try that way out next time because there are many not obvious subtitles to using these log dogs. Though you have lost me here,
Square_peg said:
Really top notch dogs are riveted together just above the parallel end so that it pivots there. The parallel end is driven solid. Then the other end is pivoted down and driven solid.
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Can you show a version of this, top notch dog which is riveted?
 
Square_peg said:
I don't doubt those will serve you adequately. But you should know that traditional log dog have the tips turned 90° from each other. That is, one tip as your dogs are and the other tip turned in line with the length fo the dog. The parallel end is set first. The dog pivots on this point while you drive the other point home. Then you give the first point another whack or two.

Really top notch dogs are riveted together just above the parallel end so that it pivots there. The parallel end is driven solid. Then the other end is pivoted down and driven solid.

When lacking a pair of log dogs one can make do the a short 2x4 and a couple 16 penny nails.
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Thank you for pointing that out. I noticed that most of the old ones I saw around online did pivot. But in every case they were advertised as "articulating log dogs". So I just assumed that there was such a thing as "fixed" log dogs.
Last year I used a couple pieces of pine and 16p spikes as you just suggested. These should still work for me though I think? I paid $30 for the set so I'm not out much if they don't work.
 
Thank you for providing these examples YJ it's new to me and they certainly would give the advantage of eliminating the need for releasing the anchor end time and again saving wear on the support, not an insignificant consideration by any means, it's a constant irritation for me knowing that my beam is getting chewed up by repeatedly re-setting dogs. Still, I like moving the dogs from side to side leaving the timber orientation undisturbed when cutting the first two sides and this method seems to suggest the dog gets released from the timber leaving them stationary and turning the timber instead. Another trade-off is a less secure or solid hold on the stem with the chance they could work themselves loose during operation.
When you find your log dogs as they cut across the grain - you rely in that case on the very weakest hold - cause excessive wear to your set-up, you might consider how a simple pointed version instead of the bladed one might work out.
 
Ernest DuBois said:
Thank you for providing these examples YJ it's new to me and they certainly would give the advantage of eliminating the need for releasing the anchor end time and again saving wear on the support, not an insignificant consideration by any means, it's a constant irritation for me knowing that my beam is getting chewed up by repeatedly re-setting dogs. Still, I like moving the dogs from side to side leaving the timber orientation undisturbed when cutting the first two sides and this method seems to suggest the dog gets released from the timber leaving them stationary and turning the timber instead. Another trade-off is a less secure or solid hold on the stem with the chance they could work themselves loose during operation.
When you find your log dogs as they cut across the grain - you rely in that case on the very weakest hold - cause excessive wear to your set-up, you might consider how a simple pointed version instead of the bladed one might work out.
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I don't know I just assumed those were what he was talking about. Maybe I'm wrong about it. It'll be good to hear him chime in to see if that's what he meant.
With all your experience i'm truly surprised you haven't heard of them or used them before! I just wasn't sure what to get. After all there's no better way to learn than making a mistake. I can't wait to try them out. Also I'll be giving the new edge on my broad axe a run too. I tried hewing a very knotty spruce and rolled the edge in a couple places.
I just went to the lumber yard and brought home some red oak. 2"x4"x10'. It was 50 bucks. 20190330_101245.jpg
They had one piece that had perfect grain orientation but the growth rings were really far apart. This one was quite a bit denser and it's very straight grained. Gonna be a 42" haft for the plumb Puget sound. 20190330_101259.jpg
 
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Thanks for bringing up this discussion on log-dogs,and those photos of old ones,Josh.
Curious that in a few of these one can see sections of hex-,or octagonal stock.
In the 19th c. an early code of sorts have developed where Temperable,mid-/ or high-carbon steel came in a faceted bar(that's the reason crowbars and such as well as cold-chisels today come faceted,they used to be forged out of,obviously,temperable steel).
Hard to say wether dogs were actually heat-treated,but it appears like the provision for it was there...
 
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