Lets see your Cold Steel mods!!!

Now let's turn the page with a "little" budget offering from Cold Steel, the much loved Voyager. Similar to my previous Tanto turned drop point (which I gave away, hence the need for a new one) I have modded this time the clip point, since it is already flat ground. But note it is thinner behind the edge now, as well as having a useable "finger choil" and a kydex wave, and being lighter and faster overall.

IMG_5968.JPG
IMG_5969.JPG
IMG_5970.JPG
IMG_5971.JPG
 
David Mary said:
@hermit dave
AF AF

I have a hobby of buying and modding knives, and few are more enjoyable to do so with than Cold steels. I have been thinking about buying a Broken Skull, but with our freshly announced virus layoff, I feel it would be irresponsible, at least at this time. But if I were made of money, I'd buy two (with blue G10, but when I first copy and pasted the image I thought I would want white - but it's too hard to keep clean and blue is more socially acceptable), I would do this to them:

View attachment 1306557

View attachment 1306574

The wharncliffe would get an aftermarket deep carry clip.
Click to expand...
The wharncliff looks awesome! I think you can do the same wharnie mod with a tanto Air Lite too, it should look
 
Thanks!

And I just noticed I mistyped. It is an Espada, not a Talwar.
 
This Carbon V Ventura Ca Trailmaster had a gnawed handle when I got it.

HQ2a0gy.jpg


It is gonna work much better with this new leather and maple handle
UY9IPsi.jpg


Fd5VopV.jpg

all sharpened up and ready for.....
jBRhi7b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Greetings folks, hope everyone is keeping well out there during this trying time! I picked up the new Cold Steel Drop Forge Survivalist recently and like this version better with the G10 inlay they now have, it is very grippy texture. I did a cotton cord wrap on mine to add to the grip, will see how it handles...pun intended ;)

But the loose type belt loop they provide is less than stellar, so this time round I came up with the idea of including a strap that comes around from the back piece to add a bit more security, as the sheath does retain the knife pretty good, it could come free and this large and sharp a knife it would not be a fun thing to have happen.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

and the texture is very good on that G10, little spike like things on the surface.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Copper rivet is peened over, I used some mink oil between the leather to help it swivel easier, the belt loop is glued together at the bottom where the rivet goes through making it a stronger belt loop attachment.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr


Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr



While it looks simple enough, it did take a bit of time to make and fitup all the pieces on this, but the end results are great, when you go to sit down you can swing the sheath up easily out of your way.

G2
 
I added a sharpening notch on the AK-47 and round the edge on the inside edge of my Bush Ranger with some 220 sandpaper.I also beveled away the sharp edges on the lockbar.The BR now is a lot more comfortable to hold now as it no longer has sharp edge biting my hand.

6ObIZfc.jpg


YbRcgUG.jpg
 
Last edited:
MattKnives said:
AYmbM4R.jpg
QeReLR5dWKnHHDT78

Took some time yesterday to sand down the scales till they were smooth and then dyed them Navy Blue. I also took a diamond file to the massive gimping to smooth out the sharp edges.
Click to expand...

How did you get the scales off to sand it down? I’m contemplating doing this exact same thing. I watched the Shabazz video on disassembly but he does not take off the scales because he is just cleaning out the action. Was this difficult? I’m putting some serious thought into doing this.
 
razorburn said:
I also beveled away the sharp edges on the lockbar.
Click to expand...

It's funny how many knives there are with lockbars that are literally a pain to actuate, especially multiple times in a few minutes. For me it has especially been the Police 4, and my blue G10 Large Talwar. I did the same to them. But of course, the problem one might encounter when beveling or rounding the edges of the lock bar, especially if one has also knocked off the corners of the underside of the scales, is the knife may tend to want to twist or roll in the hand when trying to disengage the lock, unless one is more deliberate about hand position. Of course, that's probably more relevant for one handed closing, where your index finger intercepts the kick, but from what I've seen it looks like the Bush Ranger is more of a two handed closer unless you want to get bitten.
 
David Mary said:
It's funny how many knives there are with lockbars that are literally a pain to actuate, especially multiple times in a few minutes. For me it has especially been the Police 4, and my blue G10 Large Talwar. I did the same to them. But of course, the problem one might encounter when beveling or rounding the edges of the lock bar, especially if one has also knocked off the corners of the underside of the scales, is the knife may tend to want to twist or roll in the hand when trying to disengage the lock, unless one is more deliberate about hand position. Of course, that's probably more relevant for one handed closing, where your index finger intercepts the kick, but from what I've seen it looks like the Bush Ranger is more of a two handed closer unless you want to get bitten.
Click to expand...

My overall impression of the bush ranger is not all that great.On top of the sharp edge on the handle and lockbar, is a really dull edge.I wouldn't see a person picking this up at a brick and mortar store and leaving with it.Of all the CS Triad folders this knife is the only one with a sharp edged burred lockbar.Also the blade's spine from what I understand is deliberately left sharp for fire steel use.

I still don't have it exactly perfect.There are still a few sharp edge on the handle and I want to buff up the lockbar a bit.
 
Last edited:
IMG-20200406-223210193.jpg


I have owned the True Flight Thrower for some years now. I never intended to use it as a thrower. Instead, I looked at it as a budget beater fixed blade. The TFT has a 5mm spine, which is double that of the Bushman. I always thought this makes the TFT a tougher blade that is better for splitting wood. A knife this size qualifies for consideration as a one-tool option. To help make this a more well rounded knife, I put an edge on the very generous ricasso on the TFT (I can't stand that much waste of good steel). All I have is a file and stone, so extending the hollow grind is not really an option for me. Instead, I made it a Scandi grind. It took a couple of hours to remove that steel by hand, thank goodness the 1055 is easy to work. In practice, the abrupt transition probably needs to be smoothed out for a better wood carving experience. I'm glad I tried the mod, though.
 
:eek: I have a hard time looking at dismemberment pics... ;)
 
That is really cool!

Just out of curiosity, have you thought about rounding the thumb plate into a disk? They used to snag for me when opening sometimes, and get stuck half open and half in the pocket. Not good. Turned them into (kind of oval shaped) disks and the problem hasn't recurred.
 
David Mary said:
That is really cool!

Just out of curiosity, have you thought about rounding the thumb plate into a disk? They used to snag for me when opening sometimes, and get stuck half open and half in the pocket. Not good. Turned them into (kind of oval shaped) disks and the problem hasn't recurred.
Click to expand...
Nah, I would just cut a new one out of some sheet and toss the stock one in the box with the other clip if anything.

But it actually waves open quite reliably after opening up the notch that tiny bit...made a huge difference, and the corners seem MORE forgiving of angle in relation to the seam than a disk now.
 
I did one that I'd like to post but I'm having trouble with imgur working properly.

Roach Belly. Acid stonewashed, G10 guard, Tasmanian Blackwood, titanium pin.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top