Let's see your Scout/Camp knives

Nice one! I look forward to see what you find about blade steel.
I would use -KMnO4
Potassium permanganate
I believe its what they treat the stag with initially to sanitize it. Works great to swab on and darken stag.

Wow. I took your advice and tried the potassium permanganate this morning. The mark side is darkened now, and looks absolutely gorgeous. A night and day difference. Thank you so much for the advice!!!

0LNvv0Qh.jpg
 
Wow, that did make a huge difference. They're much more matched now. I really like that scout. Where exactly did you find the chemical? I believe I've got one or two I'd like to try that on myself. And I am also curious what it would do to bone. Were you able to determine the blade steel?
 
I bought a small 1.5 oz bottle off of the big auction site. It’s cheap. Just $4.99 shipped. I mixed a teaspoon full into a half cup of hot water, and swabbed it on with a q-tip. Definitely wear gloves.

I sharpened the knife this morning, and I’m pretty sure it’s 154CM. It took a while to sharpen. I ended up reprofiling the blade on diamond hones , after my India stone was taking far too long.

The bummer is the thickness behind the edge on the main blade. I measured it on my digital calipers this morning, and it ranged from .035” to .038”, the same as my micarta Premium Scout. That’s pretty darned thick for a slipjoint. The standard 440a blade on a Camillus stainless steel scout is already a bit thick at .025” to .028”. Both are thick in comparison to the old WW2 Camillus engineers knives, which run about .018” to .025”.
 
Wow. I took your advice and tried the potassium permanganate this morning. The mark side is darkened now, and looks absolutely gorgeous. A night and day difference. Thank you so much for the advice!!!

0LNvv0Qh.jpg
Oh yeah, that looks great! You did a fine job! I'm glad it worked out.:thumbsup:
 
I bought a small 1.5 oz bottle off of the big auction site. It’s cheap. Just $4.99 shipped. I mixed a teaspoon full into a half cup of hot water, and swabbed it on with a q-tip. Definitely wear gloves.

I sharpened the knife this morning, and I’m pretty sure it’s 154CM. It took a while to sharpen. I ended up reprofiling the blade on diamond hones , after my India stone was taking far too long.

The bummer is the thickness behind the edge on the main blade. I measured it on my digital calipers this morning, and it ranged from .035” to .038”, the same as my micarta Premium Scout. That’s pretty darned thick for a slipjoint. The standard 440a blade on a Camillus stainless steel scout is already a bit thick at .025” to .028”. Both are thick in comparison to the old WW2 Camillus engineers knives, which run about .018” to .025”.

Thank you Buzz, I'll have to look and find me some. Hopefully my experiments will come out as nice as yours. You've now got me curious also about the thickness on my scout knives. Got to get those calipers out!
 
Great looking A.G. Russell, especially after you dyed the cover. I had my Remington R4 in my pocket today as I had lunch with a friend who used to work for Remington. John
 
My first new Scout/Camp knife of 2018 is a Böker Magnum, Model OM1B334. :)
Allegedly Rosewood covers, but they are as solid black as Ebony or Buffalo horn.
A couple minor gaps between the liners and back springs on the bail end, but no other gaps.
The spear point blade is arm hair shaving sharp out of the tin box.
The description said "440C" for all the blades, then later "440 Stainless".
The spear point has "440A" on the pile side tang stamp. Kind of disappointing, but I can live with 440A. Besides, at under $20, I was not really expecting 440C.
The screwdriver/cap lifter needed pliers to get it open, but a bit of cleaning and working it has made it a lot better. I can open it without pliers or a coin now.
Over-all, a good knife, and one that I will be carrying. :)
 
My first new Scout/Camp knife of 2018 is a Böker Magnum, Model OM1B334. :)
Allegedly Rosewood covers, but they are as solid black as Ebony or Buffalo horn.
A couple minor gaps between the liners and back springs on the bail end, but no other gaps.
The spear point blade is arm hair shaving sharp out of the tin box.
The description said "440C" for all the blades, then later "440 Stainless".
The spear point has "440A" on the pile side tang stamp. Kind of disappointing, but I can live with 440A. Besides, at under $20, I was not really expecting 440C.
The screwdriver/cap lifter needed pliers to get it open, but a bit of cleaning and working it has made it a lot better. I can open it without pliers or a coin now.
Over-all, a good knife, and one that I will be carrying. :)
A friend picked up one, and they are pretty nice. The covers on his are a dark brown. I certainly like the utilitarian look of brushed stainless and wood without a shield on these, very purposeful rather than gaudy.
I think that somewhat stiffer springs when new is actually a good thing in the long run, especially on a knife that will be used a lot.
 
Kevin, that Ulster scout is beautiful. I wish the jigging on my "MD" scout was as sharp as yours. I recently picked this up and functionally it's in great shape and not too bad aesthetically as well. Unfortunately somebody did touch it with some sandpaper here and there but overall I'm very happy with it.IMG_2805.PNG IMG_2807.PNG
 
A friend picked up one, and they are pretty nice. The covers on his are a dark brown. I certainly like the utilitarian look of brushed stainless and wood without a shield on these, very purposeful rather than gaudy.
I think that somewhat stiffer springs when new is actually a good thing in the long run, especially on a knife that will be used a lot.
Wazamatta "gaudy"? :p
 
Wazamatta "gaudy"?
On a lot of the other Asian manufactured knives, the shields seem out of place (often not in the spirit of the scout knives they imitate) and are not well executed, looking gaudy cheesy, cheap or tacky. The Boker is a bit better to my eye by omitting the shield.
 
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