Neatsfoot Oil

Thanks Dave and it is tricky to get that one right.

Made a horizontal sheath for a different back pocket knife, and this time he selected the Army embossing stamp, it has a slight angle to it to match the angle of the belt loop, so when you wear it, it is vertical.

The oil is still settling on this still when I brushed it on I did brush into the sheath but not all the way inside, so the entrance had a bit more oil than the rest of the sheath, even if it doesn't quite level out, I think the subtle shading of the oil makes a nice look.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

I was worried to make a horizontal and use the neatsfoot oil as the top section has to be done, well at least the one side has to be trimmed down to the finished level, there is a top formed layer that is glued down to another layer, then holes punched in for stitching and the one side towards the belt loop top is trimmed and finished off as then I glue those two pieces to yet one more that forms the belt loop, so it has to be a done portion at that time. But it worked out well and looks great, to me at least :)
G2
 
And another one with the same treatment for a nice auto Buck 110, something that probably wouldn't ride loose in the pocket very well, pretty strong spring on this one.

IMG_6329 by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

With this one on the second timing of the sheath in the oven, when you flip it over, I sat a small glass dish of the neatsfoot oil in there too so it would be warm when I took the sheath out...
note to self, glass is hot after spending time in 170 degree oven ;)

G2
 
Hey Gary, nice sheath. I'm also looking for a horiz carry sheath for my 110. Unfortunately, I don't know how to contact you. Could you please email me at: freilich@comcast.net
Or, if anybody has contact info for Gary, please post up here or email me directly.
Thanks
 
Got your email and responded, thanks,
G2
 
Lenny's sheath finished up today, he asked to have it made so he could cross draw it with his right hand and have the blade down, the contours of the knife are such that the sheath will retain this knife very securely.

After forming the top section and gluing it down to the middle layer, I hammer in the stitching holes and then cut the top portion to it's proper size and finish the edging as once it is glued down to the third layer you can't get at that area. Then hammer through the holes around the sheath again to get through that middle layer and start hand stitching around, using the Tiger thread 1.2mm I would like to find some 1.4 to at least give that a try one day.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

His knife is a Custom version Buck 110 from the custom shoppe, very nice folder !

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Marks on the bolsters were there from the git go, but as he says it will be a working folder, he wasn't too concerned.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

G2
 
Very cool G2! That oil just gives a classy look to good leather.
 
Thanks Dave and I think you touched on a very key ingredient “Good” leather!
That’s from Wickett and Craig
G2
 
Wow I am so intrigued reading about your folks great leatherwork! Your in depth posts helps me a lot to learn and get better, so I appreciate your time! One question: for knifes like this and small fixed blades what do you prefer for leather thickness? Ive been using 8-9oz for my 9" overall fixed blades but just ordered my first 6-7oz.. I was getting the feeling of it being too thick and sturdy as well as having a welt that was too thick..
 
There are a lot of good guys on this forum, amazing workmanship, Paul Long @sheathmaker, Dave Ferry Horsewright Horsewright , Dwayne Puckett @leatherman and many more folks...

Myself, I do not make fixed blade sheaths as the leather I get is in the 6/7 oz and 7/8 oz thickness and I would prefer that for fixed blade sheaths to be more in the 8/9 oz at least.
But some do use thinner with great success.

G2
 
I use 7/8 oz for the vast majority of my sheaths. Once I start getting in the 9-10" oal area I start using 8/10oz.
 
Nope, the process is done once the sheath has been fully made, all stitched up. And I only apply the neatsfoot oil on the outside of the sheath once it has sat in the oven to bring it up to temp.
G2
 
I recently picked up a very nice knife from @knifeswapper it is his line of knives from Lionsteel this one is called the Bolus and has nice stag scales and an m390 blade that is just shy of 3" long. The bobtail fob I made I found a crusader's cross bead that is pretty nice, not cheap but looked good. It is solid and that made me wonder how it would work as an embossing stamp, turns out just dandy! So here is my first of 2019 sheaths, one for myself and also using the neatsfoot oil method.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

here is a test to see how well it would emboss

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

fairly clean impression

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

after forming and then embossing

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

and ready to slip onto the belt

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

G2
 
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