Here are three Salesmanās Sample Schrade Cuts covered in stag. I recently was able to acquire these and two other
curved tang stamp Schrades (photos coming) out of an old collection. From top a regular Jack 3 & 1/2 inches, middle an equal end Jack 3 & 5/8 inches and finally a congress pattern 3 & 1/2 inches. The two Jacks have crocus mirror polished primary mark
side blades all other blades glaze polished while the Congress has all blade surfaces crocus mirror polished. Never sharpened
post production.
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Hi BarbababaEarly 1960s EKA
Itās referred to as āraderbladā wich translates to āerase bladeā. From what I have read it was used to erase when writing in ink. I use it to release vacuum on jelly jars when they get stuckHi Barbababa
What's the idea behind the design of the uppermost blade?
Lovely knife!
As an old teacher of mine once said, "there's no silly questions if ears are open for answers".Itās referred to as āraderbladā wich translates to āerase bladeā. From what I have read it was used to erase when writing in ink. I use it to release vacuum on jelly jars when they get stuck
I checked the blade well and there is one pin visible. I will have to do some investigating. Thank you for your suggestion and recomendation.Nice Remington T thedonald just thing one thing, I canāt see Remington letting that go outside.
It would not have passed QC - probably not even got to QC, so thatās a bit of a mystery.
Either that or it may have had a Shield that was lost- and a poor replacement but with Remington the Shields should be pinned- so ??
The only other way of really looking hard at the Knife is find a Remington Catalogue with that Jack in it, and have a really good look at that knife and do a comparison.
Shields usually have one pin. I'll bet you have a replacement!! Still a great knife!!I checked the blade well and there is one pin visible. I will have to do some investigating. Thank you for your suggestion and recomendation.
I read my list this morning and kinda slapped myself- it sounded like I was critical of your knife- Iām not by any means, like Charlie says itās a nice Knife!I checked the blade well and there is one pin visible. I will have to do some investigating. Thank you for your suggestion and recomendation.
Did not take this a criticism at all. I value each of your opinions. That is why i posted this knife. I am in love with this particular knife, as it hardly looks used, relatively full blades and the old bone handles are awesome. Thank you both again for waying in with your insight and wisdom.I read my list this morning and kinda slapped myself- it sounded like I was critical of your knife- Iām not by any means, like Charlie says itās a nice Knife!
I should have worded it better and please accept my apologies - Remington make stunning knives as yours is, It seems a little of a mystery why the gaps of the Shield are there.
I too would have picked that knife up in a hurry as well if I had seen it for sale!
I think that knife's a little newish to have an ink eraser blade. It looks to me more like a form of can opener.Itās referred to as āraderbladā wich translates to āerase bladeā. From what I have read it was used to erase when writing in ink. I use it to release vacuum on jelly jars when they get stuck
I have actually just sent an email to EKA with the question of both the age of the knife and usage of those blades. It looks like a watch opener knife with bevel on only one side, but they are refered to as "raderblad". The model is named 118 and was in the 1933 EKA catalogue and was produced for a long time with basicly the same tools but with different handles. I have one more but without the nickel silver bolsters and carbon steel.I think that knife's a little newish to have an ink eraser blade. It looks to me more like a form of can opener.
I'm a craftsman, but not a knife maker. I've patched wood, bone, and mother of pearl, and I once replaced covers entirely in epoxy with some powdered pigment mixed in. I wouldn't recommend trying to repair celluloid, and while I'm no chemist, I think mixing acetone and celluloid sounds like a bad idea. It can be volatile stuff.r8shell as a knifemaker and craftsman, may I ask if you have ever repaired or filled out cracks and cuts in celluloide? I have just started a acetone and celluloid shavings to try to make some glue/filler. I have tried UHU Hart glue before but wanted to try to make my own colour mixture Any tips are welcome
Please post their reply when you hear from them.I have actually just sent an email to EKA with the question of both the age of the knife and usage of those blades. It looks like a watch opener knife with bevel on only one side, but they are refered to as "raderblad". The model is named 118 and was in the 1933 EKA catalogue and was produced for a long time with basicly the same tools but with different handles. I have one more but without the nickel silver bolsters and carbon steel.
Unfortunately the back spring for the tools are broken, but the knifes and owl are workable
I forgot to link this https://newpentrace.net/articleGT02.htmlI'm a craftsman, but not a knife maker. I've patched wood, bone, and mother of pearl, and I once replaced covers entirely in epoxy with some powdered pigment mixed in. I wouldn't recommend trying to repair celluloid, and while I'm no chemist, I think mixing acetone and celluloid sounds like a bad idea. It can be volatile stuff.
I would recommend removing the cell covers entirely and replacing with something else.
Further reading: