Poll: How much would you be willing to pay...?

How much would you be willing to pay for a CPK obstacle course style cutting competition blade?

  • Total voters
    83
Considering what we are talking about here in regards to size, labor, materials I would think 1k is a fair price.
That being said, even though I would like to own something like this I probably wouldn't buy one.
It's not something I could really see myself using and the reality of my finances suck:D
For now my LC and EDC work just fine:thumbsup: (I still lust after a BC and KCC)
Cheers
 
I'd pay at least $1000 for one of these, my only concern is how to save to make it happen, I also worry if Nathan has the equipment to make it happen.
 
Mike nailed it, here.

Despite not using the same methods to make a knife, I think I have enough insight into making blades in the alloys we’re talking about to offer my input.

CPM-4v/Vanadis4Extra, and to a lesser extent CPM3v are expensive to work with, and it’s not the steel that’s expensive, it’s the abrasives (and perhaps cutting tools? dunno. have to ask Nathan about increased carbide cutter wear, here). These steels eat grinding belts, and even though Nathan does the bull work with endmills, you still have to eliminate tool marks with belts - they don’t tumble out. I believe Nathan and crew are also setting the final geometry with belts.

Belts are REALLY expensive.

REALLY REALLY REALLY expensive. And with these alloys, they last seconds before they’re shot.

No, that’s not a typo or an exaggeration.

To provide an example, I prefer using 3m 707e ceramic belts for 220 grit. They’re one of the few belts that cut with any consistency with high vanadium steels. They’re $6 each, and I usually need to use a few on a 5” kwaiken with a 1” high primary bevel. That’s to get a clean 220 grit finish on a relatively small blade, with a short blade height.

Just winging it here, but I’ll wager an 18” blade with around a 2-1/2” height would double the number of belts needed to finish the primary bevel compared to the competition choppers, which I’ll also go out on a limb and guess used a record number of belts to finish.

This doesn’t speak to the fact that it takes TIME to use these belts to apply these finishes.


I’m not sure I see how it could be done in the poll’s specified range. Just my two cents. :)




Mike157 said:
A CPK design, in delta 3V, of a similar style or maybe slightly smaller, even though made in a larger quantity, should also bring a reasonable price for the amount of work that would go into it. Unless we’re talking a slightly modified Behemoth, I think $1000 is too low, to be fair. The competition cutters at $700 were an incredible, incredible, value.

I know these prices are out of range for many, so I don’t mean to come off as all hoity-toity, but in all fairness to CPK, yes, I’d pay $1000 and significantly upwards for a design that drew me in. Mike
Click to expand...
 
I said $600 because that’s what I might be able to pull off. I also know it’s not a realistic number. I expect something like this would be worth significantly more. It’s sounds like a really fun concept but probably not something I would be able to add to my line up.
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Mike nailed it, here.

Despite not using the same methods to make a knife, I think I have enough insight into making blades in the alloys we’re talking about to offer my input.

CPM-4v/Vanadis4Extra, and to a lesser extent CPM3v are expensive to work with, and it’s not the steel that’s expensive, it’s the abrasives (and perhaps cutting tools? dunno. have to ask Nathan about increased carbide cutter wear, here). These steels eat grinding belts, and even though Nathan does the bull work with endmills, you still have to eliminate tool marks with belts - they don’t tumble out. I believe Nathan and crew are also setting the final geometry with belts.

Belts are REALLY expensive.

REALLY REALLY REALLY expensive. And with these alloys, they last seconds before they’re shot.

No, that’s not a typo or an exaggeration.

To provide an example, I prefer using 3m 707e ceramic belts for 220 grit. They’re one of the few belts that cut with any consistency with high vanadium steels. They’re $6 each, and I usually need to use a few on a 5” kwaiken with a 1” high primary bevel. That’s to get a clean 220 grit finish on a relatively small blade, with a short blade height.

Just winging it here, but I’ll wager an 18” blade with around a 2-1/2” height would double the number of belts needed to finish the primary bevel compared to the competition choppers, which I’ll also go out on a limb and guess used a record number of belts to finish.

This doesn’t speak to the fact that it takes TIME to use these belts to apply these finishes.


I’m not sure I see how it could be done in the poll’s specified range. Just my two cents. :)
Click to expand...
Excellent Information-Thank You:thumbsup: I also suspected a $1,000 max number was way too Low :thumbsup: I would also think the "Evil Genius" has a Plan, or has at the least Thought thru the process in which he could make this Happen-Available (As usual i reserve the right to be wrong:()I expect to pay a Premium for this knife, sword, etc if it is too my liking
(and I am pretty sure it will be). Niche item yes, (So is the Shiv and to a lesser extent the UF). Most of the time (75%) I prefer a well made Practical Knife, But there is that 25% when I really like an overbuilt, Powerful, dare I say somewhat radical, or Niche knife:p
Fun Fact: I enjoy swinging a large Blade in my garage while listening to Iron Butterflies (In A Gadda Da Vida) :eek: Yes i have issues, but I am learning to live with them
The Double edge makes me want it even more. If you (Nathan), can make it happen, I am IN;)
EDIT: Please give me a 2 or 3 month "Heads UP" on the KOD Knife, I am presently in negotiations to get my Street Corner Position reinstated:eek:
 
Last edited:
TommyGun56 said:
EDIT: Please give me a 2 or 3 month "Heads UP" on the KOD Knife, I am presently in negotiations to get my Street Corner Position reinstated:eek:
Click to expand...
That territory is already under new management, poaching Johns there will only result in you getting your pretty face cut. You are relegated to where you started your career, the three feet between the dumpster and the back of the building behind the truck stop.
 
Bob's and Mike's concerns plus Mr. Gregory's more detailed insight being very valid, I still believe in Nathan's magical and supernatural abilities. Two words:

Abracadabra & then Voila!!! Jo, please send us them INVOICES :)
 
Grenock said:
That territory is already under new management, poaching Johns there will only result in you getting your pretty face cut. You are relegated to where you started your career, the three feet between the dumpster and the back of the building behind the truck stop.
Click to expand...
Guess your right, that is where I fell most comfortable and "at Home":p But I know a guy, "Who knows a guy":D
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Mike nailed it, here.

Despite not using the same methods to make a knife, I think I have enough insight into making blades in the alloys we’re talking about to offer my input.

CPM-4v/Vanadis4Extra, and to a lesser extent CPM3v are expensive to work with, and it’s not the steel that’s expensive, it’s the abrasives (and perhaps cutting tools? dunno. have to ask Nathan about increased carbide cutter wear, here). These steels eat grinding belts, and even though Nathan does the bull work with endmills, you still have to eliminate tool marks with belts - they don’t tumble out. I believe Nathan and crew are also setting the final geometry with belts.

Belts are REALLY expensive.

REALLY REALLY REALLY expensive. And with these alloys, they last seconds before they’re shot.

No, that’s not a typo or an exaggeration.

To provide an example, I prefer using 3m 707e ceramic belts for 220 grit. They’re one of the few belts that cut with any consistency with high vanadium steels. They’re $6 each, and I usually need to use a few on a 5” kwaiken with a 1” high primary bevel. That’s to get a clean 220 grit finish on a relatively small blade, with a short blade height.

Just winging it here, but I’ll wager an 18” blade with around a 2-1/2” height would double the number of belts needed to finish the primary bevel compared to the competition choppers, which I’ll also go out on a limb and guess used a record number of belts to finish.

This doesn’t speak to the fact that it takes TIME to use these belts to apply these finishes.


I’m not sure I see how it could be done in the poll’s specified range. Just my two cents. :)
Click to expand...



The belt consumption and grind time on the Comp Choppers is the most obscene I've ever seen. Tall grind, very hard V4E. I start with a 50 grit Blaze. You know what that means. I work in batches of five and when I'm done there are bags full of belts.

Most of the choppers start with a 3M 120 ceramic, then 220 and 240 ceramics and 320 AO (multiples of each per blade) and we hit the plunge with 400 because that area tumbles slow and these steels erode very slowly. We use dykem between grits so flaws will show before moving to the next grit. It's actually a little insane, the grinding required on these "machined" knives, but it's important to reduce sticking and get the geometry right. We go to that level on the EDC also because it's intended to be a very nice everyday carry. But when we do the upcoming Field Knife we're going to go back to the original concept of machine and tumble (what I used to do), no grind, to get back to similar price levels as the original. The thinking being, it's an affordable hard use utility field knife. Since we've upgraded from the pig to a goddamn Mori Seiki the machined finish is pretty good. But this big knife we're talking about, it prolly ought to be ground into the S grind, so yeah, lots of belts per blade.
 
Unfortunately I havent Read all(none) the post yet but I think 1k would be too little for a long blade of any steel. Never mind the expensive 3v. I would Think 2k just going by the work and price that’s in the other Carothers out there. 20” blade is a lot of work. I dont Think it can be all done on some Cnc machine. Just my .02
 
Milling a 12" bevel is about the limit of my current approach (fixturing technique) but the limit to what I can actually cut is about three feet, though that's one op at a time. It can be done, it just requires a different approach.
 
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