Recommendations for 2-3” fixed

Abraham and Moses, a subsidiary of Geissele, has introduced a couple small USA made fixed blade knives that fit the OP's characteristics of 3" or under blade length, specifically their AM-3 in D2 steel, https://abeandmoe.com/am-3-knife-with-leather-sheath-right-handed.html

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Nice that’s more of what I’m looking for sorta, how do you like the handle/grip on it?
 
I'm impressed with their offerings, but I own the larger AM-1, I don't own a AM-3, the AM-1 scales are more rounded than the AM-3's which look a little on the square, or blocky, side...If you've used Geissele rifle triggers you know their quality, the A&B knives are no different, the blade grind is very nicely executed and the G10 scales have a rough texture and are very grippy, their leather is top-notch quality but I'd probably get a Kydex taco made for the AM-3 for good retention yet fast access w/a fob & dongle. You can buy them without the leather sheath, just so you know...
 
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What's the one on the LEFT? I like that one :thumbsup:
Thanks, KnifeRep KnifeRep . Here's the archived link for it, the Bakr Bilt Model 1. https://tricitycustomknives.com/product/bakr-bilt-model-1-stag/
The other Bakr Bilt knife that Tri-City Customs still has on their site looks like a beauty, too.
I bought mine not too long ago, and then was really excited to see that White River Knives partnered with the maker, Owen Baker, Jr. for three of the knives in their 2018 - 2019 catalog: the ATK, Small Game, and Hunter. The Small Game appears to have similar spec.'s to the Model 1 that I have.
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/WT...d-green-canvas-micarta-handles-leather-sheath
 
Thanks, but unfortunately I’m not a huge fan of the pearl grips, and the second ones a touch too large, if I go with that size i may just purchase my dads guardian3!

Which I may do, idk may just have to use it and get used to it.
Please keep the reccomendations coming though guys, all the info is so very much appreciated.
 
Of the ones I have and have handled used lightly, I like the Enzo Necker in Sandvik, the Fallkniven WM 1, the Lt Wright or Battlehorse Frontier Valley, or the Lt Wright Patriot.

Ones that I like but do not have any experience with but like the designs and construction are those by White River.
 
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I’m really like this White River M1 Caper in s35vn
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And Dawson Knives Field Guide in 52100
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So again, big question now is how does Bradford’s m390 HC 60-61, s35vn HC 58-60 and 52100 HC 62 but I think it’s more ~60 compare?
I’m assuming m390 is going to be best edge retention, while s35vn may be easier to sharpen but more corrosive, same with 52100, I’m assuming it’ll be good but not as good as s35vn at sharpening while again not so great at corrosion and edge retention?
 
Welcome to the forums Panda. Here is a pretty good article on knife steels.
https://knifeinformer.com/discovering-the-best-knife-steel/
It's a delicate balance between toughness, hardness, wear resistance, edge retention, and corrosive resistance. Add something (like Cobalt) to bump up one, another one drops.

All the steels you mentioned are good ones. I have some 52100 fixed blades (OKC) and they perform well. If I had a choice, I'd go S35 or M390 thou.

My recommendation is https://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-Pendleton-Mini--6880
Light, great steel, but made in Japan and not the US (deal breaker?)

https://www.bladehq.com/item--LT-Wright-Knives-Patriot-Fixed--68748
 
LT Wright has a few good models in that size range. AEB-L is a decent stainless but the 3V blades will hold a better edge and still offer fair stain resistance, though it's not stainless. Sounds like M390 is nearly the perfect steel for your needs, but plenty of others will do.

I think the cold steel pendleton hunter in 3V would be decent, or whichever is 3". It's hollow ground so it's not amazing sturdy but it will tear up some boxes.

Also, I like a wharcliffe or sheepsfoot edge best for boxes. I'm not sure what's out there for fixed blades but there shoukd be something. Usually a few of the options in the knifemaker's market in the exchange have something. I use folders for that task so I'm a bit useless knowing what's in production with the straighter edge. I know LT Wright has a wharncliffe model but I've not looked too closely at it yet.
 
Quick comments on steel, as you wanted stainless, M4 and 52100 aren't for you. 52100 stains easily but is a great user steel otherwise. Similar with M4, M4 having great edge retention. For tearing through cardboard M399 is good, S110V is one of the best but I've only seen that availavke from spyderco folders. I have a native 5 s110v as my daily cutter, and had a liinsteel don in m390 before recntly selling it in anticipation of roughly the same knife but with a sheepsfoot and clip point blade instead of just the sheepsfoot.

S30V/S35vn (not the same but very similar in use), CTS XHP, cts 204P (same as m390), M390, elmax, S90V, and S110V are probably some of the better wear resistant steels for abrasive material like cardboard. It's hard to find thise steels in fixed blades but not impossible. The Bradford guardian being one of them.

D2 steel could be a great option as well if you get it from a good source as there are a lot of lesser D2's available from China, though some of the better Chinese offerings are decent enough. Since you're looking for US made, just make sure the brand knows what they're doing with it, most do at this point
 
An outfit called Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works makes some really tough small (and big) fixed blades. The prices on the small ones are attractive.
 
Alright guys, so it’s looking like I’m between these two;
Bradford guardian 3 in m390
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And White River’s M1 Caper in s35vn
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So again, like in the OP, I work on cell towers, which means the potential for a lot of cutting and slicing of; small gauge wire (cat5 and #1/2) stripping of 1/0 and 2/0, opening a lot of plastic pags and boxes, cutting a lot of electric, packing, duck, and sometime special Teflon and/or silver lined air duck/water sealant tape, may even be used to cutting caulk or weather proofing/sealant, etc etc, you get the idea. outside work, I’m a California city boy with a touch of country so wont be used for anything super strenuous.
The majority of my work is done on cables with 48v anywhere from 40-350 amps give or take so a power knife is primarily used with a 1095 blade, especially if ANYTHING is hot. Don’t need a lecture on safety at work, been in this line of work for a number of years with no incidents other than some small cuts and nicks.
So now comes the options, both knives are “essentially” identical, here’s the basic specs in a g3 vs m1 format
Blade composition: m390 vs s35vn
Blade length 3.5in vs 3in (guessing 3.5 including choil)
Cutting length 3in vs 3in
Overall length 6.75in vs 7in
Thickness 0.14in vs .13in
Scales .59in x .9in vs .625in x ~1in (according to people who own the knife due to nothing being listed via white river)
HRC 60-61(62 according to owners) vs 58-60(60-61 according to owners)
Price[shipped] $170vs $160

Now I can buy my dads g3 that has essentially not been used for basically the same price as the m1, but my big question is the choil of the m1, I feel like it may add a little more control that I need for my line of work, so does the m1 offer any benefits over the g3? The g3 looks amazingly but a slight fear of finger slip into the blade? Anyone have any experience with this/this knifes finger choil?
Now I know the s35vn will be easier to sharpen but also need more maintance since it’ll have a lot more corrosion that the m390 if not maintained..
So now comes the question, now what would you all recommend, but instead of give the two options I want to hear which you’d pick and why.
Should I just give into my dark side and buy both!? Haha
 
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I do want to say thank you to everyone that has posted a reply, your information and feedback is very much appreciated.
I’ve watched over the forums for a while now, poking in when I needed clarification or understanding on some steels, blade styles etc but never hoped in before now. glad I finally did.. just wish I had done it sooner.
 
To not make it easier, the choil on the G3 will act a lot like the deep cutout at the front of the M1's handle.

As specs are close, I'll offer these tidbits to consider. If you want ease of carry, the M1 looks like the smaller handle. If slicing only, that's usually fine. If you are going to be digging into anything a lot, like cardboard, then the bigger handle of the G3 will payoff. The thicker and wider handle at the front will be noticeable after a lot of use if you're consistency working on tougher media. For me, it's wood and cardboard where the thinner handles can be a bother. But, if I only cut a little here and there and the rest is packaging and tape, then ease of carry wins out.

Being a fixed blade, consider the sheath as nearly being as important as the blade. I know the G3 has a good sheath, I'm not sure what the M1 comes with. I'm a fan of clip sheaths, followed closely by horizontal carry sheaths, for small fixed blades myself and I think the G3 has a nice stock sheath, with a decent aftermarket kydex also available.

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To not make it easier, the choil on the G3 will act a lot like the deep cutout at the front of the M1's handle.

As specs are close, I'll offer these tidbits to consider.
Yeah, I’m leaning towards the g3 because the handle is a little bit thicker, the choil is really the only point that I was iffy on with the g3 but it sounds like the g3’s should work just fine and not cause and slipping etc..
Now as far as sheaths go, my dad has the kydex sheath for the g3 so if I pick it up from him, I’ll definitely go for the package deal.. my big issue is I live in Sacramento CA, so laws here make the g3 actually a little more desirable since a concealed fixed blade, even if I get out of the car and my shirt drops over it for a second or two, is technically a felony concealed weapon in this great (sarcasm) state, so again the slightly larger scales and the modification possibilities of the kydex sheath are making me lean in the g3 direction.
Thanks again for the info.
 
Keep narrowing down. Sounds like you have good thoughts on both.
 
Keep narrowing down. Sounds like you have good thoughts on both.
Yeah, at the point the blade sizes are so similar, scales are very similar, sheaths since I’m in ca I plan on doing a drop hit kydex for both, so ultimately the question is m390 vs s35vn and the choil size.. I have a feeling the m390 will hold up noticeably better on the g3, but I also think for find knife work the choil of the m1 May add a touch of control/safety.. ahh, the options!

Does anyone know the actual measurements for the handle/scales on the m1 Caper by chance? S35vn version please, but the s30vn should be the same, I’d assume.

**EDIT** my profile may be new, but I’ve been doing some research for a while, thanks too you guys here I’ve learned a lot over the past few months of reading.
 
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