Rough Rider & Related Slipjoints

That's too funny Jack. The "lost in translation" thing really holds true and offers a good chuckle. :D
 
I'm looking to try a little whittling, and would like to get my first "whittler". Which Rough Rider model would you guys suggest? I really don't even have a clue what blade combos are best.
 
If you're not looking to modify the knives first, I'd recommend something like a congress pattern. You normally get a good selection of whittling friendly blades in that pattern. Plus the blades in most of the Rough Rider congress knives are smaller and thinner giving you good blades for fine detail. Look for something in a comfortable handle length too as that can really be a deal breaker.

I started with a Colt railsplitter that I like but have run into the limitations of the large blades once or twice. I meant to grind the blades down but never got to that. I did take the edges down to 15-17° per side and went pretty high polish.
All I have to do now is strop to keep it sharp even with hardwood.

Good luck on whittling and hopefully Mr Chips will be by to set me straight ;)
 
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If you're not looking to modify the knives first, I'd recommend something like a congress pattern. You normally get a good selection of whittling friendly blades in that pattern. Plus the blades in most of the Rough Rider congress knives are smaller and thinner giving you good blades for fine detail. Look for something in a comfortable handle length too as that can really be a deal breaker.

I started with a Colt railsplitter that I like but have run into the limitations of the large blades once or twice. I meant to grind the blades down but never got to that. I did take the edges down to 15-17° per side and went pretty high polish.
All I have to do now is strop to keep it sharp even with hardwood.

Good luck on whittling and hopefully Mr Chips will be by to set me straight ;)
Thanks! I noticed some Congress, Swell Center, and Sowbelly patterns among others. I've never had a Congress, so that'd be another first (which is always good, variety is the spice of life).
 
I'm looking to try a little whittling, and would like to get my first "whittler". Which Rough Rider model would you guys suggest? I really don't even have a clue what blade combos are best.

I second Neko2's suggestion of a congress (and his recommendation to get input from Mr. Chips :D). I enjoy my amateur whittling attempts, and my projects are usually small enough to carry around in a coat pocket so I can work on them at the bus stop before and after work. So small blades work better for me. I'm quite fond of this little Rough Rider canoe-whittler. It's only 3 inches long, which might be uncomfortably small for long sessions, but for the 15-20 minutes at a time that I usually whittle, it hasn't been a problem. The main blade (2 inches) is a lockback spearpoint, and it also has 1.5" pen and coping blades; nice variety of sizes and shapes.

56PRNpcl.jpg


wKz5RiRl.jpg


- GT
 
I second Neko2's suggestion of a congress (and his recommendation to get input from Mr. Chips :D). I enjoy my amateur whittling attempts, and my projects are usually small enough to carry around in a coat pocket so I can work on them at the bus stop before and after work. So small blades work better for me. I'm quite fond of this little Rough Rider canoe-whittler. It's only 3 inches long, which might be uncomfortably small for long sessions, but for the 15-20 minutes at a time that I usually whittle, it hasn't been a problem. The main blade (2 inches) is a lockback spearpoint, and it also has 1.5" pen and coping blades; nice variety of sizes and shapes.

56PRNpcl.jpg


wKz5RiRl.jpg


- GT
I definitely like the look of that, especially with the hidden tang/angle or whatever you call it. I'm a bit over picky about that when using knives hard.
 
Looks like Rough Rider has a new Cotton Sampler out. Looks pretty nice.

RR1422.jpg


The Rough Rider Two Spirit Daggers, however, are not so nice. They look pretty silly in fact.

MI206S.jpg
 
My Baby Copperhead arrived. It had a few issues so I decided it needed some tweaking. Sorry, no before any afters but all I did was clean up the grooves in the bolsters a little and the bolsters themselves, applied an attempt at satin finishing with gray Scotch Brite on the blades and the handle, and put in my own swedge on the main blade. I have been ruined a bit with the red bone knife in the pics, it's just so well done - I need to buy more but it looks like I'm gonna have to dig a little because I can't find one on the bay or at SMKW. The Rough Riders are pictured with a Case Mini Copperhead which has a little better fit than the Baby Copperhead, but neither are as good as the red 423. That kind of tang to spring fit for $10? Yes please.

Another little thing - I noticed it in my own pictures - the Case grind stops right at the spine where as the RRs are thinner, causing a step at the plunge line in the spine. I don't know if it's good, bad, or indifferent, but I guess I would rather have the material on the knife than in a pile of metal dust on the factory floor. Anyway, PICS!

Really happy with the bone color on my new Baby Copperhead!. And good function all around with again, what I call Goldilocks spring tension, vs the completely dead pen blade on the Case from the factory.

roughrider_babycopperhead2 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr

minicopperheads_penknife by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr

minicopperheads_penknife_spines by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr

minicopperheads_penknife_closed2 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
 
Nice photos!

...

Another little thing - I noticed it in my own pictures - the Case grind stops right at the spine where as the RRs are thinner, causing a step at the plunge line in the spine. I don't know if it's good, bad, or indifferent, but I guess I would rather have the material on the knife than in a pile of metal dust on the factory floor...

I'm not sure that I follow and I'm not familiar with this particular pattern but in the photos it looks like the blades are offset on the RRs. This helps make space to accommodate the 2nd blade. The Case knife appears to have a double liner for this purpose... at least that's my guess without seeing the wells with the blades closed.
 
Nice photos!



I'm not sure that I follow and I'm not familiar with this particular pattern but in the photos it looks like the blades are offset on the RRs. This helps make space to accommodate the 2nd blade. The Case knife appears to have a double liner for this purpose... at least that's my guess without seeing the wells with the blades closed.

Yeah I think you're on the right track - makes sense. The Case does have the double liner, though the blades rub anyway. On the RR Copperhead they did a pretty good job, where the extra grind for the offset is on one side pretty nice. But on others they just seem ground too far on both sides even when it's not necessary - you can kind of see it on the red one in the pics. I actually had to go back and look at some of my others now that I've made the comment - and actually they aren't bad.
 
Where did you find those spirt daggers? Metal or stone blades?
They might go well in a Dream Catcher, or something.

Edit: Never mind, I found them on ... that Tennessee ... website.
Cast resin, display only, which is cool, like I said, they might go well in a large dream catcher.
Too bad they only have the wolf and eagle though. Hopefully they will bring out more spirit animals, like the Bear, Badger, Beaver, Buffalo, and the rest.
 
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If you're not looking to modify the knives first, I'd recommend something like a congress pattern. You normally get a good selection of whittling friendly blades in that pattern. Plus the blades in most of the Rough Rider congress knives are smaller and thinner giving you good blades for fine detail. Look for something in a comfortable handle length too as that can really be a deal breaker.

I started with a Colt railsplitter that I like but have run into the limitations of the large blades once or twice. I meant to grind the blades down but never got to that. I did take the edges down to 15-17° per side and went pretty high polish.
All I have to do now is strop to keep it sharp even with hardwood.

Good luck on whittling and hopefully Mr Chips will be by to set me straight ;)

I agree with the suggestion of the congress if no modifications are involved RR 784 is a good one.

The Colt Railsplitter is a good one too. Here is one of my tricked up Railsplitters:
016_zps5c088829.jpg~original
[/IMG]

Another good one, often over looked, is the RR Barlow:
wb004_zpsa67465c4.jpg~original
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Do not fear the modification. You can do this. All you need is a good file. If you have a vise, so much the better. If not, its OK, this can still be done.

Use a felt pen to draw the shape you want on your blade, bold it edge down on a firm 2x4 or fence rail, whatever, and file away. After you get the shape to what you want you can use your sharpening stone or wet/dry sandpaper to smooth things up. Use the file and stone to shape your edge and you are set.

I usually use a 10 degree angle for sharpening, but use what works for you.

Sharpen at the 10 degree angle until you get a burr all along the edge. Use firm pressure on the stone. THIS IS IMPORTANT! DON'T SKIP THIS PART! Then turn the knife over and do the other side until the burr forms the other way. Then make a few light strokes on first one side and then the other until you can't feel any burr.

There is still a burr there, that has to be removed by stropping.

Make a strop. (If you can't make a strop, you have no future as a whittler.)

Take a flat stick about 2" wide by 10 " long. Using wood glue, or double sided carpet tape stick on some denim (a piece of those old jeans that should have been tossed out long ago will be fine). Make the denim wide enough so that it overhangs the edges of the strop a little.

Put some white or green buffing compound on the strop. You need this stuff, you can get it at a discount tool store near you,( something about sea ports and cargo???). If you can't find any just send me a personal message and I will help you get some.

Do not use red jeweller's rouge (for soft metals only), or delude yourself with a naked strop. (Psychological value only in my opinion). Color the strop with the compound.

Now drag the edge of the blade while fanatically maintaining the original sharpening angle throughout the stroke. Do not flip the blade and go the other way, because if you do you will anticipate that flip and turn the blade up to vertical and rub the edge off. Give the blade 75 -100 (seriously) firm strokes on one side and then the same on the other side.

You may be able to shave with this blade the first time you do this, but you certainly will if you stick with it and practice.

Beware! Whittlin' is extremely addictive!
 
I got this in the mail the other day from my benefactor who wished to remain anonymous and it's what I'm carrying today. I first thinned out the edge on some stones by hand but that wasn't enough. It was pretty dull when I got it, so took a break and came back to it the next day sharpened for about 15 minutes. I should have went with a course stone right off the bat. Would have saved me some time figuring out things. I then reset the bevels with a Spyderco sharpmaker after free handing it then finally realizing that I had put a wire burr on the edge. I stropped with a leather belt and some feathering on a ceramic rod to remove the burr and it cleanly shaves hair.

I can't attest to how long the Steel Warrior steel will stay sharp. The Rough Rider steel stays sharp for quite some time under normal use. But that said I've found a new pattern to like. I would like to pick up a Schrade or a Buck in this size if possible. I'm guessing this one is running about 3.5" closed length.


 
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