chiral.grolim
Universal Kydex Sheath Extension
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2008
- Messages
- 6,422
Well, I'm not Guy, nor a knifemaker, but you can certainly search the forum (particularly the Maker's section) for opinions on such things. Here's my take:
Biomechanics deals with the user, more specifically the user-knife interface, i.e. the handle as a means of controlling the blade, this feeds into ergonomics. You want a handle designed to maximize control for the tasks expected while minimizing awkwardness or discomfort - not too long, not too short, not too straight, not too round, not too square, etc.
Blade shape/profile in relation to the amount of belly and position of the tip have more to do with the intended use of the blade - different designs are better/worse at different tasks depending on their geometry. Take for example the Stockman-pattern knife - 3 blades:
1) a long clip-point with lots of belly and a tapered, narrow point - not quite as "pokey" as a trailing-point but stronger, though not as strong as a straight-point or drop-point but usually more pokey, it's a balance of designs that works well for various chores. The tip is usually well in front of the handle.
2) a smaller spey-blade - stronger tip but shorter blade in general, the "clip" is sudden and severe at the tip, dropping it from being "pokey" to more of a controlled slicing shape like a #10 scalpel, perfect for delicate cutting and skinning. The tip is often nearly in-line with the handle.
3) a sheepsfoot blade - a straight edge, no curve to the belly, with a very strong tip, excellent for carving/whittling tough materials.
Each blade has a specific purpose or range of uses outside of which it isn't as proficient, e.g. the clip-point and spey-blades aren't as good for whittling, the sheepsfoot less desirable for skinning or food-prep, etc.
The position of the tip in relation to the handle can effect how the tool is used for, say, stabbing actions. We are intuitively used to stabbing at objects as if the tool is a straight stick with the tip directly in line with whatever we are holding - if the tip is "dropped" or "clipped" from that line, then our aim will be off unless we compensate. This is why spear-point blades are preferred for such use. This doesn't mean that a slightly off-center trailing or clip or drop-point blade won't work, it just isn't the optimal design. If comparing two drop-point blades for "stabbiness", the thinner and more centered tip will be preferred. A more forward point is preferred for gouging/digging or precise piercing (think of the sheepsfoot whittler), a trailing point is preferred for avoiding piercing.
Guy's designs are mostly "drop-point" though they tend not to begin the drop until a ways up the spine, and the points fall nicely in line with the handle, giving all an intuitive "stabbiness", yet they tend to have sufficient belly for skinning/slicing tasks, sufficient straight-edge for carving - they designs are generally well rounded, clean, simple. Exceptions include the Neckers and yet-to-come GSO-12 with more specialized aspects.
That's enough from me, I'm sure Guy will have his own (and better) reasons. :thumbup:
