The Puukko

I found this Marttirri today at the local flea market.

The scabbard's belt loop was mostly gone (rodent chewed) so I made another using the old one as a pattern.

The blade is 5.50" long....Overall length is 10.75".

p-006-2-jpg.789500


LOL.....I went through all 50 pages of this thread and so far I've not seen one like it.

If you know anything about it please comment in the thread i started on it.....Thanks.

Finnish Marttirri Puukko

I found this Marttirri Puukko this morning at the local flea market for $20.00 and was wondering if anyone had any info on it they could let me know about. The scabbard's belt loop was mostly gone (rodent chewed) so I made another using the old one as a pattern. The blade is 5.50"...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
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Received an interesting knife today. A copy of one of three models by the Finnish designer Tapio Wirkkala.

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After the success of his "Wirkkala puukko" knife by Hackman Cutlery, one of which is in the collection of The Museum of Modern Art, New York, Tapio continued to draw knives. Tapio Wirkkala offered several of his sketches to the Finnish knife company LapinPuukko.

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Knives puukko (in two versions, with guard and without guard), leuku (large and small), and this Sami puukko. In 1977-78 LapinPuukko produced 5600 of the first model (2800 and 2800). The second model remained on paper. The third model was released in a trial batch with a molded plastic handle, the model was not popular and did not get into mass production.

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A master from Moscow made it according to Tapio's drawing with a brass guard, as the designer intended, but with a handle made of stained hornbeam instead of plastic.

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Well, as usual, at the end of the story there is a dog. :)

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Barbababa said:
https://imgur.com/a/x6UnOrB
I’m not sure this qualifies as a Puukko since it’s built with a Mora 120C whittling blade…
I am going to make the same simple fold over sheath that I did for the shorter 106. Then, maybe I should start whittling something from my saved peach wood. I am thinking a spoon of would be a good start
Click to expand...

Now that one came out amazing. Handle shape caters perfectly to the blade symmetry. I'm partial to that blade blank but I think it's your best yet!
 
Barbababa said:
https://imgur.com/a/x6UnOrB
I’m not sure this qualifies as a Puukko since it’s built with a Mora 120C whittling blade…
I am going to make the same simple fold over sheath that I did for the shorter 106. Then, maybe I should start whittling something from my saved peach wood. I am thinking a spoon of would be a good start
Click to expand...
Outstanding! Is the handle oval in cross section or fully round? As the blade is a whittler, I would think a round shape would be more appropriate, but everyone has a preference.

Ziwg
 
The Zieg The Zieg Thank you kindly :)
https://imgur.com/a/W72PcLH
No, the shape is copied/inspired from the original Mora barrel shape. The front and back are oval with flatter sides, while the center of the handle is almost round. It´s actually a really comfortable shape in hand while whittling.
https://imgur.com/cilwOcI
SwissHeritageCo SwissHeritageCo I totally over engineered this build in an effort of trying something new (learning is fun). I did not want to glue the parts together, and tried to drill the handle like Morakniv does and make use of the small original locking pipe in the back.
https://imgur.com/TLFCwp4
I started by soldering the front plate to the tang/blade to make it solid and water proof. I made a 8mm hole with filed slots in the following front brass and carbon disks securing them sideways to the front of the tang.
I then drilled out the wood with a 7mm drill, all the way along the tang to the slimmer end (3mm Ø) of the tang, leaving the last 30mm. Then I flipped it around and made a 3mm Ø hole in that last part, for the slimmer end of the tang. Then, back at the front, drilling a 15mm deep 8mm Ø hole, followed by drilling a 10mm deep 9mm Ø hole. Finishing the front of the wood by filing shallow slots for the tang. Then I flipped it back over again and made the 10mm deep 6mm Ø hole for the locking pipe. now I could slide all the parts on to the tang, securing them with the locking pipe. This left the last 11mm of the tang for the back brass/carbon disks. I then threaded the tang with m3, I glued the brass and carbon disks, drilled a hole and threaded that with m3. Now I could screw the end cap on, tighten it, and sand the protruding part of the tang flat. But, at this stage, the only part that was ready in shape was the first 2mm front brass plate. Everything else needed shaping/sanding. As I started to shape the back/endcap, I noticed that they needed to be prevented from unscrewing while filing anti-clockwise. I ended up with drilling a 2mm hole thru the endcap and in to the wood, and put a 2mm brass nail in it.
The finishing is open for improvement, but that will be for the next build. This one is going to be a user ;)
 
Barbababa said:
The Zieg The Zieg Thank you kindly :)
https://imgur.com/a/W72PcLH
No, the shape is copied/inspired from the original Mora barrel shape. The front and back are oval with flatter sides, while the center of the handle is almost round. It´s actually a really comfortable shape in hand while whittling.
https://imgur.com/cilwOcI
SwissHeritageCo SwissHeritageCo I totally over engineered this build in an effort of trying something new (learning is fun). I did not want to glue the parts together, and tried to drill the handle like Morakniv does and make use of the small original locking pipe in the back.
https://imgur.com/TLFCwp4
I started by soldering the front plate to the tang/blade to make it solid and water proof. I made a 8mm hole with filed slots in the following front brass and carbon disks securing them sideways to the front of the tang.
I then drilled out the wood with a 7mm drill, all the way along the tang to the slimmer end (3mm Ø) of the tang, leaving the last 30mm. Then I flipped it around and made a 3mm Ø hole in that last part, for the slimmer end of the tang. Then, back at the front, drilling a 15mm deep 8mm Ø hole, followed by drilling a 10mm deep 9mm Ø hole. Finishing the front of the wood by filing shallow slots for the tang. Then I flipped it back over again and made the 10mm deep 6mm Ø hole for the locking pipe. now I could slide all the parts on to the tang, securing them with the locking pipe. This left the last 11mm of the tang for the back brass/carbon disks. I then threaded the tang with m3, I glued the brass and carbon disks, drilled a hole and threaded that with m3. Now I could screw the end cap on, tighten it, and sand the protruding part of the tang flat. But, at this stage, the only part that was ready in shape was the first 2mm front brass plate. Everything else needed shaping/sanding. As I started to shape the back/endcap, I noticed that they needed to be prevented from unscrewing while filing anti-clockwise. I ended up with drilling a 2mm hole thru the endcap and in to the wood, and put a 2mm brass nail in it.
The finishing is open for improvement, but that will be for the next build. This one is going to be a user ;)
Click to expand...
Great work.
I'm exhausted just reading about it.
 
screened porch said:
Here's a change of pace:
o5kJgQl.jpg

I think the stick is from a lilac at the old house that a tree fell on.
fHJrCsT.jpg

(The tree fell on the lilac, not the house.)
Click to expand...
We had a real snowstorm in November, a lot of wet heavy snow in a short period of time. I have seen lots of broken down lilac in my area. I just learned that it was a common wood for walking sticks back in the day, and that it’s quite hard and durable. Maybe one should try to collect some and dry for knife making 😎👍🏿
 
Barbababa said:
We had a real snowstorm in November, a lot of wet heavy snow in a short period of time. I have seen lots of broken down lilac in my area. I just learned that it was a common wood for walking sticks back in the day, and that it’s quite hard and durable. Maybe one should try to collect some and dry for knife making 😎👍🏿
Click to expand...
Yeah. Very fine, straight grain, too, I think.
 
Can anyone date this old long-blade Marttiini Lynx? Diamond section blade is a full 1/4 inch thick.

I know they were made from approx. 1940 to 1970 and were favorites with the Germans who fought against the Russians in Finland during WWII.

Also, does anyone understand the "decorative" pattern on the sheath? Maybe its a fish?

ixowAly.jpg

YXLOA0j.jpg
 
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