Review Using the RUIXIN PRO III knife sharpener

[kreisler]

Today i used the RUIXIN/ADAEE stones for sharpening a small stiff beater kitchen knife without the Ruixin contraption. Imho this is worth sharing, because it was my very first time that i sharpened a knife free-hand on a stone. I have no prior experience, practice, or whatever, with free hand sharpening! I could have done the sharpening on the contraption today but for various minor reasons i spontaneously decided to try my first free hand job instead. I certainly felt inspired by Alex's video, i got that inspiration months ago. Back then i was amused about the use of such a small stone for free hand sharpening, but i stumbled upon a few amazon customer reviews for the RUBY stone which indicated free hand sharpening too. So i knew that it is definitely possible to "abuse" these tiny cheap stones for the job!

While i don't have any experience with free hand sharpening, i have enough experience and practice with free hand stropping. (...) Cutting the story of the little fun sharpening session short, the process felt simple, natural, straight-forward, and was successful. The blade had many (minor) nicks but it could saw through printer paper, the edge was not flat-rounded and didn't have any defined bevel. Because of the nicks it was clear to me to start with the lowest grit stone from my collection, the crooked-worn RUIXIN120. I raised a burr on either side, could see the grinding progress well. It was easy enough, a delight! Then I jumped to ADAEE2000, did alternate strokes and didn't check for the burr anymore (because alternate strokes reduce/remove the burr). Because it was so easy and fun, i did a few strokes more on ADAEE3000 with no intentions. Checked the apex with a flashlight, couldn't detect any reflecting light, cha! At that point the knife could slice through printer paper already, cleanly. Next, the free hand stropping step was not necessary but i did it after all. The way i strop, it definitely creates a micro bevel (polished quality), but that's fine with me. Cut test results were about the same, now push-cutting through printer paper, the knife can cut through tomato skin okay, to me that's a working edge, no further refinements wanted. When i do free hand stropping, i always use the same 1 grit level (namely the SiC compound); only when performing guided stropping, do i care to use grit level progression (2-5 levels) and achieve more impressive sharpening results.

I completed my very first free hand sharpening job in no time, didn't encounter any problems and am pleased with results, invested time, efforts, costs. I had soaked all 3 stones in water and i cleaned them regularly during the process, and i didn't use any oil or soap during the sharpening. Just the stone with pure water. All nicks are gone, too. No sweat was broken. Easy peasy.

Made my day! Congratulations to myself lol

Question: Will i do free hand sharpening more often in future?
Answer: Not really. If all knife conditions are met (cheap old small knife with short blade, no major nicks, only micro nicks, knife with no set bevel), i would still have to be in the proper mood or have some concrete motivation like a time constraint. I must admit though that this short sharpening session was really efficient (efforts, time).

 

[kreisler]

2 things which bug me:

1. the ruixin frame has a chrome-like shiny coating, and that coating is easily damaged/scratched, and once it is, the main material (metal) starts rusting right away. cheap sheet metal material, not a big deal.
2. the right angle of the ruixin frame is rounded in the vertex, basically eliminating the vertex through the existence of an annoying radius. having a rounded edge, where your knife is to lie, **cks and causes problems with small/narrow blades. bending a metal sheet to a 90degree angle will always entail a radius ("bending radius"), so i am just saying that a much smaller bending radius (or no radius as with the Edge Pro Apex) would have been much better. cheap production process.

I saw the forward blade support in the Hapstone M2 Kickstarter video and didn't realize that the Ruixin has it too. This basically eliminates the no.2 which bugged me: the rounded edge!

Imho the SS plate is fixed best in the horizontal label orientation. If you don't need the support, you can just leave it in this lowest position:

And if you need it, it is easily deployed. Even with the 3 magnets installed flat next to each other, nothing obstructs the SS plate fixture at the highest level (in horizontal orientation):

Interestingly, at this highest level, the forward blade support is exactly(!) plane with Ruixin plane, i.e. a flat blade doesn't get lifted up by the forward blade support. Looking from the side/profile view, the blade contacting area forms a straight line touching both the Ruixin plane fully AND the forward blade support:

One could also clamp an angle iron (angle steel) in between, if that's your preference.

I haven't sharpened a knife yet with the Ruixin forward blade support**, but i am looking forward to doing so in my next longer Ruixin sharpening session, whenever that may be.

**I haven't used the Ruixin in the past few months, because i've been keeping the knives sharp (or let's say "sharp enough") with a single 1inch narrow leather strop on a regular basis, say 1-4x per week, depending. And as long as there is no actual need to go through the Ruixin procedure, i don't do it anymore. It is pretty satisfying and feels even more relaxing, if one can maintain the ruixin-produced edge freehand with a leather strop all year long (=thereby creating a polished growing micro-bevel), without actually needing to go back to the Ruixin. As an advanced or experienced knife user, one should know which sharpening method is the most suitable one, depending on knife model, size, edge condition, steel material, time/efforts/energy/mood/etc constraints, target results, a.o.. Thanks to inexpensive guided-rod sharpening systems I managed to get my foot into the world of sharpening and over the first years i spent countless hours with them, they and the portable microscope taught me a lot on the way. But i can feel that i won't be needing the jig much in future anymore because of my freehand edge maintenance. Of course, when my nice knife needs a full Ruixin treatment, i'll be happy to do so on a boring rainy day.

 

[kreisler]

Hello everyone, in the past months i started learning/practicing coding for the fun of it (best new hobby ever!!), so i got less time/ambition for re-sharpening my Spyderco, Ganzo, kitchen, etc knives as i used to. That's why I had bought the Spyderco Sharpmaker because i thought it would suit me in the meantime. While i haven't used the Ruixin device anymore since i got the Sharpmaker, I am only soso pleased with the latter after all. Well, it is true that the Spyderco is easier and much quicker to deploy (and later tidy up), and using it is about as effortless as imagined, but it is also true that the process is less accurate less precise (as expected) and does take quite some time too! I don't see the Sharpmaker as a time-saver; if the blade has a rounded shiny edge (apex), one has no guarantee how long it takes on the 204M stones to apex/burr it.

(…)

Today i am writing because i've been noticing, too, that i don't really use the Sharpmaker anymore either (well, i still force myself to use it as my to-go sharpener, for various personal reasons) but i've been drifiting towards the funny freehand sharpening on 1inch narrow stones, which i learned from the outdoors55 channel.

For this, i use the hardest bound 'Ruixin compatibles' from my collection, i.e. the Adaee1500/2000/3000 and the Ruby3000 (the Green10000 is a waste of time). I had thought that i would never get/make any use of the effing Adaee stones but here i am and profiting from their hard-boundedness for freehand sharpening. And i get fantastic results with this technique! I have been experiencing that freehand sharpening is the most time-efficient and effective method (compared to guided rod sharpening and Sharpmaker), also some fun and, in the end, requires even less effort than the Sharpmaker. I can build a burr in no time, even on the super smooth Ruby3000, that's insane!

The only downside is that it is clearly the method which consumes most steel (Ruixin device consumes the least!) because it is so effective with stones. But in general this shouldn't be a concern, the point being, whoever sharpens very frequently, will notice steel consumption either way, no matter the method. It just happens faster with freehand sharpening. Therefore i would not freehand sharpen one of my Vinox SAK's on a stone, not even my Vinox or Leatherman multitool.

In my past sharpening sessions i freehanded this way my pm2 S30V, ganzo 440C, cheap big kitchen knives, and a cheap small solid kitchen knife. All a real success. (And of course, all finished off with 1-step leather strop.)

Also clear (to me), one cannot freehand a flexible knife (filet knife) or a recurved blade (scythe, filet knife) on such a flat stone. ((So there will always be a place, a special need for the Tri-Angle Sharpmaker; I got no real regrets having spent 104EUR on my Sharpmaker set, it's been a great investment which simply takes longer to pay off.))

What also amazes me is that after all my manual practice with the Ruixin device, the leather strops, and the Sharpmaker, i didn't need to practice the freehand sharpening ... the technique came all natural (and is basically the same technique as seen in that youtube channel). Looking back, probably it was mostly my hours total on the leather strops which lead to this 'coming natural'.

Of course, one could learn freehanding right away, without the prior detours of commercial sharpening devices but that'd be a tough path to follow, i guess, with hours of sweat and frustration; and that's exactly why so many commercial sharpening devices exist! Also, a nice freehand stone setup costs $$$ too (several bench stones, dressing stone, holder, working space, storage space). Thanks to my 'Ruixin-compatibles' collection, i have more than enough stones. The original Ruixin stones are soft-bound stones and do a perfect job on the Ruixin device; they get consumed fast (e.g. the Ruixin1500) and are too 'valuable' (lol) for my freehanding.

Now, after all my experience (Exduct, Ruixin, DIY strops, Sharpmaker, Ruixin-freehanding), it's been clear to me that in future i will do most of my sharpenings through the Ruixin-freehanding (followed by 1-step leather stropping). I can't believe that i spent so much time (and patience and efforts) with the other methods in the past!

Only in special occasions (and when i have time and motivation) will i treat a singular treasured knife, e.g. a show knife, with the Ruixin device (for sharpening, followed by the PTS method). The device, hands down, still gives the unbelievably most accurate/precise results for sharpening, stropping, polishing, in an effective, guaranteed, least consuming manner ... it just takes so much time and efforts and is imho really not suitable when you have 5 knives to sharpen in 1 afternoon.

Ruixin device owners should keep this wonderful experience of mine in mind when they get, over the year plus months, tired of setting up the device over and over again for different knives; eventually it will feel like a hassle! (Also, the pseudo-metal parts get consumed too .. all the gray gunk/powder building up in the crevices, yikes.)

To all the Ruixin device owners:
Don't be disappointed or upset if you got an apparently disappointing set of Ruixin-replacement stones for your device from a cheap-selling vendor (amazon, ebay, aliexpress, etc), but use them as practice stones for Ruixin-freehanding, and, slowly get away from the device … into more Ruixin-freehanding.

 

[bucketstove]

For this, i use the hardest bound 'Ruixin compatibles' from my collection, i.e. the Adaee1500/2000/3000 and the Ruby3000 (the Green10000 is a waste of time).

Hi,
Why is the green 10,000 a waste of time?

 

[kreisler]

Hi, i am glad that you've asked because in my most recent sharpening sessions yesterday, the day before yesterday, three days ago, etc (and they were all exclusively ruixin-freehandings, i.e. no more Spyderco Sharpmaker, no more Ruixin device, no more Exduct device, no more PTS method — because i really seem to be drifting away from using sharpening devices), i did make great use of the GREEN10000. That stone is apparently milled from a block of natural rock, presumably the agate stone. The higher the grit rating, the more expensive the stuff; this is valid for all sharpening stones (the 10000grit stones on Aliexpress are more expensive than the sub-8000grit stones), ceramic rods (the Spyderco 204UF is more expensive than the 204F), diamond spray stropping emulsions, and so on. The higher the grit rating of the stone (or ceramic), the denser the material; and the denser the material the heavier it is!

The GREEN10000 is super dense, non-porous, and very: heavy/hard/smooth. It does not absorb water. It 100.0% does not get worn because it is harder than steel. You don't want to be operating such a heavy stone on the Ruixin device; it is heavy on your hand/wrist/arm and the Ruixin mechanics/construction/build quality (e.g. the pseudo-metallic hinge) is not built or suitable for such a heavy stone, the long-term back and forth movements. When operating the device, one never uses pressure to move the stones, because no pressure is needed and the weight of the original stone itself (e.g. RUIXIN1500) exerts all the pressure needed; however the GREEN10000 needs fast back'n forth movements at notable pressure to become effective as a tool.

On the device, if you use this stone the same way (slow/medium speed of movement, one-directional movement i.e. only forth movement no back movement, pressure of its own weight) as any other original Ruixin stone, then it takes forever to advance and get the desired result.

And since the stone is so super-hard, super-flat and doesn't get worn, the geometrical dimensions of the stone (stone+black plastic holder) stay exactly the same: the thickness (height) is what it is, maybe in total 0.5-1.0mm thicker than your previous stone, say the slightly worn/ground RUIXIN1500. Typically the thicknesses of your Ruixin-compatible stones will vary by a fraction of a millimeter, and usually that is no big problem, because the stone gets worn or it can eat up the difference between the minimally different sharpening angles; basically each Ruixin-compatible stone grinds at a minimally different angle because of its different total thickness. It would be impractical to readjust the grinding angle every time you change the stone, and that's also not how the device is supposed to be used.

The device is supposed to be used in such a way that you simply change the stones between the steps (RUIXIN120—320—600—1500) without bothering about readjusting the grinding angle, even though these four stones get worn differently fast.

So … eventually you clamp in the (slightly thicker) GREEN10000 and realize, after 15min of one-directional grinding, that the grinding angle is slightly off and not hitting the full bevel (because the bevel profile is minimally convexed because of the previous worn stone or because of play in the metallic hinges) or the apex! You could readjust the angle at this point but .. you also realize that the one-directional grinding was very tedious and inefficient. So much time invested, and so little got ground, argh!

Well, you could use bi-directional grinding (i.e. back and forth movements of the stone), but it doesn't change anything, it simply takes forever to work the bevel with this super hard/smooth/flat stone, on the device. Really, what a waste of time! And if you follow through with it (say ridiculous 30min of grinding this way), the result (improved sharpness, improved finish) is disappointing, poor. I get better sharpness and better finish when i jump from the RUIXIN1500 to the PTS method. (The RUBY3000 step is not really needed because the subsequent PTS method is so effective that it eats its results up hehe)

Conclusion: On the Ruixin device, you really don't want to go higher than the RUBY3000 which is still good for one-directional grinding (i.e. forth movement only, pushing the stone). It is tempting to use a loaded stone (e.g. a blackening RUIXIN1500) for lateral grinding movements but that's also a waste of time and efforts, because the PTS method (i am mentioning the PTS method only because it follows the ruixin step progression naturally and is faster/more effective/more geometrically accurate than freehand leather stropping) eats that up too for an even higher sharpness and finish. Clearly, the GREEN10000 cannot be recommended at all for use with the device, because, once clamped in the device and apart from the minimally non-matching griding angle, it effects way too slow grinding (ineffective). In practice, this stone is imo useless in conjunction with the device. Btw the RUBY3000 stone/material is also mentioned favorably/independently on the GRITOMATIC webpage!!

However, the GREEN10000 is quite nice for ruixin-freehanding (=fast back and forth movements on one blade side to create the burr, then changing the side, doing the same fast back and forth thing, finally alternate traditional/orthodox strokes to reduce the burr and break it off)!! A few days ago i managed to produce, for the very first time in my life, a hair-whittling edge with it yay (setup: s30v pm2, GREEN10000, 1 leather strop, soft hair)! And since that experience i am absolutely getting the hang of (ruixin-)freehanding. I can go either RUBY3000+1 leather strop, or RUBY3000+GREEN10000+1 leather strop (PTS method no more needed). There is, honestly speaking, no tangible difference between the two end results, simply because, as you know, stropping eats up whatever tiny difference there was between a RUBY3000 and a GREEN10000 apex. I appreciate the GREEN for the freehanding because it doesn't load up, which makes it easier/faster to clean than the RUBY, and it produces a shinier polished finish. At this point, i don't regret (anymore) having purchased the GREEN back when i also got the Ruixin device, but I am not sure if i'd buy it, if i had the RUBY already. The RUBY is imho a musthave (for Ruixin device and for ruixin-freehanding), the GREEN is a nicetohave for ruixin-freehanding (only).

But maybe the most important take-home message is that, either way, the GREEN10000 cannot be used as final step! Why? Because, if effectively used in your hands, it does raise a notable burr (it is easier and so much faster to raise it with ruixin-freehanding than on the Ruixin device), which is correct. If you don't/can't raise a burr with this stone, then your method is ineffective and needs improvement.

Aliexpress sells GREEN AGATE stones in different dimensions/sizes, the bigger the more convenient for freehanding but also more expensive. Maybe i'll build a desktop holder for my Ruixin-compatibles, since the stone could easily fall from the desk edge onto the hard floor and break/crack.

Last but not least. I would love to use the flat sides of my Spyderco 204F and 204UF for ruixin-freehanding but i could need a perfect holder for this purpose, too (the 204MF black plastic case is not suitable for it, unfortunately) and that's another story. The price for the bench stone is forbidding. I cannot sell the Spyderco Sharpmaker because i need the triangular rods for sharpening recurved blades, scythes, and similar items. Oh well, I have tested to just hold the 204F like so, and it works okay. The Sharpmaker rods do have an advantage: the edges are rounded, unlike the GREEN and the RUBY which have super sharp 90 degrees edges. So if your blade geometry isn't perfect at the heel area (or there isn't a sharpening choil) and/or you fail to align the heel perfectly flat on the stone surface, you'll be cutting with the heel into the stone and cause the 90 degrees stone edges to chip at their surface. While my RUBY is still all good, my GREEN does have a few chipped spots at the stone edges by now. My bad. I am still learning. I better learn these lessons now (as a freehanding beginner with a 5$ GREEN) than later, when my grandpa gifts me with a brandnew 500$ Shapton lol. In other words, it is possible to cut (not only with the heel!) into the 90 degree edges of the GREEN or the RUBY when doing ruixin-freehanding, but it is impossible to do such a mistake with the Sharpmaker rods when doing ruixin-freehanding. Furthermore, the Sharpmaker rods don't chip like a GREEN because they are harder, denser.

In future i'll practice more ruixin-freehanding with the 204F and 204UF (with and without oil). And maybe i'll come to the conclusion that the investment in one 204UF rod (cost me 16EUR shipped) is more worthwhile than buying one GREEN. In any case, the RUBY is still a musthave, period.

B bucketstove , are you planning on getting the Ruixin? Are you interested, after having read this post, in buying the GREEN AGATE?

 

[bucketstove]

Hi,
Thanks

It would be impractical to readjust the grinding angle every time you change the stone, and that's also not how the device is supposed to be used.

Stone thickness compensation ?

Edge Pro Stone Thickness Compensation - singularity35 / Edge Pro Stone Thickness Compensation - MultiChuck45

While my RUBY is still all good, my GREEN does have a few chipped spots...

Hi,
Yup, I've also noticed its easy to cut into the sharp edges of narrow stones, slightly rounding those 90 degree corners is important maintenance procedure

B bucketstove , are you planning on getting the Ruixin? Are you interested, after having read this post, in buying the GREEN AGATE?

Yes I plan to get 3k ruby and 10k agate/beryl

No plans for ruixin edge pro, as I've already got all the parts for the final apex

 

[Jesper Rex]

Thanks for a GREAT Review.

What is the dimensions, of the Magnets that you are using?

 

[kreisler]

Thanks for a GREAT Review.

What is the dimensions, of the Magnets that you are using?

The OP is not a review imo. A review has a formal structure with systematic talking points. I didn't feel like doing such a full review. But if readers can take helpful information from it, then i'm glad. Needless to say that I chose a wrong position (location on the board) for the vertical steel rod. I should have placed it more to the side, not so centric.

I still use the contraption (and like using it when I do) every now and then, but today for example I sharpened 3 kitchen knives (small and medium sized knives, all with an S-shaped blade, brands were Wüsthof and WMF) through 204-freehanding, which would have been impossible to be sharpened on the Ruixin for various reasons, i.e. the practical limitations of the system. The obvious limitation is that you really cannot (or shouldn't) sharpen S-shaped blades like a fillet knife on such a system. Do you want me to list all disadvantages of a Ruixin system? Just let me know and I'll post an endless rant

The magnets I use are "N52 block 60*20*10mm Neodymium Permanent Magnets rare earth magnet", 4$ apiece. And you can stack'n place them as you see fit, depending on the width of your knife blade. Re-stacking and re-placing them in the Ruixin is a pita though, not easy. And typically one is too lazy to rearrange the magnets to a more optimal configuration.

The magnets have the perfect size. Only 1 is needed. But with 3, the power is stronger

 

[ribeyemediumrare]

Id like to hear the disadvantages of the system if you don't mind. I'm confused what you mean by ruixin-freehanding on the spyderco stones, do you just mean free handing in general or is there some type of "ruixin" method i'm not aware of?

 

[kreisler]

I'm confused what you mean by ruixin-freehanding on the spyderco stones, do you just mean free handing in general or is there some type of "ruixin" method i'm not aware of?

I'll discuss the Ruixin disadvantages some other time np. I am aware that I've been using the terms "ruixin-freehanding" and or "204-freehanding" in other posts without always re-explaining what i mean. So may this post serve as reference.

• " ruixin-freehanding " means using a Ruixin-sized (or similar sized) stone for freehand sharpening. No Ruixin device or any other device. Just you and the stone. Trading brands can be Ruixin, Adaee, Anself, or else. Typical dimension is 15.0 x 2.0cm. This narrow stone form factor, maybe originally(?) introduced by EdgePro Apex has become a sub-standard in sharpening supplies and many stone makers offer products with similar dimensions, often marketed as pocketable stones. Or how else would you call freehanding on a 10.0 x 2.5cm double stone? Traditionally, freehand sharpening is done on a bench whetstone which is bigger (longer, wider, thicker, more expensive). In contrast, freehand sharpening on Ruixin stones is very uncommon, which is why i gave it this extra naming. Btw my masters of ruixin-freehanding are Michael Christy and Alex. They use similar form factor stones by Spyderco, EdgePro, Shapton, Chosera, etc. If I used a Spyderco 303MF aka Double Stuff (5 x 1inch) instead of a Ruixin stone, i would still call this sharpening method 'ruixin-freehanding'. It is just my short way of saying that i do freehand sharpening AND that i do it on a narrow stone (which is a funny/uncommon/untypical/unorthodox/"ridiculous" way of freehand sharpening).
• " 204-freehanding " means using a single Spyderco Sharpmaker triangle rod for freehand sharpening. No Sharpmaker device. Just you and the stone. The rods have the model number 204M, 204F, 204UF, 204D, or 204CBN, so it really makes sense to give it this naming. The 204-series stones have the dimension 18.0 x 0.8cm, which is even narrower than a Ruixin stone! Basically it is the same as ruixin-freehanding, just with a single 204-stone instead of a Ruixin stone. There is no other notable difference between ruixin-freehanding and 204-freehanding. These triangle rods have some advantage: the 18cm long stone edges are minimally rounded, which makes it harder to accidentally cut into the stone and chip the stone (or chip the knife edge). It requires more concentration to balance a long knife on a Ruixin stone and not cut into the Ruixin stone by accident.

In practice there is a slight difference between 204- vs. ruixin-freehanding. The 204 stone is triangular, and for me to be able to exploit the flat faces i must hold the stone with 1 hand. In contrast, the ruixin stone is flat, so i can just place it on the table top; no need to hold it with/in 1 hand. In either case, the other hand holds the knife, of course

The only(!) reason why i do freehand sharpening on such narrow stones is … you guessed it right … money. Of course, it'd be more convenient to do freehand sharpening (especially of biiig kitchen knives) on a wider stone or a traditional bench whetstone. But, knowing my shopping behavior, in the end I would end up with a closet full of big stones, so no thanks! Since I am already able to reach hair-whittling sharpness with these narrow, small, affordable stones, I don't feel the need to upgrade the stone size.

It is imho actually really cool to achieve the same sharpness in the same time with a single 204F product (which most of us already own from the Sharpmaker box) as someone with a 306UF product for an extra 130US$, don't you think?

 

[kreisler]

btw when i sat down at my desktop i came to the conclusion that RUIXIN PRO III would be the best and final answer for the task at hand. for sure it would produce a geometrically perfect bevel and a scary sharp mirror-polished edge, wouldn't it? yes (in theory) but while i was roughly grinding down the secondary bevel on the device, i realized that the device and sectionalizing the blade was not the best path to keep following. here a pic before i started the grinding down of the secondary bevel (can you see it? exactly. very obtuse edge, crazy!)

so i switched to freehand sharpening, the rest is history. (…) it was extremely difficult to knock off the burr because of the cheap metal material (softness/plasticity/viscosity) and various aspects of the metal geometry. fortunately it was not an "absolutely impossible geometry", so with tons of efforts and resources the deburring could be done. i found the sharpening challenge interesting and gained valuable additional experience in knocking off extremely persistent macro micro nano burr wire edge but that was the first and last time that i put my hands on this old cr*ppy thing:

after test cutting a tomato the apex has already rolled wtf, you might be able to see it on the pic. it's not burr (even though it looks and feels similar). originally the blade had a 1mm secondary bevel with 70-80° angle, ridiculous obtuse angle. but even that obtuse apex was rolled! absolute junk metal, not suitable for cutting tasks. the product is maybe from the 1950's and worth . so i did it for the challenge (REGRET) and the experience (WIN). as i said 14755, never again.

 

[bucketstove]

after test cutting a tomato the apex has already rolled wtf, you might be able to see it on the pic. it's not burr (even though it looks and feels similar). originally the blade had a 1mm secondary bevel with 70-80° angle, ridiculous obtuse angle. but even that obtuse apex was rolled! absolute junk metal, not suitable for cutting tasks. the product is maybe from the 1950's and worth . so i did it for the challenge (REGRET) and the experience (WIN). as i said 14755, never again.

Hi,
So, many years of cutting coconuts has fatigued the edge? It now needs a 1mm removed from edge before stabilizing?

 

[kreisler]

To Whom It May Concern:

Some might be wondering why i had shifted the pole location from the original spot (?), which was off the center line (symmetry axis), onto the center line (??). Haha i must admit that back then it was an error/problem because using the Ruixin this way, flipping the knife sides back'n forth, would eventually lead to (slightly) non-symmetrical bevel faces: the bevel line on the right knife side would look a bit different from the bevel line on the left knife side.

Not until now lol did I realize that there is an easy fix, a workaround solution to the problematic setup. A picture is worth a thousand words:

In words, when you flip the knife side from A to B, then also pull out the rod (1.), loosen the wing nut to rotate the swivel joint by 180 degrees and tighten it back (2.), and reinsert the rod (3.). Now you're ready to grind side B, for a perfectly symmetrical treatment of the blade's bevel.

So primitive and perfect the workaround, it never came to my mind in all these years lmao! Taping the pole thickly with electrician's tape right underneath the swivel joint eliminates the need to readjust the joint's height. All in all, sure, it is still a bit of a hassle to follow the procedure 1.-2.-3. whenever one needs to flip the knife side, i.e. especially during the stage of weakening/minimizing/reducing/removing the burr where one needs to flip the knife sides frequently.

But guess what?

The whole Ruixin system (and similar guided systems) is a bit of a hassle either way.
(…)
Today I freehanded a cheap long dulled recurved AMC filetting knife (2nd from left) with just 1x 204M and 1x wooden paint stick. Creating a consistent burr wire edge took about 15min, it was a nasty wire edge. Then after 7min of normal deburring efforts the recurve and middle sections were scary sharp hooray. But only after additional 30min of more focused deburring efforts was i able to fully remove the microburr also from the delicate small thin flexible belly (=upper section of the blade). Every millimeter of the bevel is now scary sharp, and having mastered this 'spontaneous rare challenge', i'm at an emotional and energetic high! Clear to me, it would have been 100% impossible to sharpen this particular knife (or sharpen satisfactorily) on the Ruixin, or on any other guided system for that matter!! And of course, 2 years ago i had tried to. Here is a screenshot proof of the ruixin config which i saved on my phone for all intents and purposes:

I mean, seriously, wtf?? Today, 2 years later, i have no idea how to make use of these config instructions anymore. And above, the ruixin config for sharpening the WMF filleting knife (similar knife model) of my neighbor Norbert: i can remember well how i had tried hard to get a decent sharpening result on his knife but finally failed, because of the Ruixin path; it was the worst official sharpening result i ever got out of the Ruixin, shame on me, shame on Ruixin!!

For certain types of knives (or blades/bladed tools), a guided sharpening system totally has its place in one's toolbox and i am grateful to be a well-versed Ruixin user, and after all these years some users might still enjoy operating it regularly or even frequently. I am NOT that 'enjoying user' anymore. If i have an arbitrary/random/spontaneous sharpening task at hand (e.g. another neighbor's knife from his kitchen), i always consider all my strategic options how to tackle the task most efficiently and or most enjoyably. And whenever the task could be completed satisfactorily (i.e. with equal results) thru freehanding OR with the Ruixin, i'd always prefer the freehanded path because, in 19715 general, it is the more time/energy/efforts efficient and thus more enjoyable method, apart from being the more flexible method.

Several relevant downloads on geman RUBY made by FRIATEC-FRIALIT-DEGUSSIT-KYOCERA-O ALIAXIS (DEGUSSIT DD57 in grob, mittel, fein):

• https://kyocera-solutions.de/downloads/frialit-degussit-hochleistungskeramik
• (in English: https://www.friatec-ceramics.com/images/en-fine-grinding-tools.pdf )
• http://aliaxis-ui.at/wp-content/upl...AUI-2498d-03.III15.tp-BR_FRIALIT-DEGUSSIT.pdf
• http://www.degussit.com/downloads/
• http://www.degussit.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/FRIALIT-DEGUSSIT-Fine-Grinding-Tools.pdf
  
• http://www.degussit.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/FRIALIT-DEGUSSIT-Standard-Product-Range1.pdf
  
• here some int. price quotes: https://www.gesswein.com/p-10201-degussit-ruby-bench-stones.aspx

F 901-41 102-0
A 901-41102-0
(gesswein 350-1013 has dimensions 6" x 1" x 5/8" = F 901-41 101-0, we doht want that!)

 

[mross]

Have any of you seen this Ruixin Pro?


Looks like it will do what the WE does at 1/10th the price.

 

[Gritomatic]

Better than other Ruixin toys. $32.99 in the official Ruixing shop.

 

[mross]

Interesting, looks like the same thing. makes one wonder

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Gritomatic Are these good enough to actually use? Would you recommend this (with some better stones) to people with a total budget under $100? e.g. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-system.1701712/

 

[bucketstove]

Gritomatic Are these good enough to actually use?...

Hi
Why not? Same as all the other ruixins ... there are russian reviews on youtube for ruixin 360

 

[Mr.Wizard]

B bucketstove There are some Edge Pro Apex knockoffs and counterfeits that are apparently bad enough to produce only frustration. It would be nice to have an affordable option to recommend. Have you used other Ruixin models?

 

[Blues]

B bucketstove There are some Edge Pro Apex knockoffs and counterfeits that are apparently bad enough to produce only frustration. It would be nice to have an affordable option to recommend. Have you used other Ruixin models?

Please do not promote knockoffs and counterfeits on bladeforums. Thank you.