What did you rehang today?

Got a couple of those woodsman hatchets and like them very much,hope you end up with it.

Thank you, me too. Sometimes its quick, cut and dry, easy peasey with my friend. Sometimes its cat and mouse...either way I hope to grab sooner than later:thumbsup::cool:

I would stick with cast iron .... maybe wait for a deal on bigger size. Aluminum can leach to your food.

Thank you and yes, that is one of the primary reasons I wanted to avoid.

Larger, the largest offered to me was this Wenzel...I just didnt find much on Wenzel and that they are possibly made in China..? I did find a lot of catchy advertising, reminded me of the better made plunger:D

40360-_MMS-1525221444640-attachment1-output.jpg


40682-_MMS-1525390153766-attachment1-output.jpg


Larger than the Wagner 9 though.

Anyone know about Wenzel?
 
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am hoping someone with experience could lend an opinion regarding a preference of aluminum and cast Dutch. I have used a small pack Dutch in the past of a light steel pan with aluminum lid, this would be an incredible step up.

I have a possible option to grab one.
Wagner Ware 9 aluminum

I haven't used an aluminum dutch so I can't say. I can see where the lighter weight aluminum would make it easier to clean, care for and pack away. But I'm not sure I'd want to pack any dutch oven unless I had help from a few of Muleman77's associates. Of course that pot is designed for the kitchen with it's domed lid. Those self-basting domed lids really do work well.

On the trail I've used an MSR Alpine 2 set as a makeshift dutch oven. The lid can be reversed so you can pile coals on top.
https://www.rei.com/product/401157/msr-alpine-2-pot-set

It's a great pair of hatchets. I hope you get them. Hope you get the aluminum pot, too, and report back to us.
 
I have Wagner Ware Aluminum Magnalite...(as well as traditional cast iron). For the
trail, the alumna-lite is more practical (weight)... I do know that in the home it has
another issue... cannot be used on induction cook top stoves (can be used in the oven).
My aluminum resides in the RV.

....just some evaluation thoughts (that may help in decision making). Look very
closely (cast iron) for "cracks" ..easily hidden under patina. Make sure to test the
dutch ovens on a flat surface... wobbles/spinners are bad juju on the cook top. It has
not been my experience that aluminum is easier to clean than well seasoned cast iron.
Large divots in the cast iron cook surface may be next to impossible to fill with seasoning...
thus more difficult clean up. If this decision in any way involves money, the cast iron
gets much better/easier re-sale value. You may want to Google health issues with
aluminum cookware...much controversy.

Good luck. All will be totally functional whichever way you decide.

Charles
https://imgur.com/a/KAuVA
 
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I've got that exact Wenzel dutch oven. It's about as good as my others, it seems. At any rate it cooks fine and I've used it quite a bit.

I have Wagner Ware Aluminum Magnalite...(as well as traditional cast iron). For the
trail, the alumna-lite is more practical (weight)... I do know that in the home it has
another issue... cannot be used on induction cook top stoves (can be used in the oven).
My aluminum resides in the RV.

....just some evaluation thoughts (that may help in decision making). Look very
closely (cast iron) for "cracks" ..easily hidden under patina. Make sure to test the
dutch ovens on a flat surface... wobbles/spinners are bad juju on the cook top. It has
not been my experience that aluminum is easier to clean than well seasoned cast iron.
Large divots in the cast iron cook surface may be next to impossible to fill with seasoning...
thus more difficult clean up. If this decision in any way involves money, the cast iron
gets much better/easier re-sale value. You may want to Google health issues with
aluminum cookware...much controversy.

Good luck. All will be totally functional whichever way you decide.

Charles
https://imgur.com/a/KAuVA

I haven't used an aluminum dutch so I can't say. I can see where the lighter weight aluminum would make it easier to clean, care for and pack away. But I'm not sure I'd want to pack any dutch oven unless I had help from a few of Muleman77's associates. Of course that pot is designed for the kitchen with it's domed lid. Those self-basting domed lids really do work well.

On the trail I've used an MSR Alpine 2 set as a makeshift dutch oven. The lid can be reversed so you can pile coals on top.
https://www.rei.com/product/401157/msr-alpine-2-pot-set

It's a great pair of hatchets. I hope you get them. Hope you get the aluminum pot, too, and report back to us.

Thank you guys all very much!
I have to say, the Wenzel is the larger and cast like I was first thinking, and was my first choice. Liked the bold stamping too. The smaller cast Wagner has some chipping in the lid and aluminum for weight savings is not a parameter due to this will be for the kitchen and or the pop up camping we do with the boys :cool:

Squrepeg I use an old MSR kit for backpacking, gotta be about 18 years old now...working on my own vintage cookware lol! It had two pots, lid, skillet but the skillet was sacrificed some many years back.

Thank you again everyone! When I get the opportunity to pull the trigger on this next haul, I will gladly post up:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool:;)
 
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Here's a nice Belknap 3.2 double bit head I've had in the pile for years and years. Finally mounted it on a nice NOS handle.

The handle
VeGQGjk.jpg


The plan
DJQGvZr.jpg



The fit
CgfxUuG.jpg


oZKoDZ6.jpg

s6o8rTy.jpg


MTKTa0W.jpg


AzOr2LA.jpg


d4Hbrzk.jpg


The fatwood wedge
FxSk6an.jpg


rU1lt5G.jpg


The oil
2E4yuzT.jpg


The end result
ZjmFJtR.jpg




The pair
XmNF2t3.jpg


pOu4bZM.jpg


ClTCEYI.jpg


N8RVdIx.jpg


Pretty good match I think :)

:thumbsup:
That's a great process in pictures you shared, thanks! The fatwood looked good with resin you shaved a wedge from, is that Ponderosa Pine?
I never tire of seeing your anvil:cool:
Did you use a drift to hammer the head down to carve the ridge lines?
Is it to soon to assume you may be taking these boys out to work this week?:thumbsup:
Yes, that's a lot of questions...sorry, been up since 5 with the dogs, pot o coffee:D:eek:
Great hang, great pair of axes:):thumbsup:
I would like a peek at this "pile" of yours where you had this beauty for years...when I read that I envisioned this heap of axe heads and tools heads just in the corner of your shop area all only goodies, each trying to work their way to the top to get your attention:thumbsup::cool::D
Thanks man:thumbsup:
 
MuleMan....
Excellent work. Thank you for the pictorial. Very professional fit and finish. Enjoy your "new"
Belknap's.
Charles
 
Here's a nice Belknap 3.2 double bit head I've had in the pile for years and years. Finally mounted it on a nice NOS handle.

The handle
VeGQGjk.jpg


The plan
DJQGvZr.jpg



The fit
CgfxUuG.jpg


oZKoDZ6.jpg

s6o8rTy.jpg


MTKTa0W.jpg


AzOr2LA.jpg


d4Hbrzk.jpg


The fatwood wedge
FxSk6an.jpg


rU1lt5G.jpg


The oil
2E4yuzT.jpg


The end result
ZjmFJtR.jpg




The pair
XmNF2t3.jpg


pOu4bZM.jpg


ClTCEYI.jpg


N8RVdIx.jpg


Pretty good match I think :)

Fine looking axes Muleman!
 
:thumbsup:
That's a great process in pictures you shared, thanks! The fatwood looked good with resin you shaved a wedge from, is that Ponderosa Pine?
I never tire of seeing your anvil:cool:
Did you use a drift to hammer the head down to carve the ridge lines?
Is it to soon to assume you may be taking these boys out to work this week?:thumbsup:
Yes, that's a lot of questions...sorry, been up since 5 with the dogs, pot o coffee:D:eek:
Great hang, great pair of axes:):thumbsup:
I would like a peek at this "pile" of yours where you had this beauty for years...when I read that I envisioned this heap of axe heads and tools heads just in the corner of your shop area all only goodies, each trying to work their way to the top to get your attention:thumbsup::cool::D
Thanks man:thumbsup:

Yes, ponderosa pine, doug fir I have found to be a little brittle for wedges. I use the root base off ponderosa, it's pretty wavy grain and holds up to the driving in.

I just fit a ridged axe like it doesn't have them, and driving it on by hitting on the handle swell carves the grooves. You have to mind that you start it the same in the on and offs of fitting, but it's not much different. Just used the drift to knock it out after the test fits like usual.

I have been taking out the Jersey for 5 or 6 years now. I'll try out the double this next few days.

Your vision of my shop is not far off. It's small, and there are a lot of piles!

Great job all around. The oil, BLO I assume?

And you can't go teasing us by showing us only the legs of your treadle grinder. Lets see the rest. Is it a Richards-Wilcox?

It's Danish oil. I use it, BLO or mix the two when I'm running low on one or the other. All seems to end similar, but I like the darker color in the Danish oil. Walnut I think is what this one is.

This grinder has been in the family a long time. Cant say im sure on the brand.The stone is wonky, but I replaced a rod, tightened things up and fixed a bearing and it all pedalscand spins good again. I "adjusted" the stone as a kid, that's why it's the way it is. Have yet to fix that, or replace it. I've got another nice big stone too, that might work.

Hk6eT1b.jpg
 
Nice work, and an awesome pair of Belknap axes!

Bluegrass axes are pretty common around here. There were two hardware stores that sold Bluegrass tools within a few miles of each other.

Thanks, they are good axes. Mostly TT made I assume. I've got a couple others, with the older, smaller stamp. But they arent that common here out West.
Ones a 5 lb double, might throw it on soon as well!
 
I've found it much easier to hang an eye-ridged axe on a haft that has no kerf yet. Alternately, fitting a wedge that barely fills the kerf also works. Other wise the kerf acts like a spring and jams the axe head without sufficiently scribing the ridge lines. First time I hung one on an un-kerfed haft changed my world.
 
I've found it much easier to hang an eye-ridged axe on a haft that has no kerf yet. Alternately, fitting a wedge that barely fills the kerf also works. Other wise the kerf acts like a spring and jams the axe head without sufficiently scribing the ridge lines. First time I hung one on an un-kerfed haft changed my world.

I very much agree with this. This is a 2.5lb Black Ridge-eye that I am setting on a cut-down vintage 36”. There is a ways to go to drop it (it thickens up about half way through the eye as is). I am not against ridges at all – most make really good tools.

Not having a kerf cut when fitting them is best case scenario.

Unkerf.full.to.boy’s
by Agent Hierarchy


Unkerf.full.to.boy’s
by Agent Hierarchy
 
Put a piece of wedge in the kerf of the cruiser i did last,worked great.Thanks for that Square_peg.Do you think that black eye head is a woodsman?
 
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