What is your dream forging press?

fitzo said:
One other thought, Mike, because I'm not sure of the scale: remember to make the handle holes large enough to stick a welding-gloved hand through. I know you've almost certainly thought of that, but at worst all I waste is a post... ;) :)
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How about an air cylinder behind the die plate and a foot pedal. When you want the die to come out, step on the pedal and it shoots the die out the front of the press at a high rate of speed.;) :D

Lets add some more cost to this thing. :D
 
adammichael said:
How about an air cylinder behind the die plate and a foot pedal. When you want the die to come out, step on the pedal and it shoots the die out the front of the press at a high rate of speed.;) :D

Lets add some more cost to this thing. :D
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Personally, I thought you had gotten somewhat lazy with a single-die setup. :p I was hoping for something with a dual turret mechanism or at least a robot and touch-screen digital control. :D :footinmou
 
fitzo said:
Personally, I thought you had gotten somewhat lazy with a single-die setup. :p I was hoping for something with a dual turret mechanism or at least a robot and touch-screen digital control. :D :footinmou
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you beat me to the turret Idea :D
I was thinking like the turret lathes are set up :D



Mike I like the slag waste set up.. :D
now if we can make the dies keep a variable heat up to about 1950 deg's we'll cut out the forge altogether. and heat treat with it also. :)
 
fitzo said:
Personally, I thought you had gotten somewhat lazy with a single-die setup. :p I was hoping for something with a dual turret mechanism or at least a robot and touch-screen digital control. :D :footinmou
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Heaters built into the die holders. Hmmmm.

Screw it!!! I'll just buy damascus.
 
adammichael said:
Screw it!!! I'll just buy damascus.
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Well, all's not lost, regardless. Put some nice brass hooks on it and the frame'll make a nice stable coatrack in a sorta "NY loft-industrial chic" sorta way........ :D
 
fitzo said:
Well, all's not lost, regardless. Put some nice brass hooks on it and the frame'll make a nice stable coatrack in a sorta "NY loft-industrial" sorta way........ :D
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a very sophisticated adjustable coat hanger and nut cracker combo
it will make it worth twice as much.. :D
 
Bowie, Maybe this might get your attention the quickest. At this time I got the Red Beast on the back of my pickup. Now to make a hole in my shop and see if I can get it unloaded. I checked on where it might be this morning and found out it came in last night. Everything looks like its in great shape! THANKS ALOT!
 
Ray Im glad you received it .and it in good shape I was really empresses with the people at ForwardAir with their service and help .
hope you had the same impression on unloading the press ,
Again I want to thank you for your understanding on the delayed delivery , and I hope you have received all that you expected .

Mike Kanter, I know that you have been perplexed ,excited understood ,misunderstood ,
and I know it seams that there is no light at the end of the tunnel .that it`s a lot of work ( time consuming ) it Is , all new way`s have have new problems . It’s the building and problem solving that drags us down , but they are also up sides that make it worth the time , number one your willingness to shear the process with all of us .I thank you for that as do others im sure .

To allow us to stand around in your shop and watch this fine press come together is totally amazing to me and explore new ways to do thing is not only good for us all -it also make us think and in that it educate us and those that have never used or built a press to understand more of what its all about , when some one has a better understanding they make better decisions .

I have found that those that like building their own tools will build them , those that don’t have the skill or time stop what they are doing to build buy what they need . But threads like this help to educate them .
Trust me they will be a day that you will look up and be proud of that big red machine that you have built .
Another down side is you will be pissed because you did not build it sooner
Thanks Mike for your time in shearing .

Mike have a good day and keep up the good work ,remember this is your Dream press.
Bowie headed to the shop .
 
Thanks for the support Ron. It is more frustrating than I thought it would be (making it and posting it on Bladeforums) but i would do it again in a second.


I was right, my second shot at the die plate lock system doesnt suck as much. IT STILL SUCKS THOU. I made it and found that the dies go in, (thanks Daniel, I reshaped the lock) but it doesnt lock the die in. I think i need to lower the pivot point and do a little more reshaping. The question I have is it even worth it to try it? Any comments from experienced users about that?
How thick should the die plates be? Is 3/8" enough or do they need to be 1/2"? Could they be 1/4"?
 
die plate lock.

personally 3/8" sounds good to me. A simple cam on the side of the plate is what I'm going with.

I used that same principal on my camlock hardy-hole in my shop built anvil.
The hardy doesn't bounce around and it is a simple tap with anything thing to hand to lock it in place.
 
adammichael said:
Thanks for the support Ron. It is more frustrating than I thought it would be (making it and posting it on Bladeforums) but i would do it again in a second.


I was right, my second shot at the die plate lock system doesnt suck as much. IT STILL SUCKS THOU. I made it and found that the dies go in, (thanks Daniel, I reshaped the lock) but it doesnt lock the die in. I think i need to lower the pivot point and do a little more reshaping. The question I have is it even worth it to try it? Any comments from experienced users about that?
How thick should the die plates be? Is 3/8" enough or do they need to be 1/2"? Could they be 1/4"?
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Mike
though you're working on the lower one doesn't it present a problem for the top one , pertaining to the lock set up as is. unless it was spring loaded
and revamped as you mention..

I wonder just what pressure is needed to keep the dies from moving? while knowing you have side ways pressure, you also have downward pressure helping to keep them from sliding. I know you know this anyway but it may spur a thought in another direction.. :confused:
 
Sweany said:
die plate lock.

personally 3/8" sounds good to me. A simple cam on the side of the plate is what I'm going with.

I used that same principal on my camlock hardy-hole in my shop built anvil.
The hardy doesn't bounce around and it is a simple tap with anything thing to hand to lock it in place.
Click to expand...
Could you post a pic of what your doing?
 
Dan Gray said:
Mike
though you're working on the lower one doesn't it present a problem for the top one , pertaining to the lock set up as is. unless it was spring loaded
and revamped as you mention..
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gravity is free and it never breaks.

I have a lock design that ive been using here at work for the last 2 years. I havent drawn it yet but i am going to use the same thing for the top die.
 
adammichael said:
gravity is free and it never breaks.

I have a lock design that ive been using here at work for the last 2 years. I havent drawn it yet but i am going to use the same thing for the top die.
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absolutely.
I know the weight of the lock can be changed to do what you want on what you've shown so far.

.just Ideas.. :)
 

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One more time.

The light blue spacer holds the front of the die down. It might also scrape the slag and other crap off the die when you pull it out. The tabs in the back of the die plate fit into the blue frame and holds the back of the die down and locks it in left to right. The lock raises up when the die is inserted and drops back down to lock the die in place (front to back).

Push the back of the red lock down and pull the handle to remove the die.

Am I over analyzing this whole die issue? Does this have any merit? Should I just weld some angle on and be done with it? Do I need some type of psychiatric help.
 
adammichael said:
One more time.

The light blue spacer holds the front of the die down. It might also scrape the slag and other crap off the die when you pull it out. The tabs in the back of the die plate fit into the blue frame and holds the back of the die down and locks it in left to right. The lock raises up when the die is inserted and drops back down to lock the die in place (front to back).

Push the back of the red lock down and pull the handle to remove the die.

Am I over analyzing this whole die issue? Does this have any merit? Should I just weld some angle on and be done with it?
Click to expand...

cool I like it...
I wonder if the pivot point being high will try to lift the lock,, of course
if it was set father back the pivot point height
would have less effect on it and it would make for a chance
for more weight to the front for gravity to work it's magic even more...
I hope you don't mind my input here..looking good..
 
Dan Gray said:
cool I like it...
I wonder if the pivot point being high will try to lift the lock,, of course
if it was set father back the pivot point height
would have less effect on it and it would make for a chance
for more weight to the front for gravity to work it's magic even more...
I hope you don't mind my input here..looking good..
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I dont mind anyones input when they agree with me;) :D

I will laser this out and see what happens. If i have to lower it i can do it.
 
adammichael said:
I dont mind anyones input when they agree with me;) :D
.
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:D

on a machinists stand point, I'd set them up with mini hydraulic
self centering vice dowel pined and bolted into place

where you have the hydraulic pressure there anyway :D
 
looks like the die is "impacting" the cyan spacer bar (the 3D model, anyway).


Are you going to put a spring on the lock? it would help, I think.
 
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