What knife would you like to see next from CPK?

I'd like to see an OTF automatic from the Shiv bloodline one day

Like Nathan's take on a DKW Sandshark...but instead of punching through 55 gallon drums it'll be cinderblocks in the video!:thumbsup:

I think maybe just a regular folder is the next best step when going from producing fixed blades
Spoilsport...dream big:p
 
Field knife with the blade edge 25-35 degrees closer to cutting my knuckles

An L shaped field knife

fieLd knife?
L knife ... no.
Call it whatever. Just. Please?

How about if I post pictures of boobs in w&c and send you the links?

That way, you know that they're especially for you.
 
What comes to mind when you think of a Bird & Trout knife? Any quintessential examples?

You'll find B&T knives that will have anywhere from around a 3" to a near a 5" blade (my personal preference is 3 1/2 to 4" cutting edge) ... it's thin stock good for filleting a fish or cleaning birds and small game ... it is a great cutter ... and carries easily.

I hunt quite a bit still and upland bird hunting might very well be my favorite of all ... I love watching good dogs work and the action can be fast and the eating ain't bad either. I do use fillet knives for a larger fish but a good B&T can be used in a pinch ... but sometimes just fishing crappie and bluegill a small B&T is a great option. I think one of the first knives I carried most was a B&T type and they are just handy IMHO for everyday tasks too.

You can find knives in a lot of different shapes and sizes these days that are labeled B&T knives ... some I think are a reach but they could work. The few things I look for in them are ...
A good point for easy clean penetration yet strong enough to not break easily ... thinner blade stock and great cutting geometry (a flat grind is my preference on these although others can work) ... they have to be nimble to handle ... and though focused on cutting I like a strong blade steel because it will contact bone on occasion no way around that cleaning fish and game.

I think the attention to detail and feel of CPK's handles and the balance of their knives coupled with the performance of the steels they use would make a great lightweight nimble B&T! I am anxious to try Nathan's tweaked AEB-L on the DEK1 that could be a great choice for a B&T in a stainless steel but the D3V doesn't stain easily and could be a good choice too.

I have no pictures on this new laptop of B&Ts ... one I use often for it is a Knives of Alaska Jaeger knife one in D2 and one in ATS-34 (was sold as a boning knife) ... I have an older unlabeled B&T in a carbon steel with a slightly bigger blade than the Jaeger and a mild drop point to the blade that I really like for that use.
 
Thanks for expanding, this builds a good mental picture.

A good point for easy clean penetration yet strong enough to not break easily ... thinner blade stock and great cutting geometry (a flat grind is my preference on these although others can work) ... they have to be nimble to handle ... and though focused on cutting I like a strong blade steel because it will contact bone on occasion no way around that cleaning fish and game.

I've found a number of thinner knives with flat grinds to cut poorly compared to thicker knives with a hollow grind. A 12" hollow grind on a 5/32" blade stock would make a very opinionated cutting machine—would you agree?

There's a balance with smaller knives of the blade-to-handle ratio. I've seen a number of "bird & trout" style knives (CRK Inyoni comes to mind recently but also the Knives of Alaska Jaeger you mentioned) with a fairly full sized handle (4.75" on the Jaeger) with a rather small blade (3.5" on the Jaeger). This would facilitate an excellent and wide variety of grips, but would also put it into a larger knife bucket.

Imagine a 3.25" blade and a 3.75" handle running on 5/32" blade stock and a 12" hollow grind. Reasonable Bird & Trout? Or simply every day utility?
 
Thanks for expanding, this builds a good mental picture.



I've found a number of thinner knives with flat grinds to cut poorly compared to thicker knives with a hollow grind. A 12" hollow grind on a 5/32" blade stock would make a very opinionated cutting machine—would you agree?

There's a balance with smaller knives of the blade-to-handle ratio. I've seen a number of "bird & trout" style knives (CRK Inyoni comes to mind recently but also the Knives of Alaska Jaeger you mentioned) with a fairly full sized handle (4.75" on the Jaeger) with a rather small blade (3.5" on the Jaeger). This would facilitate an excellent and wide variety of grips, but would also put it into a larger knife bucket.

Imagine a 3.25" blade and a 3.75" handle running on 5/32" blade stock and a 12" hollow grind. Reasonable Bird & Trout? Or simply every day utility?


A smaller handle and smaller blade can make a great B&T ... a 3.75" handle for me would be absolute minimum ... at least 4" a much better fit for me ... a hollow grind can be a great cutter ... I just haven't found a B&T with one that worked as well as the flat grind B&Ts I have had ... that could definitely be remedied by a well made blade with a well done high hollow grind.

I like a bit larger handle only because my hands are a bit larger ... but if the knife has good balance and handles well a smaller size is acceptable to me ... again to me a true B&T is a bit larger than the super small edcs/capers some label as a B&T ... size isn't the only factor for a good B&T IMO. I have went from a smaller (shorter blade length and height both) to a longer slightly taller blade through the years ... and finally settled somewhere in the middle on length ... with the blade height being less as my preference for the balance of chores.

For me the B&Ts on the smaller side work well for filleting small fish but aren't as versatile for larger fish and don't work as well for me on birds and small game. But if the handle is too large it can get in the way also ... so there is a fine line for the sweet spot I think. I have cleaned a deer with a small slip joint and filleted fish with a serrated steak knife in a pinch but it wouldn't be my preference in either case.

That's one reason I would like to see CPK's take on a B&T since they focus so much on the handle and balance of their knives. I wasn't lucky enough to get a tator knife but I can imagine the geometry on that things is one hell of a cutter and I think what they could do on a B&T would be outstanding.
 
That's one reason I would like to see CPK's take on a B&T since they focus so much on the handle and balance of their knives. I wasn't lucky enough to get a tator knife but I can imagine the geometry on that things is one hell of a cutter and I think what they could do on a B&T would be outstanding.

The things that mean a lot to me from CPK are (in no particular order):

1. Precision machining. Every single plunge, cut, and chamfer, is spot on, even, and consistent.
2. (Goes well with #1) Handles. The handles are well designed and fitted perfectly.
3. Clear presentation of value. They are designed to cut, designed to be used, and a lot of focus is on the utility and function. They aren't just extremely well made, they are excellent tools.

I think an execution in the smaller/thinner space would be really something fun to see from Carothers.
 
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