Please accept my apology. I have read "vs" in the sentence "Wicked Edge vs. Edge Pro" as "comparison of Wicked Edge and Edge Pro" instead of "fight of Wicked Edge and Edge Pro".No, if you read my original post (and it looks like you did not), you would understand that I'm looking for people who HAVE compared product A to product B, and decided on one based on what they liked about one, or didn't like about the other. Again though, since you don't seem to understand the question, at least do us all a favor and stay out of the conversation...
Please accept my apology. I have read "vs" in the sentence "Wicked Edge vs. Edge Pro" as "comparison of Wicked Edge and Edge Pro" instead of "fight of Wicked Edge and Edge Pro".
I hope I'm allowed to give an extra comment because I know a few people who 1) sold from WE over EP 2) use both WE and EP. The reasons why people choose after ownership are completely different from the reason for 1st purchase. When a person favors Edge Pro over WE for the first purchase, he says something like "it's unsafe, it's impossible to sharpen odd shapes without reclamping, stones are expensive". When people sell WE, many cannot explain why they sell WE - they say something like "it's uncomfortable for me". In my opinion, it depends on how ambidextrous is the person. People who rely on burr development cannot use WE but they realize it after purchase only. Customers who use both in commercial sharpening are the most interesting. They say that WE is faster in setup and sharpening but not for all knives.
Maybe I'm over stepping my bounds but I request and would love to hear . . . since you have EXTENSIVE experience with sharpening and I assume BOTH EP and WE . . . the high points of the WE for you.I switched from EP pro to Wicked Edge but not the other way like you are asking. Sorry!
....People who rely on burr development cannot use WE but they realize it after purchase only. ....
One of my great uncles was a free hand sharpener and his edges were always shaving sharp. His technique was an edge trailing stroke on one side, then flip and repeat for the other side. I will point out, however, that uncle Nathan had the patiece of Job. If it took him half a day to sharpen a blade, he just smiled and said "so be it."
Glock dude. Thank you for that info. I was not with familiar with Rockstead, but you've aroused my curiosity.
I've been using a little technique for removing micro-burrs, that seems to work well on the high end steels.
I make a slight, VERY LITE PRESSURE cut into the end of a piece of balsa.
Sometimes need to repeat. Looking at it under my cheap digital microscope at 20X, the burrs disasppear.
...My favorite stones right now are a 1k Nubatama Platinum Hard and a 3k Nubatama Platinum Hard that came from Ken Schwartz. He suggested these as the solution to some challenges I was having with Maxamet. I've found that despite being pretty hard, they still cut nicely enough, and they leave an excellent finish. They've done nicely on everything from Maxamet to some old German stainless Henkels in the kitchen.