Microforge Technology...

[HeavyHanded]

I think I scared WorkSharp off, (asking for early shipping).

I got the "MicroForge" M3 Sharpener in a few days ago, and have been trying it out.



The diamond rod is rated "320 grit"... like most diamonds it feels more coarse new... right now probably comparable to a DMT XC stone (which is around 60 micron). The ceramic isn't rated in the material... like most quality ceramics it feels "fine" around 1200g or so. Half of the WorkSharp ceramic is actually ribbed, making it a bit more aggressive (although I haven't tested to see if it leaves a more coarse finish than the "unribbed" portion... it is better at cleaning up an edge though).



I tried this... it appears, since the Microforge is basically a "ribbed wheel", it quickly 'finds' and aligns itself with the previous use.

As for the MicroForge, I would say it works as advertised. I've tested it on a few "common" kitchen knives (Henckels International, Faberware, Tramontina NSF knives... it is the "Culinary" division after all), and here's what I would say:

• Ease of Use: Definitely an 'A' in this category. Following the included instructions, the knives came out looking just like the advertising, and performed well.
• Quality: I'd give an 'A' here too. The setup is durable, and should last the average user a lifetime.
• The MicroForge Edge: After sharpening the knife entirely on the 'M3', it passed all the standard tests... paper slicing, shaving arm hair, etc. To the touch (3 finger test), you can feel the fine "roughness" of the edge... not really "teeth" like a serration, but it does make the edge more aggressive. As mentioned earlier, there's a bit of a "zipper feel", to the touch, and as the edge cuts, but it didn't hang or seem to affect the overall performance. (Another example, you can lightly run the edge of a fingernail both directions down the edge, and it feels like a "zipper" but doesn't hang).
• For a sample test... I sharpened two identical knives the same, then gave one knife a MicroForge edge. I then tested the knife on a squishy tomato, and it clearly performed better at penetrating and starting the initial cut (once this was done, there really wasn't a difference between the two). I then cut a bit of cardboard, and could tell the Microforge edge was a bit more aggressive in slicing thru. (I would "mix up" the knives in both tests... in an effort to not know which was which, although I know there's bias/issues in this method). Other testing produced similar results. I haven't done any longevity testing, so can't say if it will be different long term.

Overall, my initial impression is it works as advertised... easily, and with little "know-how", creating an edge that gives a bit of bite, and exhibiting some of the benefits of a coarse or even a 'small serrated' edge, while maintaining the use and ease of maintenance of a straight edge. I don't think it's an "earth shattering" development for regular members of this forum... I'm sure most sharpeners here are capable of putting a better edge on a knife, but it should give the average home user a simple yet effective way of creating and maintaining a great "working edge" (or even a commercial sharpener, who wants a quick and easy way to finish an edge, and leave it with a bit of "bite", and especially beneficial if it increases the length of time the edge cuts). I can see the potential of giving someone you sharpen a knife for, that does little maintenance, a more aggressive and (potentially) longer lasting edge, as well as an edge they can maintain easily. It would be nice if it came with a little "storage pouch" or something to keep it all together. It'll be interesting to see if I can tell a difference in performance over time between the two knives.

Was there any difference in straight on press cutting? Dicing a carrot, pressure cutting straight into a piece of rope etc.

Thanks for the review!

 

[cbwx34]

Was there any difference in straight on press cutting? Dicing a carrot, pressure cutting straight into a piece of rope etc.

Thanks for the review!

Good question... was thinking more of slicing. No carrots, but I push cut some rope and some cardboard (both into the edge, and by laying it flat, and the non-MicroForge edge won in all cases (in fact struggled to push cut the rope). (See if these results also hold up over time).

 

[HeavyHanded]

Good question... was thinking more of slicing. No carrots, but I push cut some rope and some cardboard (both into the edge, and by laying it flat, and the non-MicroForge edge won in all cases (in fact struggled to push cut the rope). (See if these results also hold up over time).

Alright, that's what I would expect but it would be very cool if it managed to retain most of its pressure cutting efficiency.

 

[UnknownVT]

UnknownVT, you did a great job sharing your experience at Blade Show with our Work Sharp Outdoors brand manager. Know that how hard you are willing to push on a knife, will determine how deep and how pronounced the microforging will appear, therefore you will notice it more or less depending on how hard you push. Per our instructions we say to apply “downward pressure like cutting a sweet potato.” This can vary depending on the sweet potato, so throwing out the spec of 2-4 lbs of downward force may help. This range ensures people are safe and that the resulting microforge is easily removable. If people want more they can do it, and likely will as they get more use to it.

Thanks, sorry I'm so late responding - my subscription/notification seemed to have missed this.

Anyway.... I saw the post below -

I got the "MicroForge" M3 Sharpener in a few days ago, and have been trying it out.
...
Overall, my initial impression is it works as advertised... easily, and with little "know-how", creating an edge that gives a bit of bite, and exhibiting some of the benefits of a coarse or even a 'small serrated' edge, while maintaining the use and ease of maintenance of a straight edge. I don't think it's an "earth shattering" development for regular members of this forum... I'm sure most sharpeners here are capable of putting a better edge on a knife, but it should give the average home user a simple yet effective way of creating and maintaining a great "working edge"
...
It'll be interesting to see if I can tell a difference in performance over time between the two knives.

Thank you for this.

I have to declare my bias - even though I have no commercial affiliation with WorkSharp - I am (along with Ken Onion) an enthusiast of the MicroForge technology.

As mentioned I have been a user of MF (MicroForge) since 2015 - and in June/2015 Blade Show I "risked" my favorite kitchen knife a hand forged Shigeki Tanaka stainless steel "Damascus" Santoku and asked Kyle Crawford to put a MF edge on it.

This had been in daily use, until BladeShow June/2017 when I asked Dan Dovel to re-MF the edge. Dan re-ground/sharpened the edge to get a clean plain edge using the blade grinder attachment on a Ken Onion edition of WSKT sharpener

I also asked him to put a MF edge on the cut down 135mm hand forged Shigeki Tanaka stainless steel "Damascus" Petty knife - I bought this and it was really a 150mm Petty that had been very crudely cut down to 135mm - but since I really wanted a 135mm utility knife I tried to modify it so the cut down was not so crude - the result was I had to re-profile not just the edge itself but the entire edge curve (grinding off the edge and re-establishing it) - not ideal but functional. Dan helped me re-profile the edge more, then applied the MF.

In the pic is the 60x LED microscope I used to take the detailed pics.

Both these knives have been in daily use since Blade - so some 3 months - other than a paring knife, I don't use any other kitchen knives.

These are the crude pics using that <$3 phone clip microscope -
Santoku

max mag of MF -

Reverse side of Santoku

can see the deformation
But note how thin this blade it as the bevel is so thin/narrow, and from the overall pic the blade face is convex almost like a zero-bevel convex blade - this is why it cuts so well, and even better with the MF edge.

135mm Petty
this has a wider bevel because of the modification -

reverse side

So the edges are holding up well and the knives really cut well even after 3 months - I really enjoy the cutting ability and even more important to me the the fine control I have over the blades.

Below are some professional microscope pics Dan Dovel sent me -

--
Vincent

Flickr.com/UnknownVincent/albums
Youtube.com/user/vtVincent
Goo.gl/q91ZNw
UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
UnknownVT.Shutterfly.com

 

[cbwx34]

Want some more detail... here's the patent info...

Cutting Edge with Microscopically Sized Channels to Enhance Cutting Performance

 

[CLoeffler]

I think I scared WorkSharp off, (asking for early shipping).

Not at all! Apologies... my alerts were on so I didn't receive a notification you had posted!

 

[CLoeffler]

What is the micron number for the M3 diamond rod?
What is the micron number for the polished ceramic rod?

Rupert

Diamond Rod- 320 / Ceramic Rod- 12

What happens if the little serration channels don't line up through various microforgings?

They tend to fall in line every time.

 

[rlucius]

Diamond Rod- 320 / Ceramic Rod- 12



They tend to fall in line every time.

Thank you CLoeffler for the info grit and micron numbers.

My thoughts are that the M3 will work as advertised.

Again thanks
Rupert

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

Based on Vicent's pic:

For a given cutting force - PSI of edge geometry above has more than twice PSI of a perfect apex plane because cutting contact area is less than half. It is similar to refined toothy edge, except MF teeth are larger and spread out and retains same sharpening effort.

While serration drastically increased penetration PSI and inset edges are facing cutting material at higher angle (toward and around perpendicular) with about same or higher PSI depend on material types. Conceptually, MF & coarse toothy edges have discontinous apex plane - hence, they have shorter edge than a perfect flat straight edge (FSE). A perfect serration has longer edge than FSE.

Curve edge (edge belly) also has reduced contact entry area, thus higher PSI than FSE. Put MF on an edge belly would increase PSI even more...

Claw/Hook/etc profiles employ high psi dig+ hi psi rip/cut PSI scheme for front half of the blade.

For everyday/common/normal usages, edge PSI is a very large factor in edge retention assessment. e.g. working edge when work get done with less than N amt of force. I expect, MF wear resistant be lower than coarse toothy, which is lower than FSE - of course, must keep same contact PSI for all these edges when assessing wear resistant.

 

[cbwx34]

I MicroForged a Dividend I’m EDCing...

...followed by stropping on HH's Washboard. Unlike yesterday, this knife both slices and pushcuts well. (Figured I'd use this knife with a little more variety than a kitchen knife... so a better "tester").

(Can't really tell, but the knife is sitting on a "towel" with the image shown in the top left photo, that came with the sharpeners that were pre-ordered... just thought it was kinda cool).

 

[cbwx34]

One thing I noted this afternoon... if you spend a bit more time cleaning up the edge on the side opposite the MicroForge wheel (so if you push it thru the slot with your right hand... the left side of the blade), both with the ceramic rod, and/or a strop... it greatly improves the edge. In other words... don't treat both sides the same... a bit extra on the opposite side, (which makes sense I reckon, since that's where the metal goes....).

 

[jeffreykoh]

I MicroForged a Dividend I’m EDCing...

...followed by stropping on HH's Washboard. Unlike yesterday, this knife both slices and pushcuts well. (Figured I'd use this knife with a little more variety than a kitchen knife... so a better "tester").

(Can't really tell, but the knife is sitting on a "towel" with the image shown in the top left photo, that came with the sharpeners that were pre-ordered... just thought it was kinda cool).

Is the space between the serrations in the Kershaw much narrower than the one on the kitchen knife? Are we able to choose the "spacings"?

 

[cbwx34]

Is the space between the serrations in the Kershaw much narrower than the one on the kitchen knife? Are we able to choose the "spacings"?

The spacing is the same, it cannot be adjusted. Basically, the knife passes over a wheel with equally spaced ridges, to create the “micro-facets”. (You can alter how deep they go, to some degree, based on how much pressure you apply).

 

[cbwx34]

A CPM-110V blade... (just to see if it would work)

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

cbwx34 - thanks for MF test on s110v How hard is this edge?

* Just to be clear - my takes on MF is purely technical, thus try my best to interpret data as presented.

This MF-ed s110v edge consists of visible fractured/chipped and low radius creases (probably mamy hairline cracks). Hard whittles or light impacts could result with large (taller than creases) chips. MF works best on blades with high ductility (low hrc and low carbide volume).

 

[HeavyHanded]

I MicroForged a Dividend I’m EDCing...

...followed by stropping on HH's Washboard. Unlike yesterday, this knife both slices and pushcuts well. (Figured I'd use this knife with a little more variety than a kitchen knife... so a better "tester").

(Can't really tell, but the knife is sitting on a "towel" with the image shown in the top left photo, that came with the sharpeners that were pre-ordered... just thought it was kinda cool).

I think MF should include a Washboard with every unit, they seem made for each other!

 

[cbwx34]

cbwx34 - thanks for MF test on s110v How hard is this edge?

* Just to be clear - my takes on MF is purely technical, thus try my best to interpret data as presented.

This MF-ed s110v edge consists of visible fractured/chipped and low radius creases (probably mamy hairline cracks). Hard whittles or light impacts could result with large (taller than creases) chips. MF works best on blades with high ductility (low hrc and low carbide volume).

I don't know how hard the edge is... I can tell it's harder than any other knife I've MicroForged so far... simply because the indentations aren't as deep.

I'm not sure you can 'read' that much into my pictures (cracks, chips, etc.)... this knife became a test knife a while back... and has been "sharpening abused" for lack of a better term. You can see the numerous bevels, uneven grind lines, etc. I mostly just wanted to see if the MF would work on it. FWIW... I tried to snap some photos thru a 60x pocket scope (of the 110V)... not sure if it really helps or not though.

 

[cbwx34]

I think MF should include a Washboard with every unit, they seem made for each other!

I agree!!!

 

[CLoeffler]

One thing our designers did differently for the culinary line was to reverse the direction of the abrasive belt in the electric sharpeners. The reason? This places the "uphill" travel of the belt on the same side of the blade that the vast majority of people will be MicroForging. One swipe through on Refine mode and the MicroForged edge is in ideal condition for sharpness and durability.

They are getting out in the world, and we're pleased with the initial response from end-users. You guys have been fantastic at helping unpack what MF is. Hopefully some of those reviews can make it to Amazon ;-)

That said, I'd love to do something for everyone here who has actively contributed to the conversation. Any ideas?

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Actually...I'm kind of curious how that'd perform on European-style scythe blade edges...It's essentially notched peening, and aids in slicing cuts, so it'd be kind of a natural fit.