New ZT0550 Thread !!!

Yes. I have two now and just traded off a third. There is some level of press marks an all the studs. If they bother you I can see with a little work with some emery cloth strips you might be able to satin-ize those shiny streaks if you tape off the blade first.

One other very small machining quirk I see on them is a minor "stop point" on the edge of the Ti scale right adjacent to where the clip is attached. A very small raised part of the Ti edge. It looks like the start and stop point from the shaping of the Ti or where the grinding machine rounded that corner on the Ti slab.

jill jackson said:
So they are all like that?
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Thrill said:
I think that after you have it for a while and it gets broken in then it will open much better for you. I thought the same thing when I first got mine and now it is super smooth and opens like lighting. I used if for a couple of months and then took her apart to clean her up and it's been fantastic since then. Just my 2 cents.
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Excuse me, I can't type.

What I meant to write was, I can't close it unless I use two hands. Once it is open, the lock bar gets absolutely stuck, it takes two hands with a lot of force on the bar to get it to disengage.

Overall the fit and finish isn't what I would expect from a $200 knife. But the design is awesome.


-Freq
 
Reeek said:
Yes. I have two now and just traded off a third. There is some level of press marks an all the studs. If they bother you I can see with a little work with some emery cloth strips you might be able to satin-ize those shiny streaks if you tape off the blade first.
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Actually, it doesn't bother me if they all are the same. If mine was the exception it would. Anyway there's a reason it's like that and you have to look very close to see it, so no big deal.
 
Try the pencil or Sharpie trick on the tang of the blade; right where it contacts the lockbar. This will help the lockbar from getting stuck so bad.

freq18hz said:
Excuse me, I can't type.

What I meant to write was, I can't close it unless I use two hands. Once it is open, the lock bar gets absolutely stuck, it takes two hands with a lot of force on the bar to get it to disengage.

Overall the fit and finish isn't what I would expect from a $200 knife. But the design is awesome.


-Freq
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Thrill said:
Try the pencil or Sharpie trick on the tang of the blade; right where it contacts the lockbar. This will help the lockbar from getting stuck so bad.
Click to expand...

That's what I had to do on one of mine. It's been over a week and it's still not perfect, but it's getting there.
 
Thrill said:
Try the pencil or Sharpie trick on the tang of the blade; right where it contacts the lockbar. This will help the lockbar from getting stuck so bad.
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Sharpie and pencil does nothing.
Still requires me to use both hands on the lock bar, with a ton of force to disengage.

This is a bummer because I absolutely love the design of this knife otherwise, blemishes and all.

Anyone know what I can expect if I send this back? I mean, if they are a limited run, do they even have the means to fix/replace it?


-Freq
 
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I'd send it in, mine was the same way and then some. After sending it back I now have a very well fitted lock that's on par with how STR describes a CRK framelock.

Kershaw will take care of you, just call them.
 
freq18hz said:
Sharpie and pencil does nothing.
Still requires me to use both hands on the lock bar, with a ton of force to disengage.

This is a bummer because I absolutely love the design of this knife otherwise, blemishes and all.

Anyone know what I can expect if I send this back? I mean, if they are a limited run, do they even have the means to fix/replace it?


-Freq
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I suggest getting one of those springy things that increase thumb strength for gripping power. They also have those squeezy ball things that release tension. That may also work.
It's a man's knife and requires man power to use it.

Seriously, there have been a few other posts with possible solutions.
1) tighten up all the screws
2) you said you tried pencil. But, instead of pencil get real graphite that comes in a tube.
3) read my suggestion and just work the hell out of it to polish up the tang.
4) NO luck with 1-3? Send it in. KAI customer service is second to none.
 
Hey, Gnarly, etc, I got one!

Good news/bad news. My local pusher/enabler had three last Saturday. The demo was fine, so I just picked an unopened box - should have looked! The knife has a perfect edge - super sharp - and perfect, QC wise. Oops - the closed blade is slightly off-centered... and the action is stiff.I removed the clip, as I do all of my knives, and loosened the pivot and both side screws. I used a needle applicator and some clock oil on the pivot bushings and the lockbar ball. I then retightened the side screws and tightened the pivot until the action was acceptable. It's better, but the blade seems pushed to the G10 side - maybe 40% over; 60% to the lockbar side. Loosening the pivot screw gets it closer to the G10 side.

I like the knife - and it's action is acceptable - opens and closes one-handed, but not a 'flicker', that's for sure. I don't know if it is worth returning it for the slightly off-centered while closed nature or not. It is aggravating. The lockbar overlap is 40% or so - and released by my thumb while ty finger rotates the blade - with no problems. I compared the last few degrees of opening - until lockbar 'drop' with my 0301 - the 0551 is slightly slicker. Mine is #622. Should I leave well enough alone - or send it to the 'spa'? Have others noted a closed blade position determined by pivot screw tightness nature in their example? Thanks!

Stainz

PS One positive note... the store gave me a 'good customer' discount - left enough, with s/t, from the MSRP for a Mex lunch, which my wife wanted after seeing the 'Mexican steel blade' - El Max!!
 
^tighten the pivot all the way
loosen the handles screws (might just go ahead and remove the screws and apply locktight on them)
while tweaking the blade re-tighten handle screws
loosen pivot to desired position

watch this video for good visual explanation how to center blades.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NZT7Go0Ztk

good luck
 
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jill jackson said:
Does anyone notice the thumb stud on one side having "skinned" looking places all the way around it? Mine looks like they pushed it through and left the marks on the one side. Never seen that on any knife before. The stone washed blade when looking close looks like it was an excuse to leave some pretty good scratches on the blade's surface to me, also. Nothing like the evenness of say a Sebenza's stone wash blade finish. The lock bar on mine is fine and the blade centering perfect.

Here's the thumb stud you can see the marks on the upper side they go all the way around, are all of them left like that?
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I noticed it on both of mine, but didn't pay too much attention. I've relegated one to use and teh other is stashed away for a rainy day. Some 2000 grit paper and a single turn will leave them both looking the same. For a $200 knife, it's pretty much topshelf. I'm sure they could have easily made it perfect for another $300 though. :thumbup:
 
Hey RD I'm pretty sure this guy jj sold his ZT for cost. Some people, they just expect a $200 knife should be more like a $400 one. One could only wish that were possible...

and yea some very fine sandpaper and a little know how goes a long way for all us knife nuts. :)
 
40Degrees said:
Hey RD I'm pretty sure this guy jj sold his ZT for cost. Some people, they just expect a $200 knife should be more like a $400 one. One could only wish that were possible...

and yea some very fine sandpaper and a little know how goes a long way for all us knife nuts. :)
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:thumbup:
 
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