Next Production Run of the Bushcraft - suggestions?

Thicker handle is definitely a great idea.

Made a few pictures about possible improvements on handle.
IMHO current handle is a bit too short (my hands are moderatly large by the way) while there is a pretty big part that could be better used (see pic1) -I know, the "useless" qualification is a bit excessive, hence the "..."

It is pretty striking in "hammer" grip (pic2), your almost choking edge on the top while there's a large part protruding in the end

Plus the end "foot" or protruding part (circled area) is a bit too agressive in reverse grip see pic3.
I'd suggest to drag that "foot" lower so it gives a longer handle area and doesn"t get in the way, still keeping the knife retention function.

Pic1


Pic2


Pic3


Would also suggest using a thinner steel stock if 3V also that probably won't happen (could be possible on another steel A2 or O1 by the way?).
 
Blood grooves....., a saw back......., Hollow handle......, Compass cap.......pleather sheath,......YEAH!!!!!:D


Admit it, at some point in every one 40 and under's lives this was the end all be all.


one more thums up for Thicker handles
 
Neo said:
Dan, I have a bushcraft on order for about six months.
Please do not change anything !!! :(
It's just perfect as it is
Click to expand...


I have enough blades right now to fill all my current orders....no worries there.


If there is anybody that has one on order - and wants to jump in on a production run at a lower price - I say go for it! I'll gladly credit any leftover towards extras (sheath, kydex, firesteels, other orders, etc).



pitdog said:
Oh yeah and maybe a Koster knives pic competition to win a prototype !!!!:D:thumbup:
Click to expand...

sounds good to me!





So here are the ideas that appeal to me most right now:



  1. Wood handles option
  2. premium options (ironwood, tapered tang, etc)
  3. more guard (have already done this somewhat with the most recent batches)
  4. thinner blade (depends on the steel)
  5. more belly (assuming I keep the straight edge? or a curved profile?)
  6. steeper scandi grind
Here's what I'd propose in answer to the above:

  1. I'd like to do a small run with some stabilized woods - to get some real variety. But cost will definitely go up. Micarta is cheap and fast to make handles with. Would add $20 to each knife.
  2. I'm all for doing a premium options run...or even just as customized orders. Will have to think about it...requires more $$$...so it would have to be limited in quantity.
  3. I'll make up a new drawing - see what you guys think.
  4. I can't get CPM 3V any thinner than 0.145" - just ain't gonna happen. BUT, I just got off the phone with my supplier and I CAN get CPM D2 in 0.103" thickness. (oversize 3/32") Personally, I have been very impressed with CPM D2 so far...seems to perform very well compared to CPM 3V. Let's hear some opinions on this.
  5. My preference is to keep the straight edge...I can make the blade "taller"...but I don't want to curve it.
  6. Right now I'm doing them at 12.5 degrees. I can take larger knives down to even 8 degrees...but these little knives are pretty tough. I'm sure I can do 11 degrees....I tried 10 already and it's hard to keep it flat on the platen...I don't want QC problems just for the sake of 1 degree. I'd be willing to give 11 degrees a shot...especially if we go for the thinner steel.

Well...there we have it so far....let's hear more comments and opinions.

Once we get enough going....I'll post a poll and get some "numeric feedback". :D



On the 12C27/13C26 comment - I would be happy to use this steel as well. I can get it in 0.100" thickness (already have some - is great stuff). It's not as "hardcore" as CPM 3V or CPM D2...but is a great stainless option...and being from Sandvik (Sweden) it would be a nice compliment to the Bushcraft's design inspiration (Mora).


Dan
 
originally part of the design ideas behind the bushcraft was to make a nearly-bulletproof custom knife replacement for the Mora...and base it on the tried-n-tested puukko design.

I wanted to keep it light and friendly, but versatile.


I've made enough of these now (over 250 and counting) that a little change is ok with me...:D....if you want it 'old style'....keep an eye on the exchange.

I've never been one to sit back and rest on my laurels....I like testing...I like feedback...I like change as long as it's not "just because"....I like improvement.

So, let's make the next one better than the first...nothing wrong with that. The first run was great - learned a lot about knifemaking, about mass-producing....and about dealing with lotsa customers. :D (still learning!)


I definitely want to keep the cost low on this 2nd run. Not sure if I can score a $95 run or not this time...especially if we start adding options...but maybe I can tier out the pricing like the bushmaster - or even have 3 options....will have to see. I'm very sensitive to price...hey, I like a great deal too! :D



Dan
 
Daniel Koster said:
On the 12C27/13C26 comment - I would be happy to use this steel as well. I can get it in 0.100" thickness (already have some - is great stuff). It's not as "hardcore" as CPM 3V or CPM D2...but is a great stainless option...and being from Sandvik (Sweden) it would be a nice compliment to the Bushcraft's design inspiration (Mora).


Dan
Click to expand...

YES!!!!

which model, the 510?
 
Ravaillac

The reason for the "useless" part was actually to give a place for the lanyard so that it wasn't under your grip when you had the knife in hand. Clears it nicely.

Also, I can't cut too much of it off....look at your pics...see how the back part of your hand wraps around the spine at the base...and it's lower than where your fingers grab the blade....if I cut the handle shorter, you'll definitely feel it there...will poke into your palm...even worse for guys with large hands.

But, that said...I did address this issue a while back when I made the 2nd version...I lessened the angle of the butt - mostly to allow more room for larger-handed folks...but also to make reverse grip more comfortable.


I do understand what you mean though...I'm still exploring what the solution may be...we'll see what comes of it.


:thumbup:

Dan
 
Here's a new design to consider:

bushcraft0818.gif



Whatcha think?


Dan
 
Hey, one interesting imo would be to try a chisel-scandi version (keeping the same overall angle). It could show some assest in feather sticks making, ease of sharpening (only one side to sharpen) and would be OK for other tasks (chisels are often used as wood working tools after all).
 
Ravaillac said:
Hey, one interesting imo would be to try a chisel-scandi version (keeping the same overall angle). It could show some assest in feather sticks making, ease of sharpening (only one side to sharpen) and would be OK for other tasks (chisels are often used as wood working tools after all).
Click to expand...

It'll not be efficiënt in reverse grip I'm affraid..

How's about a rounded spine?
( I like that a lot when carving wood and pushing my thumb against the spine)

add a section of thumbserrations, and make the guard work with a firesteel..

If the steel would be 3V I wouldn't mind having it in 0.145 stock with a high sabre grind like the proto in the other thread. It'll still be very strong due to the steel, and It'll be an excellent cutter due to geometrie. More 'fragile' then earlier versions, but still a hell of a lot stronger then any Mora.. I would love to test that one out the hard way. I'm sure It'll be tough as nails... no tougher ..

Nice work Dan..
I don't mind the guard, as long as the edge runs all the way up to it like you do now..
 
Dan,

That design looks good. The gaurd looks good. It is hard to tell but is the blade also taller than the origonal model? A little taller blade would be better! What are the specs on the drawing?

Joel
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top