"Survivor" Design thread - let's wrap this up

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A2 is a strong possibility, guys!


Should we consider it?!?




Better corrosion resistance than 5160, and still pretty tough.


I'll need to check to see if I can get it at a decent price. :D


It will increase initial steel cost, but be less cost for heat-treat...so will even out in the end.



I'm going to go ahead and agree with you guys on the logo - I'll change that to be etched. I'm not worried about strength - I made one of mild steel with it cut out...had no luck bending it there whatsoever. My concern is "perceived strength"...don't want to even convey any doubts. Know what I mean?!?



Any more comments on the pommel?

I tried a design without it....just makes me miss it. :D
Adds a lot visually, and helps with balance.


As far as the flared butt is concerned...there is plenty of room there for even a large hand - you're not going to have problems with it digging into your hand. On the contrary, it helps "lock" your hand in place so that the butt doesn't ever get into your palm. Make sense?


Let's here more opinions/suggestions! :thumbup:
 
"open mind for a differrent view" THANKS!...t1mpani I just learned something new.
 
Okay one last thing and then I'll shut up :D

Might this be a possibility for the swedge grind? A flat swedge where the two swedge grinds don't meet--still gives the point more piercing utility but works better in batoning. I'm having a horrible time photographing this but...

IMG_1445.jpg

IMG_1446.jpg


Shouldn't be any harder to make, I wouldn't think. It also keeps a tiny bit more steel out at the end for weight/strength.
 
I like the swedge idea.

A2 is around twice the price of 5160. What about O1? Not sure if it has the characteristics your looking for but it's a little cheaper than A2.
 
Ditto the swedge idea, good compromise. I prefer the drop point to the more traditional bowie blade. I don't dig on the ring but I haven't really used blades that use those. Having a pommel is a cool idea.
 
pretty cool looking there dan....:thumbup: i really like #1..... except, i've never really been into the finger holes, on a fixed blade.... i could handle a choil of some sort though....:D
 
t1mpani - you hit the nail on the head. I need to put you on the payroll. :D


Thanks for the excellent pic!



That is EXACTLY what I plan on doing. Which is what I've been saying about the batoning still going to be ok.

Does that make sense to everybody?



I'd rather have 5160 than O1 (5160 is tougher and better corrosion resistance).

I can get A2 for about the price of O1...just a tad more.
 
Leave the pommel like it is.

Leave the flare... what you say makes perfect sense on that.

Consider adding the third Corby Bolt for added handle strength & durability.

#1 design
 
I like number 1 the best!
I could also live without the false edge on either, the tip would be stronger without it
(but not that much stronger without it i suppose).
Lately i'm just not into false edges, using moras too much i guess!
The idea of the third bolt sounds good as well.
:)
 
Looks like a great project Dan. I prefer #1 for bushcraft. I agree with others that the protruding pommel must go. Good luck.
 
Overall a beautiful, balanced design.
#2 is my vote by a splitting hair.

A couple of initial thoughts (sorry, I went to art school and whenever someone says "what do you think?" a critique is underway)

1. The logo, although very cool looking cut all the way through, may be a bit fussy for a tool of this stature/task. For me, the large ring should get all the attention in this area. Perhaps a slightly larger logo and deep-cut engraving? not centered in the space?

2. Just my eye but the lanyard/pommel end has a slight "skull crusher-ish" look. Not a bad thing for some knives and maybe it's just the 2-D drawing that's guiding my opinion. Perhaps my eye goes there because it appears to be the only symmetrical feature (centered on the butt) and a bit squared-off looking. I like the balanced asymmetry you developed throughout the rest of the knife...

A recent fan of your work. I'll take a natural canvas (that is when you post your order list)
 
I like the #1 design if I really had to pick. I will be interested as soon as you can make it happen !
 
Remove the metal lanyard protrusion on the handle. It looks like it would make it difficult to pommel push it. Make the lanyard hole integrated in the handle instead. Only critique I have of the design.
 
I like the looks of #2 best! Both are great looking designs!

However, the finger hole and "K" logo cutouts make me wonder about the strength in that area????? IF there is going to be a weak spot, my guess is it will be right there.
 
I like #1 a tinsey bit better than two. That being said, I'll probably end up with one either way... (sucks to an addict :D )
 
9" is to short for efficient chopping sans baton. We landed on a rule of thumb. the blade length should equal the distance between the operator's elbow and the center of his open palm. Anything longer or shorter is inefficient. The pommel has to go. What purpose does it serve? profile 1 would be the best chopper and 2 the most useful all around.
 
Plainsman said:
I like the looks of #2 best! Both are great looking designs!

However, the finger hole and "K" logo cutouts make me wonder about the strength in that area????? IF there is going to be a weak spot, my guess is it will be right there.
Click to expand...

The cutout logo is no more, says sir Dan--back to an etched one like usual. As to the ring--it really shouldn't make much difference in terms of strength. True there is less material there, but there is still a LOT of steel. There are no sharp corners in the geometry (read: stress risers) and an arch is an extremely strong geometric shape. This is why a hollow pipe is very nearly as strong as a solid bar of the same diamter, whereas a hollow square tube is nowhere near as strong as a solid square of barstock at the same size. The forces that area will be subjected to will distribute around the ring. Also, the steel above the ring has not yet begun the plunge into the main grind, giving a (assuming the ring didn't even exist) good 5/8" or 3/4" high strip of 1/4" thick steel between the handle and blade. This is nearly as much (if not more) steel as would be present in the same section of a flat ground blade with no ring. As the fulcrum point, yes this area will be subjected to the most stress and would likely be the failure point if it did, in fact, fail. I think that is highly unlikely, though. Like I said, I've done a fair amount of work with my Koster WSK which has a lot more sudden transitions (though always radiused, of course ;) ) in its geometry and it's never even sort of blinked.

As a point of reference, my Goloks from Valiant Company have stick tangs, and likely less consistency in their steel quality/heat treatment and I've never had one of their tangs fail, and their longer blades provide more lever arm to put stress on that juncture.
 
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