I like the flared handle, it would give you a good solid grip if youre swinging it hard with gloves on, or if the handle is wet. Same goes for the 2 lanyard holes in the handle, plenty of options for wrist loop. I could go either way on the pommel, but considering the 2 lanyard holes it seems kind of redundant. Maybe just a slight protrusion so you can hammer stuff with the butt end without damaging the handle scales.
"Survivor" Design thread - let's wrap this up
- Thread starter Daniel Koster
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Good call. Simple solution. For me the handle lanyard hole would perform like a hatchet.
t1mpani
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How about something like this? Instead of a more pointed pommel, a rounded section beyond the handle material (this keeps the scales/corbies from having to absorb impacts from hammering that aren't perfectly in line with the tang) with a flat area towards the top that would make the force of hammer blows directly in line with the point. This is an extremely crappy bit of photo editing but is basically what I mean:
i am not in a position to get one of these, but i can offer a bit on the design;
the handle curves remind me of an old axe handle that i have (no longer attached to an axe, it came with an antique axe and was all rotted around the eye) that has the most beautiful contours. i couldn't bring myself to throw it away. it has become my pattern. anways, the contours have a way of locking the hand in very solidly and preventing any slide whatsoever, a very secure grip. i think the handle is likely very solid and comfortable in the hand, based on the drawings.
i personally prefer the profile of #1, as it looks sturdier for chopping, without as much chance for tip failure. personally i would spend more time chopping saplings to make some weirs to catch fish in than chasing around boars in a survival situation, and i don't do any hunting outside of survival, so i don't need a finer point for peircing. also, the blade would probably balance a little bit more tip forward, to help in chopping.
i have never used a ring knife like this, but it seems like it would be a good way to choke up on the blade without worrying about slipping up onto the edge.
about the swedge, it seems like a swedge really needs to be all-or-nothing for function. if it is halfway, with some of the spine remaining, i don't see much increase in penetration ability over no swedge, but it will help your baton bite the dust a little faster than a plain spine. on the other hand, if the swedge is done all the way, there is quite a bit of increase in penetration, and will be nearly useless with a baton. in the middle seems like it more cosmetic than anything to me.
the handle curves remind me of an old axe handle that i have (no longer attached to an axe, it came with an antique axe and was all rotted around the eye) that has the most beautiful contours. i couldn't bring myself to throw it away. it has become my pattern. anways, the contours have a way of locking the hand in very solidly and preventing any slide whatsoever, a very secure grip. i think the handle is likely very solid and comfortable in the hand, based on the drawings.
i personally prefer the profile of #1, as it looks sturdier for chopping, without as much chance for tip failure. personally i would spend more time chopping saplings to make some weirs to catch fish in than chasing around boars in a survival situation, and i don't do any hunting outside of survival, so i don't need a finer point for peircing. also, the blade would probably balance a little bit more tip forward, to help in chopping.
i have never used a ring knife like this, but it seems like it would be a good way to choke up on the blade without worrying about slipping up onto the edge.
about the swedge, it seems like a swedge really needs to be all-or-nothing for function. if it is halfway, with some of the spine remaining, i don't see much increase in penetration ability over no swedge, but it will help your baton bite the dust a little faster than a plain spine. on the other hand, if the swedge is done all the way, there is quite a bit of increase in penetration, and will be nearly useless with a baton. in the middle seems like it more cosmetic than anything to me.
Nice design.
I prefer # 1.
The hole is larger than I would find preferable. My finger isn't nearly 1 inch wide. Also, that width is taking up more than necessary of the area that could be metal in that area in front of the handle, making the knife not quite as durable as it would be otherwise. Also, note that the ring might make the knife illegal in some states, such as, perhaps, California.
I'd prefer that the rear of the handle didn't curve downward quite so much; it looks like a pinkie crusher.
I'd prefer a full flat grind.
I prefer # 1.
The hole is larger than I would find preferable. My finger isn't nearly 1 inch wide. Also, that width is taking up more than necessary of the area that could be metal in that area in front of the handle, making the knife not quite as durable as it would be otherwise. Also, note that the ring might make the knife illegal in some states, such as, perhaps, California.
I'd prefer that the rear of the handle didn't curve downward quite so much; it looks like a pinkie crusher.
I'd prefer a full flat grind.
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I like number 1 and I really like 5160
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Ok....how about this one?
Can be used as a skull crusher, can be batoned, and still has a little counterweight value to it.
Can be used as a skull crusher, can be batoned, and still has a little counterweight value to it.
t1mpani
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Actually, partial swedges still give a noticeable aid in penetration. The "Penetrator Tips" on the Busse/Swamp Rat knives are nothing more than a mini-swedge in the last 1/2" or so of the spine, but it makes the tips noticeably more toothy. Less surface area is less surface area, so a partially swedged tip will penetrate more easily just as an edge made more acute by just five degrees will cut better.
The batoning could be affected some, but I wouldn't recommend focusing your blows on the very front, downward-sweeping section of the blade anyway whether it's swedged or not, as the force you're applying will be partially directed back instead of through the material, and your baton will want to glance off towards the point.
Okay, I'm actually going to physically remove myself from both the computer and the coffee pot, as I am way to eager a poster right now.
The batoning could be affected some, but I wouldn't recommend focusing your blows on the very front, downward-sweeping section of the blade anyway whether it's swedged or not, as the force you're applying will be partially directed back instead of through the material, and your baton will want to glance off towards the point.
Okay, I'm actually going to physically remove myself from both the computer and the coffee pot, as I am way to eager a poster right now.
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Design by committee... This is an interesting exercise to say the least. Dan, I hope you are still wallowing in the creativity of your concept. We are just here to bounce ideas off of. I like the way the pommel is developing. Like t1mpani, I'm liking a more rounded look
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IF pommel has to be changed from what it is on #1....
Then # 3 will do......:thumbup: ... Looks pretty dang good in fact ....
Addition of 3rd Corby Bolt ??? Do you see any advantage as I do ?
Go with which ever steel has the best properties for a knife of this size and intended use. IMO corrosion resistence should take a distant back seat to those.
Then # 3 will do......:thumbup:
... Looks pretty dang good in fact .... Addition of 3rd Corby Bolt ??? Do you see any advantage as I do ?
Go with which ever steel has the best properties for a knife of this size and intended use. IMO corrosion resistence should take a distant back seat to those.
Penetration isnt a concern of mine for this style of knife. I think the swedge aught to be more of an afterthought and give some leeway with balancing the knife.
I really like the balance of my ontario RAT-7, it's right in the middle of the finger guard. Normal grip gives it a slight blade heavy balance, choking up on the choil makes it slightly handle heavy.
I really like the balance of my ontario RAT-7, it's right in the middle of the finger guard. Normal grip gives it a slight blade heavy balance, choking up on the choil makes it slightly handle heavy.
pipeman157
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I like #3. Looks good to me.
din
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#3 is looking better. however, perhaps, lose the holes in the scales, just do three corby bolts, increase the size of the pommel a little bit, keeping the shape of the pommel in #3, and put the 3/8" lanyard hold there instead of in the scales. the rear bolt could be near where the large lanyard hole is in the design now, with the third midway between the others.
also, seconding what mike said about shrinking the size of the ring to ~3/4", and what was said earlier about adding a radius to the interior and exterior of the ring.
also, seconding what mike said about shrinking the size of the ring to ~3/4", and what was said earlier about adding a radius to the interior and exterior of the ring.
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Reconsidering blade style... Overall like #3 now meandering to original blade style #1 from what I'm reading.
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