"Survivor" Design thread - let's wrap this up

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Thanks for all the input so far. :thumbup:


A few comments:


I'm not crazy about 3 corby bolts. More complications during glue-up, more cost (overall) and IMHO not that much benefit. In my experience, the glue does a lot of work keeping things flat, the lanyards keep things straight and the bolts are an added protection. It's a team effort. :D


The ring diameter.

My WSK is drilled with a 7/8" diameter holesaw, which ends up being a bit oversize (around 0.900"). And I have actually had a few people say that they never used it because it was too small for their finger. Personally, for me, it fits great...with wiggle room. I tried out a 1" hole in one and it did not feel that much bigger. The problem with the 1" hole (IMHO) is when it's used for a pinky-ring - like a kerambit. And also if it is not properly place - in an ergonomic way dictated by the human hand. I've taken this all into account, guys and have made quite a few test-models. Not just shootin' from the hip. :D

I do usually chamfer the ring, and round the outside. Perhaps I missed yours, t1mpani?




Keep 'em coming, guys!


I'll do my best to keep up with y'all. :D :eek: :p
 
I'd go for the Bowie style #2 but with a rounded pomell as seen in #3.

It would also be nice if the finger hole was optional
 
OK

NO 3rd Corby, point taken & understood.... :thumbup:

KEEP the ring... however you do it is fine.... :thumbup:

Looking GOOD .....:thumbup::thumbup::D
 
Dan .. I like all those three .. anyhow if I have to choose 1 .. so my choice fall on # 2 with unsharpened clip point and a rounded pomell (i.e. as seen in #3) .. how to order it?
 
When we're done here, I'll start a pre-order thread. :thumbup:




Keep the comments coming!!
 
Design #1 and I have a weakness for A2. Modifying the butt as discussed previously is a good idea. I'm assuming there are two hollow tubes (like the bushcraft) in the handle for a lanyard?
 
Dan - I prefer the drop point style blade on design #1. I like the pommel suggested by t1mpani (post #65), but would be equally happy with the pommel on design #3. A2 for the steel and I'd gladly pay extra for a sawback if it's made available.

Thanks for asking - John
 
I think number three is the sexiest looking one. For the way I use a knife, the blade shape of #2 might be better. My vote? Ricasso back? 3.
Forward? 2. No sawback.

I would prefer a2 over 5160 but only if the increase in final cost was less than 20-30%.

(Daniel - t1mpani is scary bright. I came to realize that long ago in the Swamp forum. Scary bright and a real gentleman!)
 
Nice! Just saw design #3. :):):)

That's a winner in my book. When you hold the knife with two fingers to get additional leverage/speed for chopping the pommel won't hurt your palm.

Sign me up! :thumbup:
 
Moodino said:
9" is to short for efficient chopping sans baton. We landed on a rule of thumb. the blade length should equal the distance between the operator's elbow and the center of his open palm. Anything longer or shorter is inefficient.
Click to expand...

Can you explain this? When/where was this rule of thumb developed? some thread you can point us to? Did you mean knife length or blade length? Because blade length for me would be 14 - 15". That seems long, unless it would be for a lighter blade, such as a machete.

#3 is looking good. :thumbup:
 
Daniel Koster said:
I do usually chamfer the ring, and round the outside. Perhaps I missed yours, t1mpani?
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No worries, Dan. It came nicely chamfered on the inside of the ring, and a quick couple passes on a 220 grit belt took care of the outside. I like the ring a whole lot more than I honestly thought I would at the outset--very secure feeling, especially when it's cold and my hands aren't working too well.

Paddling_man said:
...Scary bright and a real gentleman!
Click to expand...

I say it takes one to know one, buster. ;)
 
For me:
#1 or #3
No sawback
Maybe thumbgrooves on spine?
Like an exposed pommel for breaking ice, fine crushing nuts, dried meat or fraying cordage
I bleed O1 but accept knifemakers choice of steel.
Convex edge?
Bead blasted natural canvas micarta would be nice.

I need to sell a knife to have funds ready for preorder. :)

2Door
 
#3 for me, although all 3 of them look mighty fine. Steel wise, I'm in a wet part of the world, so the more rust resistant, the better.

Chinpo
 
I would prefer #1 in A2 steel, saw back would be a nice addition but not an absolute necessity.
 
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