1095 steel and rust

I've used RIG, FP-10, 3 in 1 oil, CorrosionX, Renwax, and Eezox to keep rust away from my carbon steel blades. Not all at the same time of course. Of bigger importance than the actual product used, is the maintenance schedule itself. If you don't take pride in your tools, the tools will likely suffer. Cheap stainless knives sell in high volume because most folks are more worried about discoloration or rust than they are about edge retention and cutting/sharpening ability. Not too many years ago that wouldn't have been the case.
 
I used to live in Okla. and the humidity would soak into my leather and rust my knifes in short order. I now live in AZ. and don't think anything rusts here so I guess it depends on where you hang your hat.
 
shotgunner11 said:
Nobody ever claimed it was.



This is the RAT cutlery forum, not the Ontario forum. Were discussing rust issues, not your opinion of design flaws.



Old hickory kitchen knives, made of 1095, were considered to be some of the best for over a hundred years, only recently have stainless steels become more common in the kitchen here in the west. A majority of asian kitchen cutlery is made with carbon steels and it is still considered some of the best in the world. Many prefer carbon steels for food prep as they seem to take a keener, toothier edge.

As for a combat knife for food prep, lets ask some soliders what knife they tend to use most for their food prep....bet it's the one they have at the time.



I guess your intitled to your opinion, regardless of how wrong it is.;)
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yeah ,but has got a POINT on the handles though.

never understood why those handle slabs have to be so square.
same with the Ontario Rangers .
it just doesnt feel comfortable.

when you compare it with a ...for example, Ka-Bar handle.
what difference.

but this thread is about rust.
and I agree that it shouldnt be a major problem if you take care of the knife.

but I do understand the masses who dont want to watch their possibly rusting blade and go for a Fallkniven A-1 for example.

to each their own
 
Man, all you gotta do is take some smegma and in da' bush there won't be any shortage of that! Just kiddin'..!

Or, do what I do and bring some lipbalm, which is probably better, as it won't contaminate your food or poison you if you cut yourself.
 
I have never had any issues with rust on my Izula in the 2 months that I have had it. Basically if if you use it enough, there is no way it will rust. Though i always make it a point to clean it and leave a small amount of rem oil or coconut oil on it, which ever is handy.
 
I coat my blades with 3 in 1 oil. This keeps the rust off pretty nice. I live in Fl so its pretty humid and blades tend to rust.
 
Late to the discussion, but here's my .05 worth:
my favorite way to patina a carbon steel blade: cook slab of meat - especially a greasy one like brisket or leg of lamb - cut up meat with carbon bladed knife, eat.
blade with have a random, swirly, almost case finished look to it -- and is on the way to being rust resistant, much like the patina'd parts of my cast iron skillets.
also - +1 on the boesheild, it's great stuff. check woodworking supply stores for it if you can't find it elsewhere.
alternative to beeswax is paste wax (find it at Lowe's, Menard's, etc... in the stain & urethane section) this is great stuff for sealing metal, and doesn't leave a sticky residue like beeswax. It will, however, wear away with time, so reapply periodically. (works really good on cast tool surfaces like tablesaws, too!)

personally, I hate WD-40 for anything but a rust remover. It's corrosive, dries to a gummy finish, and actually encourages future rust/corrosion. If using it to clean a piece of metal (like bike chain) I follow it with a cleaner and then use a dry film lubricant.

Brownell's and birchwood casey's cold blues are good, as is the Birchwood Casey "plum brown" solution. clean and degrease your blade, then give a couple of coats of solution followed by rinsing in HOT water and then wiping down with a good gun oil (rem or break free, etc) to stop the reaction.
 
I live in Saskatchewan which is such a dry enviroment its shocking literally!
Static charges everywhere but this will be great for keeping my RC4 (which is in the mail)
free from rust.
 
Birchwood Casey has a gun blue touch up pen. Quite cheap too. You can use the pen to mark the edge with the gun blue and the laser etchings too. The pen is a neat way to touch up any scratches on your gun also.
 
maverick3981 said:
Birchwood Casey has a gun blue touch up pen. Quite cheap too. You can use the pen to mark the edge with the gun blue and the laser etchings too. The pen is a neat way to touch up any scratches on your gun also.
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That's a great idea. I wouldn't want to completely blue a RAT knife because I love the look of the finish, but I might have to try what you said and just do the edge and etchings.
 
Might sound weird, but ive always coated my blades in baby oil. Its cheap works great and can have a wonderful lavender scent! Never had a blade rust yet.
 
I've never had one of my knives rust but thats cause I use them often. if I put them in storage they get wiped down with some tuf-cloth...
 
I've coated my 1095 blades with mineral oil and have yet to see any rust. Humidity around here I'd say is medium on average, high in the summer. As for kitchen knives though, I try to stick to stainless or ceramic. If a high carbon kitchen knife comes my way, the first order of business would be to put a patina on that sucker.
 
I've coated my 1095 blades with mineral oil and have yet to see any rust. Humidity around here I'd say is medium on average, high in the summer. As for kitchen knives though, I try to stick to stainless or ceramic. If a high carbon kitchen knife comes my way, the first order of business would be to put a patina on that sucker
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+1 for blade care
+2 for patina
 
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