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2" x 72" Belt Grinder kit $369.99

strahd71 said:
I don't want to speak for anyone but there is no new thread yet. From my understanding that when jaime is done taking care of his personal business he will start the thread and begin to ship the kits out.

AGAIN THIS JUST MY UNDERSTANDING!!!!

Jake
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Jake, that's exactly the case.

To give a little bit of timeline, I'll be able to ship the first wave next week, and then my plan is to always have some on hand so that I can ship them at the end of any week(I can only get to the post office on Fridays and Saturdays).

Jamie
 
Wow! Great looking plans. I had a few questions I hope some of the more experienced guys can answer, or the builder/designer (that means you blindhogg and polarbearforge)

I see that the revised design has the extra slot for a tool rest attachment right? I looked at the older pics of it and that wasn't there? Or am I just seeing things.

I would be most interested in the all in one JT inspired attachment. I noticed on his newer design that he has a 2 inch and an 8 inch wheel. I also saw that using a 6 inch with this new design was mentioned. The 8" wheel from Beaumont is more that twice as expensive as the 6" wheel. $259 vs $127. Is there enough of a difference to go with the 8" over the 6"? I would imagine the platen attachment holes would also have to be in different places for the 2 different size contact wheels because of the angle of the belt heading back to the 2" contact wheel. I also can't seem to envision how the platen will be attaching to this newer design all in one. Also concerning the all in one, will it allow enough room for the "slack belt" option? especially with the smaller 6" wheel? I also remember JT saying he put the spud closed to the large wheel to eliminate how much you have to move the tooling armin and out while using the different setups. It looks like the hole on the new one is right in the middle? Would that create any issues? I would LOVE to see a picture of this attachment set up.

I currently have a brand new Dayton TEFC 1hp 115v 1725rpm motor that I want to use. I was planning on the 4 inch drive wheel. I really want to keep the cost of the build down and was hoping I could get some reassurance that this motor would work. It is a base mount not a face mount.

I am almost fully on board with only the reservation that the holes that have to be drilled and tapped will be beyond the average diy'er. I have a nice drill press but don't have a countersink bit and worry about accuracy while drilling the necessary holes. I know a directions sheet is being made up but I guess I need reassurance that I would be able to complete this without being a machinist.

I was also calculating the cost and came up with $260 for the base kit, $65 2" contact, $127 6" contact, $58 tracking/tension, $53 4" drive, which puts me at $563 and I would still need to buy nuts/bolts, spring, knobs, tooling arm to mount the all in one, metal for the platen, and some rod to attach the all in one to the tooling arm. I figure it would be around $650 total. (I really have no idea how much the knobs, or the huge hunk of square stock for the tooling arm would cost).

I look forward to seeing how this works out!
 
Wloch248 said:
Wow! Great looking plans. I had a few questions I hope some of the more experienced guys can answer, or the builder/designer (that means you blindhogg and polarbearforge)

I see that the revised design has the extra slot for a tool rest attachment right? I looked at the older pics of it and that wasn't there? Or am I just seeing things.
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How old are you looking? The initial kit in this thread is different than the current one. The first/older version of the kit I'll be selling didn't have it. It was added afterwards.

Is there enough of a difference to go with the 8" over the 6"?
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If you're hollowing grinding, get a different effect with an 8". A larger wheel also works better for larger blades. I don't hollow grind, so hopefully others will chime in on that.

I would imagine the platen attachment holes would also have to be in different places for the 2 different size contact wheels because of the angle of the belt heading back to the 2" contact wheel. I also can't seem to envision how the platen will be attaching to this newer design all in one.
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platens.jpg


Here is an image of the two platen styles.

The one on the right is the multi platen. The top most hole and the bottom most hole are for the wheels. The middle hole is the pivot hole to rotate the assemble from wheel, to platen, to wheel, to slack belt. The other two holes are for the actual platen attachment.

Also concerning the all in one, will it allow enough room for the "slack belt" option? especially with the smaller 6" wheel?
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If I remember correctly from my drawings there is. When I get home(This will be Sunday, I'm out of town) and draw it up again and let you know for sure.

I would LOVE to see a picture of this attachment set up.
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Once I'm done with family/personal matters, I'll be taking more pictures, including this setup.

It is a base mount not a face mount.
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A base mount may work, but it hasn't been tested or verified. It is designed for a 56c motor frame. You may be able to bolt it to the base, and have the shaft extend through the opening. What frame style is the motor?

I am almost fully on board with only the reservation that the holes that have to be drilled and tapped will be beyond the average diy'er. I have a nice drill press but don't have a countersink bit and worry about accuracy while drilling the necessary holes. I know a directions sheet is being made up but I guess I need reassurance that I would be able to complete this without being a machinist.
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I think it's within the realm of a hobby metalworker. I'm a machinist, and did the assembly of my first two prototypes with a drill press. Nothing special or extraordinary about the tooling. If you don't have a countersink, a drill bit will work in a pinch.

To mark the holes, I put the upright in the base, and then clamp a piece of angle iron to keep things perpendicular. I took a cordless drill with a drill bit that just fit inside the holes in the base, and put a small dimple on the edge of the upright through the holes. I took the base off and my holes were already spotted. (Don't worry, I'll be taking pictures of this)

Your cost estimate is right inline with mine. Most of the little stuff, nuts, bolts, taps, etc, I'll tally in the final writeup. I have those in the shop anyway.


Jamie
 
Jamie,

Thanks for the quick response. I am pretty sure I am just over thinking how hard the assembly will be.

The 2 holes for the platen attachment in the all in one would place the platen on the right side (from the way it is sitting in the picture) correct?

What would the setup be for the platen? just a large piece of angle iron? I think I have seen that done while researching.

I think my motor has a NEMA frame 143T it is a model 6K827L, which means it also has a 7/8 inch diameter shaft. Which leads me to my next discovery while researching tonight: Sunray wheels. Beaumont doesn't have a drive wheel for a 7/8" shaft. Sunray does. Their wheels are also a little cheaper than Beaumont. I also saw a new thread over in the shop talk forum discussing them. SO overall cost should come down about $100 and still being able to get an 8" wheel.

I think bolting it to the frame would be what I would end up doing.

By all means take care of the family stuff. It is much more important than this. Then picture away once you get it set up!
 
From my perspective, this has the potential to be a GREAT companion to those of us who already own a KMG as well as a great entry level professional quality grinder. The frame is very reasonably priced, and the amount of hardware needed to complete the chassis isn't that much. The great thing is, you can use this with your already-purchased KMG tooling arms/attachments. So you can have a platen set up on the KMG and a 10" wheel on the EERF. Or a small wheel and a Beaumont-built rotary platen. Or.....etc, etc.

For me this works out great as I already have the VFD setup needed and extra tooling arm attachments, and all I would need to purchase is a 2hp 3 phase motor which can be had reasonably. Then add a tracking wheel, a drive wheel, and a few bolts/knobs and I'm set.

Really looking forward to this.

--nathan
 
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Wloch248 said:
Jamie,

Thanks for the quick response. I am pretty sure I am just over thinking how hard the assembly will be.
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You're welcome! I was thinking about this after posting it. If one is able to make a knife, I'm confident they can assemble this grinder frame.

The 2 holes for the platen attachment in the all in one would place the platen on the right side (from the way it is sitting in the picture) correct?
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Correct.

What would the setup be for the platen? just a large piece of angle iron? I think I have seen that done while researching.
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That's one way to do it. Two pieces of angle, one top and one bottom is another. I'm sure as people start building, we'll more ways to do it, too.

I think my motor has a NEMA frame 143T it is a model 6K827L,
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I'd have to look up the specs for that one, it's not one that I'm familiar with. It might take a little creativity, but I'm sure it could be made to work.

Jamie
 
blindhogg said:
A 143T motor has the same distance from the motor foot to the spindle as a 56C motor. So should work fine.
http://www.blowerwheel.com/nema-motor-frame-chart.htm
Chris
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I looked at a similar chart and there aren't too many differences. I know my shaft is longer (heheehehehheheh) and bigger diameter (also heheheheheh) but for the most part it looks quite a bit the same. If I got a slight discount I might be willing to do a test with my motor frame to see if it would work :D
 
polarbearforge said:
From those that have it, does the map arm require a 1 1/2" square mount?

Jamie
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yes
1.5 inch square

It is a KMG receiver tube

I would just use another receiver side plate and some additional spacers to create 2 side by side receiver tubes

It's why I asked bout the spacing required between the two
(about 1 inch as Adam-Micheal mentioned)
 
I had a chance to look at the map arm, and I don't see why using a 1" bar for the workrest instead of the 1 1/2 inch wouldn't work I don't think that positioning would be an issue.

One thing that I was looking forward to, is the different designs people came up with to use in the workrest.

Jamie
 
I think you could easily get a few extr spacers, a plate, and extended bolts and make a side mounted tool receiver.
 
gordonquixote, check out http://blindhogg.com/eerfgrinder.html it's the original one. More pictures with the udpates will be later next week.

mo-jord, I sketched it out, and it doesn't give me a warm, fuzzy feeling about rigidity when they are side by side. For the workrest support, it's currently for a 1" square. I can envision expanding that to 1 1/2" in a way that is rigid. It would make the existing workrest hole bigger.

What is the general preference? A 1" workrest support or 1 1/2" support? I can make that change, but would have to make a few changes to the main upright.

I'd really like to get some kits out this next week. I think that I'll cut them as I've shown so far, and if the expansion is desired, I can make a retrofit kit. Sound like a good plan? What I'd like to do is make a standard kit instead of many slightly different styles.

Jamie
 
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