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2" x 72" Belt Grinder kit $369.99

I'd say multi is more useful as you can have a platen, 2" contact wheel, and 8" contact weel. However, it will also cost more to set up as you have to purchase the 2" and 8" wheels and platen.

The standard platen you also have to set up with 2" pulleys or contact wheels and a platen.

--nathan

--nathan
 
When will I be able to buy one of the multi platen ? I already have my wheels...

If any body needs a 8"x2" wheel I can get them for 175 shipped I think he has a couple left.
 
This sure has turned out grand!!!!
You guys have done a wonderful thing and you are going to help lots of folks get their first real belt grinder up and running!!
Hats off to all of you!!!!
I do have one question about this though.
Why is this a bolt together project instead of weld up one?
I know some folks don't have access to a welder and all but it sure looks like it would be simpler to weld the parts together.
 
It can be done either way. It's just that so many people don't have the means to weld it up, and it is very solid just with the bolt together design, especially with 1/2" plate. Weld it if you want, and bolt it together if you can't. This way everybody wins.

--nathan
 
reevestx, please send me an email at jamie at polarbearforge dot com. I'll be sending emails for platens only out tomorrow.

L6steel, I was originally working on a weld together design, but never quite got it the way I liked it. I like this design better than the one I was originally working on. There are a few parts of this that could be welded instead, but I'd recommend drill all necessary holes first(specifically the one for the idler pivot).

Jamie
 
Jamie, are you selling the platents by themselves and if so, how much would it cost for one of each style?
 
Jamie,
My 60lb packaged arrived. Thank you!! I have not opened it yet to ck the parts and am leaving for a hunting trip. I'll do that when I get back.
It is refreshing, after being burned by Wil, to deal with a man of integrity and I truely appreciated that and the efforts everyone put into this.
 
I will be selling the platens separately at $20 apiece. Shipping is still $10.20 via flat rate box.

Jamie

Outstanding!!
I would like to order one of each platen style!!
I do have a special request concerning the multi platen.
The small wheel I'll be using on mine has bearings with 3/8" bore. Would it be possible to have the hole for the small wheel drilled to this size?
Also, are the wheel mounting holes in the platen tapped or is that a task we do ourselves?
If the 3/8" hole isn't possible, I understand, I can always make another wheel and get new bearings with 1/2" bore.
I never thought to ask you this before but are you accepting payment via Paypal?
If you are, let me know my total, if there's extra for the 3/8" hole, and your Paypal nick and I'll get the payment taken care of asap.
 
porterb123, Thanks! I can't wait to see how it turns out.

L6steel, I don't accept paypal, but I use a credit card processor called Propay. I can send a secure link to enter that information when I get home tonight. If you could send me an email at home (jamie at polarbearforge dot com) I'll send the information to that email address.

The holes for the wheels are not tapped and are clearance holes. They will require a nut on the other side of the plate. I had considered leaving them to be tapped, but if they weren't tapped perpendicular to the plate, then the wheel also wouldn't be perpendicular. It seemed to be the most reliable way to avoid any problems.

Jamie
 
"I had considered leaving them to be tapped, but if they weren't tapped perpendicular to the plate, then the wheel also wouldn't be perpendicular. It seemed to be the most reliable way to avoid any problems."

Very well thought out Jamie!!!
I find it nearly impossible to get a tap to stay perpendicular to the stock, even when I use the drill press to start the threading.
 
This thread should be showcased as an example of what happens when a lot of good folk pull together to salvage what was a bad situation, all the way around. I feel honored to be among such good folk. Thank you all who stepped up to help all of us. Thanks also for BladeForums - worth its weight in gold and well worth supporting. I raise my glass and toast you all, good friendly folk.
 
...The holes for the wheels are not tapped and are clearance holes. They will require a nut on the other side of the plate....

Jamie

I'm not sure if I'm picturing it right, but if the platen sits flush against the tooling arm, through bolts might interfere with rotating the multiplaten. Sorry if I got it wrong, it just came to mind as I had to scrap a homemade platen after a good bit of time in it.

Great project and amazing to get the kit in a flat rate box, Craig
 
I'm having a hard time picturing how the multiplaten goes together as well. Hopefully it will make more sense as I assemble the kit.

keith
 
I'm not sure if I'm picturing it right, but if the platen sits flush against the tooling arm, through bolts might interfere with rotating the multiplaten. Sorry if I got it wrong, it just came to mind as I had to scrap a homemade platen after a good bit of time in it.

You're right. If it sits flush, then it would have a limit to the rotation.

I had a spacer in mind to go between the platen and the tooling arm to allow clearance for it to rotate the whole way.

Although, I suppose one could notch the tooling arm to allow it to sit flush if desired. Just thought of that one, so I have no idea how well it would work.

Jamie
 
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I’m getting all the stuff together for my EERF grinder build but I need some advice on what to use for the tooling arm the design calls for a 1½” bar should I use thick walled square tubing or find a solid piece “very heavy I think”? Any idea on the length I’m going to be using a multi platen? :jerkit:

:eek::eek:I’m very excited about the project and would like to thank all of the folks that put in all the effort for this project.

Doug White
 
I purchased 1.5 solid bar from either onlinemetals.com or speedymetals.com I forget which. But I would go with whoever is cheaper.
Solid is the way to go.
Chris
 
Thanks for the info on the tooling arm what length would you suggest and do you think solid for the work rest also?
 
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