• The rules for The Exchange can be found here. Please read and follow them. Stop using Paypal Friends & Family and follow our best practices to prevent getting ripped off or having a bad deal.

2" x 72" Belt Grinder kit $369.99

OK, so the two .5" holes on the outer ends are for, say, a larger and smaller contact wheel, and the center .5" hole is to mount the assembly to the tooling arm. The two smaller holes are to mount the actual platen?

Is this Multi-Platen meant to rotate so that you can use either contact wheel or either side, platen/no platen?

Thanks.
 
Greetings

I am getting ready to gather parts for the grinder build. From what I culled throughout the thread, the grinder is set up for a 56c face and/or base mount. Is it also set for a 143 or 145 face and/or base mount?

Lastly, what is the recommended motor RPM, 1800 or 3600 (nominal)? I plan to use a VFD with a 3 phase motor. I know I can run a 3600 at 1800, but is 3600 rpm necessary and would I lose some torque running it slower?

Thanking all in advance,

Eric
 
I'd say that with the direct drive, 1800 is going to be more useful with a 4" belt drive wheel. I have a 3600 rpm on my KMG, but it's a belt driven setup so I have "geared it down" with the sheaves.

For this grinder, I'm going for a ~1800 rpm motor. Check ebay out. There are some new $199 1800 rpm 2hp three phase motors.

--nathan
 
I am going to set mine up with a 3600rpm motor. My Bader B3 uses a 3600rpm motor and it is a direct drive.
Chris
 
My bader uses a 6 inch drive wheel, but I plan to use a 4 inch wheel on my build.
Beaumont metal works sells both sizes.
Chris
 
I plan on ordering this grinder soon. Could someone recommend a motor? Thanks in advance for the advice.

Keith
 
Keith, it really depends on how much you plan on spending. If you just have 110V in the shop, you'll likely max out at 1 to 1.5 hp single phase 56C frame TEFC motor. If you have 220V, you can go larger. If you want variable speed for this grinder, you'll have to run a three phase motor with a VFD which will add a good bit to your expense.

I'd say for bare bones if you have 220V, I'd go with a 2 hp single phase ~1800 rpm TEFC motor with a 56C frame. If you want it to be faster, you can go with a 3600 rpm motor of the same ilk.

You can find motors on ebay (new and used), places like Grizzly, or electronic surplus stores. If you need more information, just ask.

--nathan
 
BTW, I put together my kit last night. No problems other than a hole that was a little off-shape. I just chased it with a drill bit first before tapping it.

I ended up assembling it with the motor on the right side, and I had no trouble. I used thirteen 1/4" by 4" bolts/nuts, three 3/8" by 2" bolts/nuts, and one 1/2" by 2" bolt/nut so far. For the holes I tapped, I used tapered head 1/4N20 machine screws. Aside from a broken tap :(, I had no troubles.

Once I get the extra hardware to complete it, I'll post pics. It will be after the first of next month before I can order everything I need to get it running.

Thanks for a great kit, guys!

--nathan
 
Last edited:
Glad to hear you got it built Nathan! I've been busy today working on an information page for this grinder. Which hole was a bit off? I thought I'd caught any anomolies. Here's what I have so far, http://www.polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html

Broken taps can be miserable. Where did you break it? I can't tell you how many taps I burned out when I ran sinker edm. I had to fix a lot of threads after the parts were heat treated, too.

With the exception of one person, anybody who had paid by Thursday has a relatively heavy box on the way.

Jamie

I'll also be contacting those who emailed me about getting a platen only with the next few days.
 
Thanks for the info. My shop is in our basement. I am having a bandsaw delivered next week. It takes 220. An electrician friend is doing the wiring for me. I'll have him go ahead and run another for the motor. I plan on getting with Jamie next week to place my order. I have been getting by with precut blanks and a 4x36 grinder that eats through belts and takes too long. I can't wait to get something with some power. I think I may feel like Tim The Tool Man Taylor.

Keith
 
Jamie, I think that all looks great.

One thing, it will probably save you a lot of hassle from people if you fix this line (it's right under the pic of the grinder put together):

"The motor and bolts are included in the this kit, but are show for demonstration purposes."

I know what you mean and I'm sure most folks here do, but a capital "NOT" would be a good idea in there, IMHO :)
 
Jamie, it was one of the holes in the base that mounts the upright, and there was one other somewhere else. It wasn't a problem with the design, but for some reason, the hole was marred. Almost looks like it got heated and smashed in at the edge. No big deal; I just cleaned 'em up with a drill. That also happens to be the same area where I broke my tap :angry:, though it was in the upright. I couldn't get it out, so right now I have three bolts holding the base to the upright. I'm either going to drill/tap another hole or just run a weld down either side of the upright.

I actually broke two taps. Both were 1/4N20, and I was able to get one out. It was mostly just my technique and impatience. The third (and last...also my oldest of a different brand...hmmm....) 1/4N20 tap lasted just fine.

I haven't tapped the holes in the base for the motor just yet, nor the tracking wheel mount.

It looks really good all together. I found some knobs for the arms and tracking today as well as some heavy duty springs for the tension. We'll see it's too much.

Thanks again. I'm counting my penny's to see when I can order the motor and drive wheel/tracking wheel.

--nathan
 
I bet that was when my cart crumpled. I had some parts on a cart in the show, and when I went to move it, the thing crumpled and dumped parts all over the floor. I had bought the cart because I thought I'd save myself some time over building one. I should have known better.

On my grinders, I'll be welding the main upright to the base. I like overkill. :D

Jamie
 
If you just weld the upright to the base how many holes does that leave to be taped?

Thanks

Jake
 
On your web page at the bottom with the price estimates the text for the wheel links is not visible.
 
Back
Top