• The rules for The Exchange can be found here. Please read and follow them. Stop using Paypal Friends & Family and follow our best practices to prevent getting ripped off or having a bad deal.

2" x 72" Belt Grinder kit $369.99

I only have the chasis completed and no stand, motor, or wheels, but I'll post some pics when I can.

--nathan
 
Spent the weekend putting the grinder together. I don't have all the parts for the wiring yet, but the frame is put together.

Couple of comments:

1) Don't have someone at the construction site weld. Close enough is not quite close enough.

2) The bottom plate for the motor mount holes has a front and back. Don't ask me how I know.

3) I used nuts with plastic locking inserts since some of the bolts aren't tightened down all the way. Not sure if vibration is a factor, but better to be safe than sorry.

4) The tooling bar and future table support is 1 1/2 square tubing x 18" long. I probably should have cut the table support to 20". I bought the tubing from Metal online, I think.

5) I'll probably build the smiley face platten and leave 8" wheel on its own.

A couple more evenings and this baby should be up and running. All in all a project anyone can do. My main hobby is woodworking, so a few of my bad habits can make things really bad working with metal.

Here are a couple pictures for your viewing pleasure.

Thanks to Jamie and Chris for pulling this together.

Eric
 

Attachments

  • grinder2sml.jpg
    grinder2sml.jpg
    82.4 KB · Views: 249
  • grinder1sml.JPG
    grinder1sml.JPG
    87.7 KB · Views: 250
Last edited:
Looks good! I really like the snazzy motor.

I've had other feedback as well about the top and bottom of the baseplate. I'll probably be etching "Top" on them in the future.

I used a nylon locking nut on the 1/2 pivot, and loctite on everything else. I don't want to find out about vibration the hard way either.

For mine, I'm going to build pedestals (and replace my current grinding bench), are you going to mount it to a work table?

brianml, if somebody doesn't beat me to it first, I'll post pictures once I get the wheels and assemble it for use. The wheels I used originally were for setup and design purposes.



Jamie
 
I received my 65lb box of steel from Jamie this morning. My wheels from Tracy at www.usaknifemaker.com are ordered and my motor is waiting at the house. I am going to have a friend of mine powder coat the grinder for added protection. I'll post pics as I move forward with assembly. Thanks to everyone involved in this project.

Keith
 
My box arrived today.........Has anyone compared prices on the remaining parts to finish?

Carto
 
Carto,
I ordered a 2 inch contact wheel ($46), 8 inch contact wheel ($98.44), a 4 inch drive wheel ($53) and a tracking wheel ($58) from Tracy at www.USAKnifemaker.com. I bought a new 2hp Baldor motor locally for $284. The bolts and such should be $25 or so.

keith
 
jonnymac, the original poster is long defunct and has proved to be a complete ripoff, taking several BF members for their money.

The guy to contact is Jamie at Polarbearforge, see post #523 above

Leadfoot
 
Doug, it's all about the orientation of the plate and the holes in it. Look at the motor mounting holes drilled in the plate. Place the upright in the notch, and then make sure those motor base mounting holes are in line with the hole in the upright for the motor.

I made mine with the grinder to the right and the drive wheel to the left. I did this for no other reason than when I mocked it up, I had everything just right for a right handed motor mount. Then when I tapped and countersunk the holes, I somehow screwed up the orientation, and I wan't about to do it all again :D.

--nathan
 
I would like to suggest a new posting for this as my searching thru the 27 pages (many, not all pages) has left me uncertain as to what is included, what you need to do, where to go to get it etc etc. I know its all in there, but I cant find it.

I guess I just need things simple... what, how much and how to. Maybe another post or link for summary how to tips would be nice. Thanks.
 
A lot of people might even think this is now 18 pages of ranting about being taken and losing their money rather than knowing that something productive and usefull has been born from the ashes. =)
 
All I know is that it pays to read through stuff :D. Although with my settings, it's only 14 very LONG pages ;)

I can see this becoming a new page once Jamie is ready for the possible new demand that it could entail. I'm guessing he's got his plate full right now with the interest just from this deep thread.

--nathan
 
The platen i got is the top one, is that the multi one?


polarbearforge said:
How old are you looking? The initial kit in this thread is different than the current one. The first/older version of the kit I'll be selling didn't have it. It was added afterwards.



If you're hollowing grinding, get a different effect with an 8". A larger wheel also works better for larger blades. I don't hollow grind, so hopefully others will chime in on that.



platens.jpg


Here is an image of the two platen styles.

The one on the right is the multi platen. The top most hole and the bottom most hole are for the wheels. The middle hole is the pivot hole to rotate the assemble from wheel, to platen, to wheel, to slack belt. The other two holes are for the actual platen attachment.



If I remember correctly from my drawings there is. When I get home(This will be Sunday, I'm out of town) and draw it up again and let you know for sure.



Once I'm done with family/personal matters, I'll be taking more pictures, including this setup.



A base mount may work, but it hasn't been tested or verified. It is designed for a 56c motor frame. You may be able to bolt it to the base, and have the shaft extend through the opening. What frame style is the motor?



I think it's within the realm of a hobby metalworker. I'm a machinist, and did the assembly of my first two prototypes with a drill press. Nothing special or extraordinary about the tooling. If you don't have a countersink, a drill bit will work in a pinch.

To mark the holes, I put the upright in the base, and then clamp a piece of angle iron to keep things perpendicular. I took a cordless drill with a drill bit that just fit inside the holes in the base, and put a small dimple on the edge of the upright through the holes. I took the base off and my holes were already spotted. (Don't worry, I'll be taking pictures of this)

Your cost estimate is right inline with mine. Most of the little stuff, nuts, bolts, taps, etc, I'll tally in the final writeup. I have those in the shop anyway.


Jamie
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top