Best sword for zombie Apocalypse?

Full plate armor and +5 dancing vorpal blade
alice.jpg

[video=youtube;kw4Ji4JKZ7Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kw4Ji4JKZ7Q[/video]

5160 swords for my local bladesmith. Apparently a good all-rounder; holds edge & shape despite a battering. But I don't have a spare $5000 for a 34" straight blade, protruding quillions, a roomier sabre handle, hilt covered with pyramid studs, & an acorn pommel
http://www.hoihoknives.com/

Angus Trim
I've found 5160 to be very friendly for what I like to do with a blade. For sheer performance, I think of it as one of the two or three best sword blade materials.

The strength, flexibility, and toughness combine to make it possible for me to go with a real thin crossection at the cutting end of the blade a lot of time. It also gives an edge holding capacity, that allows me to get the edge as thin and tight as possible, historically accurate for the best cutting swords.

And its a pretty good steel for working.http://www.swordforum.com/forums/showthread.php?46674-How-good-is-5160-Steel-Swords
 
Last edited:
What would be the best sword steel for a zombie apocalypse? 1060, 5160, 9260, T10, L6, S7? You would want something unbreakable so would that be 9260 since it can bend to 90 degrees? What kind of sword would you get? Ive been looking at a few...

T10 Great Wave by Hanwei $634 retail $960
http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=PC5004
Its a beautiful T10 and decided on getting it a few years ago but wondered if a cheaper 9260 would be better. Came across custom T10 for $230 so maybe get those; is this sword over priced?

9260 Tenchi by Cheness $280 retail $500
http://www.chenessinc.com/tenchi.htm
I like the bohi and seems like a beast. Dont want to buy the $300 sword, not be satisfied and by the $600 too.

1055 Warrior Katana by Cold Steel $292 retail $580
http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Katana-Handle-Scabbard/dp/B000Q9GCTI
Seems indestructible, on vid saw a guy using it to do pull-ups.

Would like to see what sword you think would be better than these. Could a European sword be better since thicker and maybe wouldn't break?

1911 .45 ACP Pistol with 230gn RN standard loading, will take care of fast or slow anything on two legs!:p
 
Just for fun. This will probably surprise you... From Mythbusters:
[video=youtube;_IlL0ZH1q8I]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IlL0ZH1q8I&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

So, I'd go with the 1911, the Swamprat RattleHawk, and avoid getting surrounded! :thumbup:

Or get your chainsaw on: :eek:
[video=youtube;NbRlFNxOQt8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbRlFNxOQt8&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

Watch those corners! :D
 
Just for fun. This will probably surprise you... From Mythbusters:
[video=youtube;_IlL0ZH1q8I]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IlL0ZH1q8I&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

So, I'd go with the 1911, the Swamprat RattleHawk, and avoid getting surrounded![emoji106]
Or get your chainsaw on: :eek:
[video=youtube;NbRlFNxOQt8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbRlFNxOQt8&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

Watch those corners! :D
FTW.

Forgot about that episode.
 
The likeliness of a sword to break depends on how hard the user is trying, lol.
S7 is a shock/impact resistant steel...but I don't know how well it stands up to lateral stresses. I don't think it holds an edge particularly well.

Well heat treated S7 will hold an edge better than any historical sword, I would wager.

It is super tough from both a shock and lateral stress standpoint.

Traditional laminated, differentialy heat treated katana are lovely. Deadly. Fast. But they are not indestructible. They get edge retention from high hardness at the edge.

I recently read a study testing the hardness, across sections of the blade for its entire length, on historical swords, some from famous collections. (Wallace collection was one).

The hardness numbers were shockingly low. Like mid 20 as the average.

S7, or 5610, or 1055, or just about any modern steel with a quality heat treat would be light years ahead in edge retention.

I'm too lazy to find the article.

From a durability standpoint Busse/swamprat/scrapyard have all made swords, and they are pretty indestructible. They are not fencing swords. But for lopping heads and trees, and doors, and cars, they would be just fine.


A proper aword, with distal taper, and weight and balance sorted out for actual fighting won't be indestructible.

You could ruin any proper sword with a bad cut on a target.

I'd honestly take something like a shortened Halberd for the zombie apocalypse. There was a custom sold on we a while ago that was wicked. Long top spike, back hook, long enough edge to lopp off heads, arms and legs. Short enough to swing one handed.

It was a copy of a surviving example in a collection.

A pole axe with hammer, spike and axe edge would be on my short list too.

I have battle axes, a heavy bester bastard sword ( really, to heavy for single handed swinging), pole axe, spike axe, hawks, all steel war hawk from Swamprat, 12 inch khukri from Busse, and a few machettes. I don't need any more to tackle zombies, bur I sure want more.

I want all of the sharps.... and guns....

If I had the funds, I think a Dan Keffler Super Assassin sword would be in my go to zombie tool kit.

Look up YouTube cutting videos of it. Fast, strong. Cuts like a steel light saber. 6 inch trees in two strokes. 2x4's in a single stroke.

Just amazing cutting geometry. If you tried that type of cutting with historical swords I don't think they would last long.

Modern steels in traditional geometries are pretty impressive.

Not to take anything away from a lovely traditional sword, made with traditional methods.


Some one recommended the Busse hog nose. You described it as a Machete. It is certainly not that.
.25 thick. At 16 inches in the blade, full tang, sr101 steel (which is their version of 52100 a high speed ball bering steel), it will be an arm/leg/head/door/tree wrecker.

They have amazingmy high tech heat treat protocol. They get amazing performance from the steels they use.

They have a ton of fun designs! Pricy, but worth it. Great resale value too.

There is no "best" though. Tons of great makers and designs out there. Way more garbage too!
 
I would probably choose a Swamp Rat Rucki, Swamp Rat Waki, Busse INFI AK-47 or the SYKCO 1311. Pretty tough to break those guys.
 
A monk spade, made of real steel and sharpened, would be the way to go. Cutting swords require getting way too close, and I would like to remain un-gnawed for as long as possible. Or I would go to the hardware store, buy a Mutt, and grind on a good edge. One good thrust to pop the spine per zombie. Barring that, the 1911 and BK 9 are gonna be with me. Unless the wife gets me the BK 21 for our anniversary, it's a long shot but I have been hinting.
 
Yeah the Busse Hognose War Sword trips my SLO trigger too, but this thread is useless without a pic:
Hognose_War_Sword__59673.1458769410.1280.1280.jpg


I had to order one... I'm weak. :grumpy:

Is that the first step in recovery?!? ;)
 
That Machete Katana is pricey!

Machete... you keep on using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means.....


??? Which Machete? Are you talking about a specific product? From a specific company?

Did some one recommend a Katana machete?

A machete is a thin, flexible, long bladed blade. Typically under 3mm in thickness.

They are usually less effective at thrusting, due to their flexibility. Also, if lodged in a target, they can be too flexible to use as a fulcrum to control the target.


You also seem to think that $400 is too expensive for an American made product with impeccable heat treat and warranty, but list a $950+ Chinese made replica of a Japanese sword as on your list of possible choices.

"Best" especially when listing those specific steels, and cheap ar not likely to walk hand in hand into the apocalyptic sunset togethef......zombies or no.....
 
Personally, this would be my choice, or at least something like it. Short enough to be easy to carry and to use easier in confined spaces. I've done some training in Japanese and Korean sword arts, and still prefer a European double edged blade.

xiphos-photo.png
 
Well heat treated S7 will hold an edge better than any historical sword, I would wager.
No doubt. I didn't realize that we were talking about anything other than modern production.

General comment:
In all honesty, it is very difficult to actually take these discussions seriously, when the focus of zombies is repeatedly thrown into the mix. The bottom line is that there is no perfect bladed weapon...there is always a situation in which it will be too long, too short, too heavy, too light (or whatever).
As long as it's picture time....blades range from 14-18.5


Probably should have thrown the 1311 and Bravo3 in there, too
 
Hey!
If you haven't, check out Zombietools as suggested by HHmoore.
They use Americans who use American materials, to assemble Zombie fighting tools in America!
Small shop in Montana, full of some good ol boys, with skill & a sense of humour!!
I bought a Vakra, it's SOLID, comes with a nice sheath, and is only one of MANY Zacoplypse tools they make!
Hey, I just made up a new word!! *** ZACOPLYPSE ***
They also have some cool Merch, so in the upcoming melee you will stand out as a Human soldier, instead of a poorly dressed undead minion.
I think you'll like them...
AND, you will save enough to buy a 1911, and AR-15, ammo & one of those blue straws so you don't get sick drinking water that zombies peed in...
Ok my US brothers & sisters in arms... Drive them Zombyterroradicals North... We got your 6, err 12? You know what I mean...;)
 
Could a European sword be better since thicker and maybe wouldn't break?

Thicker? Some will be thinner all the way - thinner at the base, thinner mid-blade, and thinner near the tip (e.g., Roman gladius, Viking sword, many knightly/arming swords, many bastard swords, some rapiers, most falchions and messers), some will be thicker at the base, similar or thinner mid-blade, and thinner at the tip (many longswords, some falchions/messers, some rapiers, most 19th century cavalry sabres), and some will be thicker all the way (but beyond some estocs, I can't think of any examples at the moment).
 
Back
Top