CPKhuk

Well, we're two weeks away from everywhere, ain't we?

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Richard338 said:
I believe one of the test versions was 5/16" thick. Is the final value settled?
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I'm actually on the fence on this. I'm currently waffling between .275 and .300.

I want to make an authentic Kukri geometry that works like the real thing, not just a kukri shaped object, and the "real thing" is pretty thick. But part of the reason it's so thick is because the materials used and the application dictate it. Our material does not have many of those constraints. Delta 3V is not going to break, our hands are untied and we can achieve geometries that the traditional makers wouldn't dare.

A key design element, that is not intuitively obvious, is the primary grind angle. The OG "original real deal" is quite obtuse and needed to be because of the poor quality historical materials. However, we know from our knife racing, the optimal geometry for chopping wood is in a particular range (that we can reach) and the kukri are typically well over that range. We do not have the design constraints of the original materials and I would not be doing my job if I didn't tweak the angles where Delta 3V really shines in this application. These narrower angles lead to taller grinds which begin to conflict with the geometry, and therefore weight distributions, of the original kukri. My challenge is to tweak the geometries on this historical design a little bit and bring some of the performance characteristics that we have attained to this piece. I think we are looking at a double twisted grind to do this which is going to mean a different kind of manufacturing process than we usually use.

Long story short, I don't know exactly what the final stock thickness will be yet, I'm still working on it...
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I'm actually on the fence on this. I'm currently waffling between .275 and .300.

I want to make an authentic Kukri geometry that works like the real thing, not just a kukri shaped object, and the "real thing" is pretty thick. But part of the reason it's so thick is because the materials used and the application dictate it. Our material does not have many of those constraints. Delta 3V is not going to break, our hands are untied and we can achieve geometries that the traditional makers wouldn't dare.

A key design element, that is not intuitively obvious, is the primary grind angle. The OG "original real deal" is quite obtuse and needed to be because of the poor quality historical materials. However, we know from our knife racing, the optimal geometry for chopping wood is in a particular range (that we can reach) and the kukri are typically well over that range. We do not have the design constraints of the original materials and I would not be doing my job if I didn't tweak the angles where Delta 3V really shines in this application. These narrower angles lead to taller grinds which begin to conflict with the geometry, and therefore weight distributions, of the original kukri. My challenge is to tweak the geometries on this historical design a little bit and bring some of the performance characteristics that we have attained to this piece. I think we are looking at a double twisted grind to do this which is going to mean a different kind of manufacturing process than we usually use.

Long story short, I don't know exactly what the final stock thickness will be yet, I'm still working on it...
Click to expand...
Casinostocks Casinostocks wants to know how many “blood grooves” you plan on incorporating and he also wants to know if he can get ECAM scales, a “stabby” double edged dagger grind and a hand rubbed satin finish?
Ooo, he also want matte Ti fasteners if it isn’t too much trouble.
 
Standard78 said:
Casinostocks Casinostocks wants to know how many “blood grooves” you plan on incorporating and he also wants to know if he can get ECAM scales, a “stabby” double edged dagger grind and a hand rubbed satin finish?
Ooo, he also want matte Ti fasteners if it isn’t too much trouble.
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You forgot to add acid wash! (not satin finish). Must be acid washed because I can't have any accidental reflection and possibility of detection. Where I use these tools, the deal is that I must be totally be in stealth mode but the rest of your requests on my behalf is very precise. It must be able to severe major arteries and the jugular with one slight flick of the wrist.
 
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Nathan the Machinist said:
. These narrower angles lead to taller grinds which begin to conflict with the geometry, and therefore weight distributions, of the original kukri. My challenge is to tweak the geometries on this historical design a little bit and bring some of the performance characteristics that we have attained to this piece. I think we are looking at a double twisted grind to do this which is going to mean a different kind of manufacturing process than we usually use.

Long story short, I don't know exactly what the final stock thickness will be yet, I'm still working on it...
Click to expand...
Thats pretty cool! Can’t wait to see what you come up with. I think The dedication and ingenuity in getting the geometry right is the most exciting part about CPKs!
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Ah. Yeah. You're really looking for a K18 then.
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I think that I have one of those somewhere in the house but it skeers da shyte outta me!

Funny story regarding Kukri looking objects: before I even knew that a BF.com existed, researching a 7" LionSteel blade (M7?) brought me to this corner of the Interwebs and that is how I found out about the other company which shall remain nameless because they had a sub with a bunch of very helpful forumites who are now (some no more) familiar OG faces around here. Anyway around that time, I was also eyeing up a Kukri made by another Italian knifemaker (Fox?) which I never went for either of them. Knowing of your love and affection for every Italian made knives, I had to reminisce about them in here 🤣
 
TRfromMT said:
You asking for a friend, or are you "asking for a friend"?
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Well the blood grooves question was kinda my idea.
I vote for 5 chirra!
Casinostocks said:
You forgot to add acid wash! (not satin finish). Must be acid washed because I can't have any accidental reflection and possibility of detection. Where I use these tools, the deal is that I must be totally be in stealth mode but the rest of your requests on my behalf is very precise. It must be able to severe major arteries and the jugular with one slight flick of the wrist.
Click to expand...
Damnit, I knew I forgot something! 😂
 
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