Thanks Dan: I will try to explain some more variables.
Hardening a blade with a torch is like developing a painting I have the freedom to chose exactly where the temps will be. The torch is my brush and I paint the color exactly where I want it. How well I have done is clearly displayed in the finished etched blade. If I failed it is obvious and easy to read. Etching all blades has been one of my most significant learning opportunities as the feedback is within days of the hardening process. Like any art or skill, practice is the way to improvement, and I through the etched blade I have a viable index of my performance available. Once I decided to etch all my blades my abilities to harden a blade with a torch improved as a result of this relatively immediate feedback.
Torch in one hand, blade in the other, magnet suspended on a flexible copper wire within inches of the quench tank. By reading the etch and comparison testing of each blade you will soon learn the differences in the steel you are using when you harden at the low end of critical, in the middle, just above critical and with a little soak above critical.
An easy example: if I quench the blade just as it starts to lose magnetism all three times, the blade with the same tempering temperature as blades forged above critical will not chip at -30 f. and is tougher than blades hardened above critical at low temp. Blades for warmer environments can be harder and. Cutting performance of the lower quenched blade at -30 will be about equal to a harder blade at 70 f.
Grain growth is not a constant, but a variable. The finer the grain, the lower the temperature at which it can grow. Rex tells me 1,725 f. is temperature where grain starts to grow, growth is also a function of time. I chose to use 1,625 f. as the maximum temperature for my forging temperature. You can predict 1,625 fairly accurately by the size of the slag particles that come off of the blade when you start to work it after leaving the forge. If the slag is very fine, like fine snow flakes I feel I am working at the right temperature. I forge until the steel quits moving, a little below critical, then immediately back into the forge. I smile when I have my forge adjusted to a temperature that time out working is about the same as time in the forge heating.
The more thermal cycles from start using virgin stock the greater the opportunity we have to develop the grain and structures we hope to achieve. At the lower temperature forging we do not experience measurable carbon loss. When hardening our blades the hardened portion comes out of the oil quench with very little scale on the sides. A blade forged at high temp. or stock removal blade usually has much more carbon on the sides. This is one of the first indicators that all has gone well to this point.
I address forging 52100 in the next issue of Blade. If you let it soak at forging temperature (for me 1,625) for a few minutes it will forge as easily as any other steel.
As usual I am directing my comments and have experience only with 52100 and 5160.
These thoughts may or may not apply to other steels.
Another variable seems to be the volume of the steel in the blade above the quench line. We have just started working with it. Maybe in a year or so we will have more information to share.
The first description I found in US literature was an experiment in the 30's about multiple quench in 5160 - it resulted in a simple footnote "this is the finest grain we have ever seen in 5160." I believe the German steel industry was working with it much earlier as were the folks forging "Wootz".
It is up to each smith to make up his mind what he want to make, we simply share our experience.
I sincerely hope I have answered your questions, the were good ones and thanks for asking.