FK2

Nathan the Machinist said:
Small variations in things like the temperature of the spindle when the cutter was touched off, the temperature of the machine when it was run, the wear on the cutter, the exact thickness of that work piece, how that workpiece was put in the fixture, these can all add a few .0001th variation from one piece to the next that can stack up and accumulate to +- .001th or more on some outliers. Nominal engraving depth is only .003 so it doesn't take much variation to make a visible difference. We control it as best we can but there is some unavoidable minute variation in that (and any) process.
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I'd say you do a pretty damn good job of that IMHO.
 
I learned about the tight tolerances of CPK's when it took me a half hour just to pull the standoffs out of my OFK when swapping out scales for the first time after heating the fasteners. Nathans an absolute genius and if his iconic signature is misaligned a hair or a little less bold due to extraneous factors such as heat or a dang booger stuck on a fixture I am good with it because at the end of the day its still a bad ass knife!
 
To be clear here, I was not concerned about the engraving in any way. I simply noticed the difference, as it's much more noticeable than I'd seen before. I'm cool with it, makes the #badidea easy for me to identify at a glance. The knife WILL get used, I'm hoping to dismantle an animal or three with it this year! :cool:

TRfromMT said:
Nathan answered the question in ANAQ, but I was going to guess about the depth of the milling that the tip of the endmill is the same height above the deck of the milling machine, but the stock is thinner.

I'm not short, the ground is lower.
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First thing I checked. Stock thickness of all 3 knives measured 0.1875" at the ricasso.

Nathan the Machinist said:
Small variations in things like the temperature of the spindle when the cutter was touched off, the temperature of the machine when it was run, the wear on the cutter, the exact thickness of that work piece, how that workpiece was put in the fixture, these can all add a few .0001th variation from one piece to the next that can stack up and accumulate to +- .001th or more on some outliers. Nominal engraving depth is only .003 so it doesn't take much variation to make a visible difference. We control it as best we can but there is some unavoidable minute variation in that (and any) process.
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I figured that could be the case. As I work in aerospace, I totally get that. Thank you good sir! :thumbsup:
 
what a freakin great knife. I never thought I'd like any blade as much as my HDFK, but every day I use this FK2 it gains on it....damn your eyes young Carothers!...all the other makers paltry efforts I own are going up for sale.....can't stand to look at them any longer.
 
mb> said:
Nice trio. :thumbsup: I’d like to see a top down spine shot of your 2 swedged side by side if you get a moment. Curious how the std compares to the thin.
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Thank you! I won't be able to do that photo for you until next weekend unfortunately. However, fwiw, the blade stock on the #badidea harder/thinner option is exactly the same as the regular FK2's at 0.1875" thick. Therefore, the swedge looks exactly the same between the two models as well.

The thinner part of the #badidea is in the primary grind only. It goes slightly deeper/higher, which makes it thinner behind the edge and in the primary grind.
 
SpyderPhreak said:
Thank you! I won't be able to do that photo for you until next weekend unfortunately. However, fwiw, the blade stock on the #badidea harder/thinner option is exactly the same as the regular FK2's at 0.1875" thick. Therefore, the swedge looks exactly the same between the two models as well.

The thinner part of the #badidea is in the primary grind only. It goes slightly deeper/higher, which makes it thinner behind the edge and in the primary grind.
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Ah, thanks man. I lost track of the details. Don’t worry about a photo then. Enjoy the mean slicer!
 
gunslinger387 said:
Lorien, I didn’t want to hijack the DEK1 thread. Do you see any problem with batoning wood (splitting it) with the FK2 or HDFK? Appropriate sized wood of course.
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none at all. Both have handles designed with a secure rearward grip, which you need for splitting with a baton. You don't want to hit your hand with a baton and holding the handle at its end keeps everything out of the way.

As for things like edge geometry and edge stability characteristics and whatnot, I've split wood with them and a baton and no damage. The s grind is amazing, I think it has enough flexibility to wiggle around a bit along the grain, but supports the edge enough to keep it from rippling. That's my theory, no real science or evidence.

Nate said it and it always pays to listen to Nate. It's all in the handle.
 
gunslinger387 said:
Lorien, I didn’t want to hijack the DEK1 thread. Do you see any problem with batoning wood (splitting it) with the FK2 or HDFK? Appropriate sized wood of course.
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I’ve smashed both through nasty knotty silver maple and cedar, hit them both like I was trying to break them many, many times. Neither show any marks or issues, in fact, they’re both still very sharp even after all of the thumping.
I didn’t design or build them but I’d say whoop them with impunity and have no worries.
 
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