Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

I would go with fixed handles and brass pins for durability, no coating on the blade to interfere with cutting efficiency except maybe on the exposed tang to limit corrosion there, and the option of either green or natural canvas micarta handle scales. Everything else such as wood scales, mosaic pins or blade coatings could be an extra option.

Oh yeah, #9 in 3V would be sweeeet!! Did I mention that before?:D:thumbup::thumbup:
 
I would go with fixed handles and brass pins for durability, no coating on the blade to interfere with cutting efficiency except maybe on the exposed tang to limit corrosion there, and the option of either green or natural canvas micarta handle scales. Everything else such as wood scales, mosaic pins or blade coatings could be an extra option.

I will second that motion! :thumbup::D

This is going to be sweeeeet!!!
 
Doesn't brass tarnish?

Never had much of a problem with handle pins, but I'm sure it could. Either brass or stainless, basically I just meant something permanent. It's just that some of my blades with removable handle pins have come loose under harder use. Brass would look better though.:D
 
If I make it removable....I'll use galvanized screws, not brass.

If not removable, I'll use non-brass corby bolts (stainless or aluminum).
 
Aluminum reacts with Carbon steel causing corrosion, why not just use plain steel counter-sunk type the same as used by TOPS etc ?
 
Yes - #9 is my preference.


I don't like the straight line on the top of #11. To me, makes it harder to work with the knife. I would probably redesign #11 to have a gentle arc...
 
Yes - #9 is my preference.


I don't like the straight line on the top of #11. To me, makes it harder to work with the knife. I would probably redesign #11 to have a gentle arc...

I agree, I am also leaning towards 9 now that you mention those lines.
 
Dan,

Could we see your redesign on #11?

Natural micarta.

scandi.

no coating, quenched surface is cool.

The way the handles are attached should be what ever is easiest for you
(Dan). So it helps you keep the cost down.
 
I'm still thinking one of your famous Convex edges would be the way to go Dan that way nobody can accuse you of jumping on the Bandwagon copying the Skookum Bush Tool etc !!!
 
Wow, this thread has taken off!

I think I finally finished going back through all the pages and there are lots of good ideas. But when I think of a bushcraft knife I want something sturdy, safe, and big enough to use without being so big it's more bother than it's worth.

If the knife isn't to have a guard I like the handle to blade profile of #1. Something deep that doesn't have me worrying about if my friends will start calling my 9 fingers after a camping trip!

4 looked ok to me but I'd want more of a natural guard. Same with 6 and 7.

I like the flat top of #11. But I also lean towards the convex grind. I like to have belly in my blades. If we keep the pommel I vote for the profile from #1 but dehorn the corners.

Also, I have large hands (I prefer 5" of handle, and closer to a 5" blade now that I think of it) so removable grips would be great. That way if the grip was too narrow you could add spacers or get a thicker scale to put on the knife.
 
I would say offer one style for scales. Maybe black G10 or something. Anybody who wants to change it could, but this would help keep costs down like you previously mentioned. I am leaning towards #9 as well.
 
Removable scales. :thumbdn:
Blade coatings. :thumbdn:

Natural micarta. :thumbup:

I still prefer wood handles. Micarta and G10 lacks any sort of warmth or character IMHO.
 
As a lone voice in the wilderness - I like #9 but my favourite is still #2 without the holes :)
 
I like #9 or #11.

As far as steel - I do not care for steels like D2 or S30V as I find them to be a pain in the rear to sharpen in the woods. O1, 1095, 52100, 13C27 would all be just fine with me.

Give it a handle that works well in all grips and a sheath that rides low and retains well and you will have a winner.
 
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