Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

S30V seems to be the top for cutting and rust resistance

who is gonna chop with there scandi?? :)

I know what ya sayin bro but you may have to batton through some real hard wood with knots in etc and in that case I'd rather have 3V than S30V !



I'm still thinkin a 4" blade would be best for this type of knife !

Cody Lundin also thinks about a 4" blade is right and I'm not gonna question his knowledge !!!:D:thumbup:
 
Here ya go...#11


bushcraft11.gif


Dan,
This is a great looking knife. :thumbup:
 
I know what ya sayin bro but you may have to batton through some real hard wood with knots in etc and in that case I'd rather have 3V than S30V !



I'm still thinkin a 4" blade would be best for this type of knife !

Cody Lundin also thinks about a 4" blade is right and I'm not gonna question his knowledge !!!:D:thumbup:


Wouldn't a 4" blade also be legal to carry? I know 4" and below is legal to carry here in Memphis, TN....
 
no sweat, Ron. :D

I'm pretty darned excited about it too....:p



A few small sheets of 0.130 thickness 3V are on their way! :thumbup:
 
No Danny, we don't.

But some of us think it needs some kind of hollow handle for all sorts of goodies.
 
I am definitely toying with the idea of creating an "inner chamber" beneath removable handle slabs. :thumbup:
 
I am, by the way, accepting pre-orders on this knife. Steel on the way....handle material on the way...




I have not yet settled on either 9 or 11...(or maybe some kind of twisted combination of the two).


Dan
 
Dan,
I sent you a PM. How can we pe-order one of these Bushcraft knives?

Ron


I would love to see:

Design #11
Red Micarta Handle
(Lefty) Kydex sheath with FireSteel loop
 
Dan,
I sent you a PM. How can we pe-order one of these Bushcraft knives?

Ron


I would love to see:

Design #11
Red Micarta Handle
(Lefty) Kydex sheath with FireSteel loop

You might not need to buy one, you might be the lucky winner bro !!!!
 
Ok guys....here's the latest.


#12


The best mixture of both 9 & 11

bushcraft12.gif



I kept the drop-handle from #9 and put in the contouring from #11.

I extended the butt of the handle from 9 to be more like a "dog bone" handle...to provide a flat spot for batoning.

The more I think about it...having an exposed pommel is going to make things more expensive and time-consuming. Staying with the keep-it-simple concept...came up with a handle that seemed the best of both worlds.

New handle has 2 pins and 2 lanyard holes.

The tang has an "empty box" cut out of it to lighten it up and also since the handles will be removable, it will serve as a mini storage box.

The blade is from #9 - nice and pointy/stabby.

Also, I'm sticking with scandi grind on this one...just seems the most practical...both for me and for general users.



Input still welcome! :thumbup:
 
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