How do traditional hand forged katanas compare to modern high end swords?



so, you're making generalizations about something you know very little about. I don't mean to sound harsh, but it would be like me saying " Those helocoptors aren't safe because they don't have wings"
Yes, you can find anything to prove a point on the net- or youtube. The construction of the katana worked well for the japanese for hundreds of years, I'm sure if it was something prone to failure they would have come up with alternate construction methods (they're pretty crafty at those things)

Having said that, a katana is not designed to chop anything...


Having said that, a katana is not designed to chop anything...


Now, that, my good man is a "generalization" and not correct. Katanas are, in fact designed to chop something. Specifically People.

In fact, that is the purpose of them. Which is readily apparent by looking at the design. They generally have a curve along the entire edge, which helps to maximize the slashing and cutting power. In fact, for a light sword, they have impressive "chopping" power. Traditional blades were often tested on cadavers, using different angle cuts. From shoulder to hip, across the middle, across the mid section etc.

Now, being that I know "very little" about the subject, I don't off hand remember the traditional Japanese phrase for these specific cuts. And I am too lazy to look them up.

But a very interesting article I read talked about the original method of using live targets in the form of criminals, before they had to move to cadavers.

Blades were rated by how many bodies they could cut through in a single stroke. 5 body blades (tested to cut through 5 human bodies, bones and all) sound pretty damned impressive, and indicate that Katanas are, in fact "designed to chop" something, as opposed to "nothing".

Now, if you wanted to make a sweeping, overly broad generalization about a sword being "not being designed to chop anything" you might want to reserve that statement for a sword design, that is, in fact, designed to chop nothing. Oh, I don't know, like a small sword, which has no edge what so ever (usually with a cruicform or sometimes triangular cross section) with no sharpened edge at all. They are used as a thrusting weapon. With no ability to cut because they are square with no edge, and only a pointy tip.



Now, the Katana, as stated earlier, is actually capable of very impressive chopping. In part, this is due to the length of the handle, in relation to the blade. The longer handle allows for a two handed grip. The hands are spaced far enough apart to allow the user to use a push/pull technique that actually accelerates the blade like a pivot action (which is actually a concept that lead to wide spread use of the side handled police baton with the little handle on the side. They are derived from the tonfa, an Okinawan kobudō weapon. One of the strong points of the side handled baton is that it allows you to use a push/pull action on the two different grip points allowing more acceleration and power in the strike when compared to a baton without the little protruding handle).

To be fair on the opinions on Katanas and "making generalizations about something you know very little about", to assume that because I have never received training in cutting or fighting with one, must mean that I just jumped into this conversation after watching a few Samurai movies, and Kill Bill I and II would be an incorrect assumption.

The subject has interested me for about 20 years now. I am not a super well versed in all the terminology. But have spent some time reading on the subject of construction methods, and the history of the swords, including, as I stated in my one of my earlier posts, and interesting bit of info, that after one of the Chinease invasions there was a redesign of the katana to make it more robust after too many failures in combat (against what the Japanese considered the vastly "inferior" Chinese weapons).

If you re read one of my earlier posts, I did comment that the handle treatment, when done right and fitted by some one that knows what they are doing, is strong enough I would not be concerned about using it hard.

One of the fine gentlemen on this forum who is trained in cutting (I believe for more than a decade), and competes in tameshigiri competitions posts very informative threads on this very topic has stated in past posts that he replaces the standard bamboo pin with a sturdier denser bamboo knitting needle on his swords, and that it is an area he would not just trust from any manufacturer. (
Kohai999 - STeven Garsson) He also posted about broken handles, and even destroying (or at least bending and rendering unsafe) his own higher quality production swords regularly from cutting practice.

Again, I have watched many destruction video's of production Katanas from different manufacturers (done by independent reviewers). I have also seen people post photo's of their their broken handles, bent, chipped and ruined blades and injuries.


Most importantly, the original poster asked:
How would a hand forged san mai katana, forged by a master using traditional techniques and steel compare to modern swords like the Busse AK 47 and other high end swords made with cutting edge steels in terms of durability, edge holding, and overall cutting ability?

What would happen if the two swords clashed? Would stock infi prevail over hand forged japanese san mai?

discuss.

I have and use my own Infi. I have used it hard and been very impressed with the toughness, impact resistance and edge retention in my very own knives. I have seen years and years of pics and torture test video's of these very knives and swords (the ones the original poster specifically asked about). I have also watched destruction video's to failure of Infi. I am not an expert in destruction testing of any steel, especially not Infi, because I will never, ever, have a need to use a 6 lb steel sledge hammer on the spine of my knife to cut through steel with it. Nor will I ever put it in a vice and hit it sideways with the sledgehammer for 20 minutes just to see that it can take it. I will just keep using mine as cutting and chopping instruments.


again the original question was:
Most importantly, the original poster asked:
How would a hand forged san mai katana, forged by a master using traditional techniques and steel compare to modern swords like the Busse AK 47 and other high end swords made with cutting edge steels in terms of durability, edge holding, and overall cutting ability?

What would happen if the two swords clashed? Would stock infi prevail over hand forged japanese san mai?

discuss.

My point with the bamboo handle pin, and handle construction was not meant as a knock against the Katana in general. The OP's question was specifically about the comparison between the construction, the steel, cutting ability, and apparently, what the results would be if you took a traditional Katana and bashed it against an AK47 in Infi steel.

The Busse AK47 handle is a full/exposed tang with no taper. The handle material on the standard versions is going to be either canvas micarta or G10 depending on which version you bought (the Busse custom shop has also put out variations using Rams horn, wood, mammoth tooth etc). Now, I am no expert in the shock resistance or torsional strength of the natural wood used in the traditional Katana (The wood core of the handle is traditionally made of honoki wood, which I have been told is very similar to tulip poplar.......just to be clear, I cut and pasted this from some one who knows more than me).

I do know that G10 and Micarta have very good characteristics for resisting impact, and torsional stress. The G11 (similar to G10 but just more fire/heat resistant) that I used on one knife I made is actually rated at 65,000 lbs per square inch of force before failing. This material is attached to the handle by multiple flared stainless steel tubing. Very strong attachment. From an abuse standpoint, I will take Infi and micarta handles over a traditional wood handle held on with a single bamboo pin (even a nicer, denser piece of bamboo made from a traditional bamboo knitting needle). The Busse's ship with a very thick robust edge. It is not optimized for laser like slicing. It is designed at being indestructible. They do have a custom AK version called a "Dragon's Fang" which, so far, I have only seen two of. They are 5/16 thick Infi, and really sharpened pry bars that are longer in the handle and the blade than the standard AK. Although I have never been a fan of finger grooves on most knife designs, let alone on a sword.

I kind of thing that was somewhat the intent in the original OP's question.

It is, kind of like asking which would do "better" if you crashed them into each other a Hummer or a classic Ferrari. Different builds, value, and created for completely different purposes.

Busse's swords really are designed so you can run around and chop trees, and coconuts, and cinder blocks and steel doors and car hoods and (enter object you want to destroy here), and I have seen people do all of these things with them (including very dangerous looking bend tests ........... David Brown, and Tyrkron Lawson, I am talking to both of you. At least David had the sense to have shoes on......don't think I didn't notice your sandals in some of those pics Tyrkon).

I do know that as delivered, the standard AK's will be easily out cut by traditional design katanas (whether they use super traditional forged/folded method with a composite blade of different levels of hardness and steel composition, or a traditionally designed katana using modern steel). The geometry is so much better on the traditional katana. Now if you were talking about a modern steel, with a traditional profile, with both the traditionally made and modern made super steel version having the identical specs for geometry, that the modern steels will likely out perform the traditional steel (Blasphemy I know!), but smarter people than me have stated for their cutting swords they prefer modern steel, stock removal, to even modern steel forged because the steel performs better in that configuration. (ie the benefits of using a modern super steel are diminished by then forging, folding it, and re heating it , and folding, and reheating and repeating many times)


You will also notice that I did not address the many other "custom/modern" makers swords using modern super steels. Although I have seen them mentioned in posts (including this one), and other steels like L6 (that some really like). I have not used them. I have held some, and even swung one, if that makes you happy.


As a side note, I would love to train with, and own some nice traditional style Katanas. My home town, of a whopping 20,000 people, oddly enough does not have a place that offers such training.

The last place I lived where I checked into it (my friend was training). He told me that at his school, you had to study the basics of the martial art for 3-4 years before the instructor would even let you touch a Boken and start training with that. My friend trained with the boken on the sly, with another school on the side.

I have almost purchased a katana many times, and have always decided against it. For one reason, I know I would be forced to use it, and I would not have the training. I have used some of my big choppers (knives) for cutting (fun stuff like heavy duty shipping tubes, they make a great noise when you cut them), green saplings etc. I just think if I had a practical Katana I would eventually have to try it out.

I do throw hawks, and axes, (and yes......I have to admit I have been throwing knives my whole life......kind of ninja-ish). So I think I would probably use a Katana, and eventually hurt my self.

Even as I write this, I am wearing three pieces of Infi, on a baldric/sheath combo I made........sitting on my ninja throne, surveying my fortress of solitude.



:D:thumbup::) (because we all know a Ninja who uses emoticons is a true ninja!)

I just had a realization. I believe this thread is the first time in my bladeforum experience I have been called out on a thread, and told I am a stupid-know-nothing...........Kind of a rush.........It is also the most time I have ever spent responding to another posters disdain for me! Now I know what all the mall ninja's and trollers feel like when some one calls them a Dumb@$%!:D:thumbup:

I don't mean to sound harsh, but it would be like me saying " Those helocoptors aren't safe because they don't have wings"


I think you meant helicopters, not helocoptors. Unless you were specifically referring to the particularly evil "Hello-Kitty-Coptors" which are indeed inventions of complete devilry! Who ever thought it would be a good idea to let those insidious pink kitties design and build their own attack "helocoptors" has unstopped the floodgates of hell with that one! Of course everyone knows that Helicopters are held aloft with nothing but witchcraft and the devils power!!!!! I know this because I have two good friends, both certified instructors. Both of which have been involved in Chopper crashes. One of which, sadly, died in his last crash.

I tried to tell them that no good would ever come of those devil powered contraptions!
 
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Now, that, my good man is a "generalization" and not correct. Katanas are, in fact designed to chop something. Specifically People.

Mmmmm.......no.

Katanas were never designed to chop:

"to cut or sever with a quick, heavy blow or a series of blows, using an ax, hatchet, etc."

Katanas SLICE or CUT.

The design of a Katana was indeed made to cut people. Basically, it is a pull or push cut, depending upon angle and entry point, but most usually it is a slight hybrid of both.

Ideally, the cutter extends the hands ALMOST fully, in an arc. The object is not to make contact with the target and stop cutting(chop) but to draw the sword back towards the cutter in a slicing motion....this takes advantage of the shape of the blade, the angle of the edge and most importantly, the length of the blade.

Even in a short parry, or something like an armpit cut, there is about 12"+ of the blade used in a push or pull.

Mr. Shepherd knows what he is speaking of....he himself has been studying for a good bit of time with a recognized Sensei...he is also a working knifemaker, fyi.

modern super steel

Almost always refers to stainless steel; SG2, ZDP-189, S90V....the reason they are called "super" is the amazing amount of carbon, and then usually chromium-in the case of ZDP-189, is is 3% carbon/20% chromium....that's a lot....would not make a good sword though.

I would absolutely love the opportunity to cut with a katana made of INFI, shaped by a qualified polisher and mounted to my specs....but right now, that is unobtanium.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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It's worth noting that there are many who feel that the use of two mekugi pins in the tsuka of a katana is not only excessive, but actually a step backward. The thought here is that with a single pin it allows the nakago to rotate inside the tsuka a little in the event of a catastrophically hard blow, denting the inside of the tsuka core, which is traditionally carved from poplar or other similar soft wood for just such a reason. With two pins the nakago is completely immobilized, and has a greater chance of cracking, rather than crushing, the tsuka core under such a circumstance. You can still use a sword with a tiny bit of shake in the tsuka--not so with one that's actually cracked open. Providing that the mekugi is of good quality, dense bamboo then it should be more than strong enough to hold up.

For reference I don't claim this as my own experience--only what I've seen discussed by some practitioners and nihonto scholars.
 
"Now, that, my good man is a "generalization" and not correct. Katanas are, in fact designed to chop something. Specifically People.

In fact, that is the purpose of them. Which is readily apparent by looking at the design. They generally have a curve along the entire edge, which helps to maximize the slashing and cutting power. In fact, for a light sword, they have impressive "chopping" power
. Traditional blades were often tested on cadavers, using different angle cuts. From shoulder to hip, across the middle, across the mid section etc.

Now, being that I know "very little" about the subject, I don't off hand remember the traditional Japanese phrase for these specific cuts. And I am too lazy to look them up."

I really don't need to comment, as you proved my point
"I just had a realization. I believe this thread is the first time in my bladeforum experience I have been called out on a thread, and told I am a stupid-know-nothing...........Kind of a rush.........It is also the most time I have ever spent responding to another posters disdain for me! Now I know what all the mall ninja's and trollers feel like when some one calls them a Dumb@$%!"

Well, now I guess I'm going to call on my inner Garrison (sorry Steven-I had to;) )

Take it how ever you will, "called out"...etc. You make assumptions on something you admit you have no expierience with. The internet is full of experts with no expierience ready to give advise. I'm by no means an expert at anything but breathing, and I'm pretty ineffecient at that.
Having said that, you need to take another look and see that I never said "stupid-know-nothing". I don't veil my words or parse them.

on the subject of traditional vs. modern steel in sword contruction.

all things being equil, geometry-etc. A blade made from a modern day monosteel construction will be more durable than it's historic counterpart.
There's no magic/spirit in tamahagane ( or wootz for that matter) People like the romantic hollywood idea that somehow "the ancients" had a super secret skill that was lost making their swords magical lightsabers.
I can garuntree that if tamahagane were superior than whats made today, we'd see it used in F1 racing.
I'm not saying a sword made from tamahagane is bad by any means. They are incredible works of art and skill and the method of their construction should be continued as a nod to history and the inginuity of the people that developed it.
 
"
Take it how ever you will, "called out"...etc. You make assumptions on something you admit you have no expierience with. The internet is full of experts with no expierience ready to give advise. I'm by no means an expert at anything but breathing, and I'm pretty ineffecient at that.
Having said that, you need to take another look and see that I never said "stupid-know-nothing". I don't veil my words or parse them.

[/COLOR]


Oh, I know you weren't calling me stupid, or dumb. Just uninformed. Which I admitted.

Just messing with you.

The design of a Katana was indeed made to cut people. Basically, it is a pull or push cut, depending upon angle and entry point, but most usually it is a slight hybrid of both.

Ideally, the cutter extends the hands ALMOST fully, in an arc. The object is not to make contact with the target and stop cutting(chop) but to draw the sword back towards the cutter in a slicing motion....this takes advantage of the shape of the blade, the angle of the edge and most importantly, the length of the blade.

Even in a short parry, or something like an armpit cut, there is about 12"+ of the blade used in a push or pull.

I do get the action of drawing the edge toward your self while making the cut. I have used it on softer stuff my self. After reading about it, and seeing video's trying to explain it. I also had as buddy try to show me what they were talking about with a boken. I also understand that the katana by design is not a cleaver. It is not a hacking weapon. You would not use it the same as a Chinese war sword or anything. I have read articles about why the katana is such an efficient cutter for its weight and size specifically because of the combination of a number of things. Handle length to overall length helps develop the speed and power and the pull makes the cut much more efficient and cut much more deeply. I think I would still consider a two handed swing, cutting a substantial target just as much a chopping stroke as a slicing stroke. I think the in close low velocity cuts where you are getting an edge on the target and accomplishing the cut with the forward or backward motion more than with speed would, in my mind be a slicing action. I think in a full swing, where you are also pulling the blade toward your self to accomplish more slicing action, you are also doing a lot of chopping (IE much of the cut is accomplished by the forward energy of the blade, not just the pull). I would also say, that with a sharp edge (or even a completely dull one for that matter) you can sever an arm or leg with a powerful swing with no slicing action at all. A straight chopping motion with no pull/follow through. It is still a 2lb piece of steel with a narrow cross section hitting flesh and bone.

I saw a demonstration with a completely un sharpened sword used for practice (western style sword) with a one handed swing. No pull toward the body, and the guy was able to cleanly cut the tatami mat with a 1 inch oak dowel in the middle. The demonstration was partly to address the argument that a sword had to be laser sharp to be deadly (part of the on going discussion was about whether sharp western swords were even historically accurate, as some argued that they were mostly blunt because a sharp edge would never hold up under combat use). It was an interesting demo.

We know that katanas were used very sharp. A swing with a sharp 3 foot piece of steel, with no slicing or pulling action at all will still easily decapitate or sever arms. A powerful two handed swing will cleave a person across the waist (which I have seen demonstrated with single handed swings from a sharp European sword and Katana both on Deer, hogs, goat, and even cutting on a side of beef, where the bones are much thicker harder to cut than the closest human analogs like hogs and goats etc).

I would state with confidence that a reasonable swing with just a chopping action (IE no follow through or pull) will still be a deadly blow with a sharp Katana.

Recently, there was a college kid (back east if I remember the news story correctly) who used a Katana for home protection. I don't believe he was trained the use of it (the story did not mention any training or expertise). His house had been robbed, and on a separate occasion the burglar came back. Kid catches him in the garage and the guy won't lay down, but comes toward the kid. The audio recording was pretty horrible. The kid took a downward swing with the katana and removed the burlgar's arm and cut deeply through the shoulder/ribs and lung. The paramedics were not able to save the burglar even though they were en route before the kid cut him.

So I don't thing it is unreasonable to say that a sword with a long two handed grip, strong design, and efficient cross section for cutting cannot chop, "and was never intended to chop anything". I would say that the design is much more effectively used when combined with a slicing action. When I chop sapplings with my choppers I tend to just use the chopping action. With longer machetes I do both, and will try to impart that same inward draw on softer targets. Some times, with the machete especially as it has a longer blade I try to incorporate the inward pull in addition to the swing on softer targets like green saplings and bamboo (yes I have cut green bamboo and old dried out hard bamboo as well, though not as cleanly).

I follow through on chops, and often cleave through the target I am chopping. I don't always intend to "stop, retract the blow and chop again".

When I chop with a large heavy chopper, or axe, I normally try to have a solid back stop. I am not chopping "at" the target, but rather, am trying to drive through the target to the back stop (splitting stump, or other log I have set the item being chopped against). I don't chop into the target with the intent to pull my stroke back.

A design like the Chinese war cleaver, broad swords, great swords etc (with very strong chopping designs), can be used to slash, and draw and push cut, and even stab. My european style sword has room for a full two handed hold. I can slash, and draw with that one, but not as easily due to to the overall weight and balance and smaller handle. Heck, even my double bladed viking axe has a 16 inch blade on each side, when choked up on, you can draw cut, push cut (by that I mean pushing the edge forward, not straight into the target). It can also Push cut (straight into the target) with a punching motion when choked up near the head. It can also stab on the points. Was it intended as a "stabbing" weapon? nope, not really. Can it stab.....yes, with great effect.

Are swords designed to be thrown? No. Can they be, and to great effect? Yes.

Not Ideal for a particular purpose, and Cannot are not interchangeable. And that also does not mean that the "less ideal" method was never considered when designing the weapon.

I think it is not realistic to think that in 1000 years of use of the Katana style blade, no one, who was trained in the use of that style sword ever intended to chop, or considered it, or included that possibility in their thoughts and design when tweaking the design (which has evolved over the years).

I have another friend in particular who practices/teaches western style sword fighting. He does arma, and their website had several video's of him demonstrating fighting. One video of him is of a session where in competition he did 90 fights in 40 minutes. Winning 70 of them, and using more than one weapon and style. We have had more than a few conversations about swords in general (he was mostly giving me advice on what brands to look at, and what to avoid. We have also had conversations about different sword styles and strengths and weaknesses etc, including Katanas and specifically the ones made by Angle Sword forge in different steels, and some other production manufacturers.


Almost always refers to stainless steel; SG2, ZDP-189, S90V....the reason they are called "super" is the amazing amount of carbon, and then usually chromium-in the case of ZDP-189, is is 3% carbon/20% chromium....that's a lot....would not make a good sword though.

No disagreement. I even think that a lot of these "uber" performance stainless steels become less desirable when moving up the size range into medium chopper/camp knives. The very characteristics that make them such great small blade steels work against them in larger blades. When I am talking about using modern steels in swords, I am thinking more modern carbon steels. I think an argument could be made that you could build a pretty solid performance katana with laminated technology using one of these steels as the core, or the cutting edge. I was thinking about some of the master forgers who make laminated choppers etc with a high carbon core (non stainless) and stainless sides. Wish I had money for some because I think they are beautiful.

I would absolutely love the opportunity to cut with a katana made of INFI, shaped by a qualified polisher and mounted to my specs....but right now, that is unobtanium.

I am surprised no one has had one made yet. When you look at the size of the Dragon's Fang (length wise, and stock thickness) and the Chuckette (if you have not seen a pic of that it is pretty massive. Like a two handed willow leaf sword almost). I think the custom shop would be able to make one for you, if a person was willing to lay some serious cash down, and wait for a really long time. Although, seriously, I don't know in swords where you are cutting tatami, some of the other modern steels may be better from a edge retention stand point. I think I have read that you, in your experience love L6. I have seen others mention other steels. I do thing that a classically designed katana made from Infi would be awesome.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

I really was not taking any one's critique of my posting with out personal knowledge as a personal attack, or felt offended or anything. I was just thinking out loud, and putting my two cents in on a question that I have both seen discussed before this post, and thought about my self. I think that my opinions are just that. It is what I think, with the information I have gathered.

Think of it like repeating advice I have read on consumerreports.com I don't pretend to be an auto mechanic, or engineer, but if I read that a particular design has flaws (be it cars, electronics etc), I like to have the information. And if my dad asks me "what does consumer reports say about this particular truck with this particular engine/transmission combo......I don't tell him "well, pop, I am not a mechanic so I would never give you advice on that". I will tell him "well pop, consumer reports say that is a really crappy transmission, and that particular engine for that year truck has had a lot of reliability issues".

Same thing for knives (I like to read other's reviews, and testing), and do my own thinking. But if I read multiple reviews citing the same problem that appears to be a pattern, I will not hesitate to say "you know what I heard about XXXX knife, or XXXX steel, or XXXX handle material.


I am not particularly enamored of stub tang designed knives (or really stick tangs either) because I would rather have a sturdier tang design. Does that mean that people have not successfully used stub or stick tang designs for thousands of years. Does that mean that no one can produce a great knife with these features? Nope. Some of my my favorite custom knives have stick tangs. Nope. I just see it is a bit of a design flaw I don't like. All things being equal (steel, handle material etc) I would favor a full tang, or Mostly full tang, even if hidden. I try to avoid knives with 90 degree angles in the handle/tang blade transition. Not because I am a knife maker and have made many knives. Or because I have pushed any knives to failure at that point. But because I have read, and understand that heat the heat treat process can lead to a weak spot due to stress risers with a sharp angle there.

That is the same way I feel about a single bamboo pin holding the handle on. I realize that the design worked for warriors who used the swords in actual combat, and that it was successful for a thousand years etc. But that does not mean I think it is the most robust method (again the original poster was asking about modern katana like swords vs traditional deigns etc, and robustness did appear to be included in his inquiry). I think I did not finish my thought in that post, because I went to bed. My point was that a modern Katana (or Katana like sword) using modern attachment methods for the handle will be more robust than the traditional method. 2 ton epoxy, agri-glass adhesive, metal cross pins, resin impregnated compressed fabric or fiberglass layers (compressed under many tons of pressure) are all stronger than traditional wood handle and bamboo pin construction. It is just a fact. The science of metallurgy, heat treat, cryo treat, and construction materials are all about 1000 years advanced now. I don't need a master to tell me that. I don't need to break a traditionally made sword handle my self to think that.

I can read. I can think. I can learn from other's experiences. And I will be darned, if it is not easier for them to communicate that on the internet, what with instant video up loads, and these neato keyboards that and "Interwebs" that lets me read some guy's post from Florida when he says "oops, had a bit of an accident" or watch a destruction video on a sword where the guy breaking it says.......that handle broke pretty easily.



I don't need to break a big bowie and have it fail at the tang/blade transition with a 90 degree angle, and be pretty sure it was due to stress risers making that a design weakness. I will accept when I hear multiple people (including knife makers) tell me that it is a design flaw. When I also see pics of a knife broken at that exact spot, and some respected people say it was likely due to this issue that the knife failed at that spot, being used how it was, because of that design weakness.


Again, I respect your input greatly. I actually have read some of your earlier posts in this forum about.


And again, I was not really serious about SShepard "calling me an idiot" etc. That is why I included the multiple smilies. I respect both of your opinions, and am open to criticism of mine as well.

Also in the amount of time it took me to edit this post (in between doing work stuff) I see that it too a bit of a nastier turn. :D:) (just so we know this is all in good fun, and in an effort for more education on my part).
 
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Mmmmm.......no.

Katanas were never designed to chop:

"to cut or sever with a quick, heavy blow or a series of blows, using an ax, hatchet, etc."

Katanas SLICE or CUT.

The design of a Katana was indeed made to cut people. Basically, it is a pull or push cut, depending upon angle and entry point, but most usually it is a slight hybrid of both.

Ideally, the cutter extends the hands ALMOST fully, in an arc. The object is not to make contact with the target and stop cutting(chop) but to draw the sword back towards the cutter in a slicing motion....this takes advantage of the shape of the blade, the angle of the edge and most importantly, the length of the blade.

Even in a short parry, or something like an armpit cut, there is about 12"+ of the blade used in a push or pull.


aaaah ...come on now, Katanas only slice and cut, never chop?! That's a bit of a stretch.

You may be adding a slicing motion WHEN YOU CHOP, but any time you SWING the edge into something, you are chopping. They were not cutting through multiple people by placing the edge of the sword gently against a person or object and then pushing/slicing them in half.

The technique may be quite different from using an axe or cleaver, but a chop is a chop, even if you add some slicing motion to it. .....At least that's my veiw on it.

-But what do I know.
 
aaaah ...come on now, Katanas only slice and cut, never chop?! That's a bit of a stretch.

You may be adding a slicing motion WHEN YOU CHOP, but any time you SWING the edge into something, you are chopping. They were not cutting through multiple people by placing the edge of the sword gently against a person or object and then pushing/slicing them in half.

The technique may be quite different from using an axe or cleaver, but a chop is a chop, even if you add some slicing motion to it. .....At least that's my veiw on it.

-But what do I know.

If you hold that a chop seeks to stop, contact and back up when contacting the target media, in sword cutting you are not chopping.

It IS a slice, not a chop, there is no "added chopping motion".....the only way to get through cutting media like bamboo with a katana is to cut it, not to chop it......much easier to chop a stationary object, your target is moving in a sword fight.




You obviously know nothing.....now go back in the corner and play with your ninja dolls...big boys are talking here....good luck at prom.







:D


Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
If you hold that a chop seeks to stop, contact and back up when contacting the target media, in sword cutting you are not chopping.

It IS a slice, not a chop, there is no "added chopping motion".....the only way to get through cutting media like bamboo with a katana is to cut it, not to chop it......much easier to chop a stationary object, your target is moving in a sword fight.

You obviously know nothing.....now go back in the corner and play with your ninja dolls...big boys are talking here....good luck at prom.


:D


Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

WOW! ....Where did that come from? Why the hostility? ...did I hit a nerve by simply and politely pointing out the flaw in your semantical statement?

No need for you to respond in such an immature manner, we are all adults here, you might think about acting like one.

I could sink to your leavel and tell you to go back to your dojo and "play" samuri, or something ...but that wouldn't be very productive now would it?

If, on the other hand, you want to have a discussion/debate on the difference between chopping and slicing, LIKE AN ADULT, just let me know and we can give it a try. :D
 
If, on the other hand, you want to have a discussion/debate on the difference between chopping and slicing, LIKE AN ADULT, just let me know and we can give it a try. :D

It came from the fact that I found it amusing....no one will ever accuse me of being overly mature.

Do I want to debate you about the semantics of chopping vs slicing? No.

When my sensei says that JSA practitioners slice, not chop and demonstrates it....I believe him....and so I repeat that statement because when I "chop", I don't go through the target, but when I slice....I do.

Are you a cutter? If you are not....you should go to a place where JSA are practiced, and......watch.

http://www.youtube.com/user/rickyarias#p/a/u/2/58D-tsDEB28

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I honestly don't get whats being debated:confused:

you can say a katana "chops" all you want- just like people say "judo chop" but neither are correct, no matter how you cut it.

bryfry, you obviously missed the :D
 
When my sensei says that JSA practitioners slice, not chop and demonstrates it....I believe him.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Well, that explains a lot. "because my sensei says so" :thumbup:

Personally I preffer to use logic, and form my own thoughts.

But that's just me. :D






...I do think that JSA stuff is very interesting, but as in all things, some people can take it a little too seriously.
 
Mybe I can try and explain the difference the way the formaly trained guys are speaking about swinging a sword and chopping with a sword


Sure you can chop with a sword but it is not the best way to use the said oblect. The best way I can attempt to explain this is think of a lat pullover when I swing a sword at a target my back is supplying the energy my arms are just the link my hands kinda loose till final target aquisition.

It is a rotary motion which axis is what I would say my core and the motion hits full speed at the target and then is controled to a stop ..The motion is a huge slice powered by my lats and ending in my front leg if that makes any sense. Again this is how I cut don't know if its right or wrong but it works for me

To chop and I chop I burn 13 cords of wood a year and just got a hydrallic splitter 3 years ago . you use your back but the motion is different and there is not near the range of motion and the axe stops it self it is not really a controlled like a cut kinda ending

hope this helps and nobody is trying to seem all knowing and wise just talking about swords and sometimes as I have said before the serious practioners which I seriously cant say I am any more sometimes seem to answer a bit rough
 
When I first give someone a sword and let them swing at a target they swing the sword like a bat more than an axe and they quickly see how you smack the target instead of cutting or sliceing thru it . regardless they botch the cut waste energy and sometimes bend a sword when they learn to cut properly you don't feel the target
 
Well, that explains a lot. "because my sensei says so" :thumbup:

Personally I preffer to use logic, and form my own thoughts.

But that's just me. :D






...I do think that JSA stuff is very interesting, but as in all things, some people can take it a little too seriously.
but a chop is a chop, even if you add some slicing motion to it. .....At least that's my veiw on it
you answerd your own problem- it wouldn't called a chop if you were slicing. Try not to contradict yourself.
"logic" would be finding a legit dojo, and learning for yourself. Twisting something to fit your own preconcieved idea is far from logical.

and as far as taking it "too seriously", you're certianly entitled to your opinion however wrong it may be.
 
Mybe I can try and explain the difference the way the formaly trained guys are speaking about swinging a sword and chopping with a sword


Sure you can chop with a sword but it is not the best way to use the said oblect. The best way I can attempt to explain this is think of a lat pullover when I swing a sword at a target my back is supplying the energy my arms are just the link my hands kinda loose till final target aquisition.

It is a rotary motion which axis is what I would say my core and the motion hits full speed at the target and then is controled to a stop ..The motion is a huge slice powered by my lats and ending in my front leg if that makes any sense. Again this is how I cut don't know if its right or wrong but it works for me

To chop and I chop I burn 13 cords of wood a year and just got a hydrallic splitter 3 years ago . you use your back but the motion is different and there is not near the range of motion and the axe stops it self it is not really a controlled like a cut kinda ending

hope this helps and nobody is trying to seem all knowing and wise just talking about swords and sometimes as I have said before the serious practioners which I seriously cant say I am any more sometimes seem to answer a bit rough

Thanks for the intelligent answear. I totally get what you are saying about the difference in technique between swinging an axe (or bat) and swinging a katana. I'm no expert, but I have swung plenty of each myself.

I understand that propper form with a katana utilizes a "slicing" motion when "chopping", I was just saying that to my mind it is still a form of chopping. To me, swinging the edge of a blade into another object is called chopping, regardless of the presence (or lack there of) of a pulling/slicing motion thrown in.

It's just semantics I think, but for arguments sake do you think it is the added motion used with the sword that changes the definition from chopping to slicing? I know you talk about swinging and cutting through your target with one clean blow, then stopping the sword yourself, but what if you fail to sever the target completely and have to pull the sword out to take another swing?

Also, for the sake of argument, what if you did use the same or similar form to fell a small tree with your axe? (yes kind of silly, but humor me) I understand that the axe does not have the length of edge to draw across your target, but technically you could get a bit of draw just on a smaller scale. So in that case would you say that the tree was definately sliced in two with the axe, and definately not chopped?



haha ....yes I realize we are way off topic now, but I'm honestly trying to understand where the "they don't chop" thing is coming from. :)
 
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Bey fry an axe does not really slice thru a target like a sword does the simpilist way I can put this is you chop with an axe you slice or strongly cut with a katana you know there is a difference

look at this video

it is an old BBC documentary the young swordsman featured as the kendoist in the first few seconds and then at 2:48 and then later in the bamboo grove was my teacher many years after this was filmed and was and is a wonderful cutter very strong and fluid if I where to tell him I was going to chop the target he would have smacked me:D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6NijnImjh4
 
but a chop is a chop, even if you add some slicing motion to it. .....At least that's my veiw on it
you answerd your own problem- it wouldn't called a chop if you were slicing. Try not to contradict yourself.
.

Why does it have to be one or the other? ..Even Kohai999's chopping definition states: "to cut or sever with a quick, heavy blow or a series of blows, using an ax, hatchet, etc."

Guess what, you're not a machine, when you are "chopping" wood with your axe the edge does not contact the wood in a perfect unwavering straight on blow, there WILL be some draw-cut type motion in the arch of your swing. Does that make it less of a chop?


... you're certianly entitled to your opinion however wrong it may be.

Same to you, I guess. :rolleyes:

...Honestly, I don't get why this is even an issue.
 
...Honestly, I don't get why this is even an issue.

Me either, BryFry. You obviously are caught up in the semantics of cutting & chopping. You can easily see JParanee's explanation of the "cut" as known to Japanese swordsmen as opposed to one of Ankerson's Busse chopping videos. UP & Down = chop to them. More circular rotation of the body and drawing the blade through the target = cut to them.

No big deal right? :) :thumbup:
 
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