KA-BAR Tech Talk

Discussion in 'KA-BAR Knives' started by Moosez45, Aug 9, 2011.

  1. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    Octav,

    We kept the same steel (1095CV aka 0170-06) for the Big Brother. I don't know if it is an "all known fact" that a larger blade needs to have a different steel if the blade is over 7". The Becker BK-9 is made from 1095 CV and does quite well. There are other factors besides steel alloy that needs to be taken into consideration...heat treat method, temper, type of grinds...
    The proper terminalogy for the tang is: full length, narrow tang.. not a "Rat Tail" tang. A Rat tail tang tapers down to a point and is usually rammed onto a wooden handle. ie; an ice pick. The tangs on our 1217 et al knives are differentially heat treated. The shoulder being "spring: hardness (HRc 45-52), the hardness gradually moves to soft toward the pommel end. The tang at the pommel end will bend...that is what we want...To bend not break. A bent tang can be straightened back to a usuable knife. A broken tang gives you an unusable knife. While full tang knives offer stronger handles, narrow tang knives are capable of holding up to alot of stress.

    We are developing a hard plastic sheath as an option for the Big Brothers. It will be out sometime in the future.
    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,

    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     
  2. Octav

    Octav

    62
    Oct 29, 2009
    Many thanks, Toooj
     
  3. FAL'ER

    FAL'ER Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 31, 2010
    So have those Leather handled Mark 1's been manufactured yet?

    And I know this is before your time, but any info on when this might have been made and what it was called?
    I should say I've sanded on it a bit so it looks a bunch shiny 'er than it did.
    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011
  4. redmech

    redmech

    491
    Feb 22, 2011
    Toooj,

    Simple question, Today I picked up a new USN Kabar, I have a WW2 USN Kabar and a D2 Extreme that I've had for 8 or 9 years. The new one I just picked up is going to be a user to play with.

    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Carbon-date-my-Kabar-Please!?highlight=carbon

    Anyway, back to my original question. When I was at my local Kabar dealer today, I asked to look at the Warthog. He showed me the Heavy Duty one, but also had one that was a bit smaller and made in Olean. Is the one made in Olean still in production? I looked on Kabar's site and one of the large online Kabar dealers and did not see it for sale. If it is out of production, if so how long? Thanks. I may have to go back and pick it up its out of production.

    Ross,
     
  5. bigocean

    bigocean

    226
    Jul 25, 2006
    Hi Tooj,

    Could you tell us a little bit more about the D2 in the Extreme version of the famous Fighting / Utility Knife.

    I know the D2 is more corrosion resistant, and holds an edge longer... but how does it compare the regular 7" 1095CV Fighting / Utility Knife in terms of strength/toughness when chopping or batoning?


    Regards,

    Jack
     
  6. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    redmech,

    The original Warthog was something that was done in 1997/98. It had the same blade shape as the Warthog II but was slightly smaller and it had the 1211 Kraton handle and Pommel, made in Olean, NY. It was sort of a cult knife that was ugly as sin and had some issues but there was a hard core bunch that liked it. Manufacturing problems ended production in 2005/6 IIRC. After we ended the production, we were deluged with so many calls that we decided to reissue it with the changes that you see today. The old ones are out there. Which one is better; as the papa of both, I can't choose.
    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,

    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     
  7. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    Oregon Fal'er,
    I'm at home right now. When I get back to the office, I'll give you the low down on your picutured kniife.
    Yes the Leather Handled Mark Is are out there. Call Blue Ridge Knives and they can tell you which dealer has them. (The leather handled Mark I is a Blue Ridge exclusive).

    Best Regards,

    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     
  8. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    bigocean,

    KA-BAR useds either Atlas or Crucible D2.
    D2 has much better corrosion resistence due to it's 11% Chrome. It also has superb edge /wear resistence. I'd give D2 an edge over 1095CV for strength and toughness. D2 is used in industry as blanking die steel so it's strong, wear resistant, and can take a pounding.....But listen, 1095 CV is no slouch as a knife steel. It's all in what you want.
    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,

    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     
  9. cramsey3006

    cramsey3006

    Aug 2, 2010
    I've always thought the same about D2. I read all these stories about chipping, breaking, whatever. "No D2 for a hard use knife!" It never made sense to me at all. I had a FIN drop point that I just wailed on and it never had any issues. I even reground it to a zero convex just for kicks which really thinned the lower half of the blade since it was hollow ground from the factory and there were never any edge issues regardless of what I did with it.
     
  10. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    Oregan Fal'er,

    Your knife is a model 598. It was made approx 1920-1930s. Not particularly valuable but its probably a good user knife. Use it; enjoy it.
    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,

    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     
  11. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    cramsey,

    Because of the large chucky carbides, D2 can chip out. KA-BAR does not take D2 to the optimal hardness levels for that reason. we opt for some toughness. Ironically it is the large carbides that give D2 its wear resistence AND the chipping issue.
    Carbides may be microscopic, but as the distal taper of the edge comes to the apex, those microscopic carbides become very large in proportion and the steel matrix is unable to support them, so they chip out. There are other factors involved but generally that is what happens. As a rule of thumb; there is no perfect steel. They all have good and bad points. It's all about what you need or want in your knife to do.


    Best Regards,


    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     
  12. Widerstand

    Widerstand

    Feb 23, 2010
    Toooj I was wondering how you go about looking up old KaBars like you just did for Oregon Fal'er, is there like a book or online site you use for that type of research?
     
  13. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    widerstand,

    For old Union folders, the best reference is "The Official 1983 price guide to Collector knives" by Parker and Voyles. That was the fifth ed. Subsequent editions are hit or miss. The best way is to get multiple editions. (I have 4). Other than that, it is hard as there is not an official KA-BAR book out there. The other guy (President) and I have talked about writing one. A very good thought albeit a momumental task. We have a very large and well documented collection that we can use as a reference. That is why I need to be in the office if anyone asks for ID on old Union knives. I also have a fairly large personal knife library that I've accumulated over 45 years of collecting. It takes time, much study/investigation and a strong desire to do this. Bernard Levine, Frank Trzaska, Larry Thomas, et al; have spent MANY years on old knives. That is why they are good at it.
    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,



    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     
  14. BRL

    BRL

    Apr 27, 2011
    Toooj;

    What Torx head size and length are the screws on the phat bob scales? STR mentioned 2-56 on the clip, but those look totally different than what's holding the scales on. Are they some oddball custom screws or should random civilians like me be able to get a hold of them somewhere?

    And does KA-BAR apply loctite or some other 'glue' to that hardware when attaching the scales in the factory?

    Thanks.
     
  15. 1066vik

    1066vik Gold Member Gold Member

    Nov 28, 2009
    Tech questions only, please.

    Thanks
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 15, 2011
  16. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    BRL,

    The screws that holds the PhatBob scales are 2-56 threads but they have a larger pan head. The screw length is 3/16" L. The Torx bit size for the scale screws is #T-6.
    We use a Blue Loc-Tite for the small screws and fasteners on our folders. Blue is low strength so you can remove the screws. Red is high strength and is much more difficult to remove. We do not put any Loc-Tite on the Becker Handle fasteners (as many of you have found out the hard way). We did that because many of you use the handle cavities for storage. We are having the factory cinch the fasteners down more tightly.
    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,

    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     
  17. BRL

    BRL

    Apr 27, 2011
    Extremely helpful, thank you!
     
  18. J.Davey

    J.Davey

    Feb 10, 2004
    TOOOJ! I have a question. Whenever I get a carbon steel knife with a rubber handle, I always run around the juncture of the blade/handle with super glue, just to seal the handle from moisture. On my Heavy Bowie, it was once around, then done. On my new Heavy Duty Warthog I used half a bottle of Super glue, as it seemed to be filling in spaces inside the handle (there were small gaps on the top and bottom of the handle). After reading a couple posts about the new handles getting loose, I'm now VERY glad I did this. SO, NOW THE QUESTION. If anything ever goes wrong with the handle loosening, is this going to void the warranty? I haven't had a chance to use this beast yet, but I don't really foresee any problems. Just covering my bases. I know it's inexpensive, but I love the knife (and most of your designs); the blade is great, and I personally love the handles on your knives (no brown-nosing intended; I just say it like I feel it). Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2011
  19. cramsey3006

    cramsey3006

    Aug 2, 2010
    I've got another one.....

    I love the look of the Leather Handled Hunter's. What's the RC on the 1.4116 stainless?
     
  20. Toooj

    Toooj

    920
    Aug 8, 2006
    J. Davey,

    You should not have any problem. We have talked to our sub contractor about tightening up the handle on the New Warty and Machete. Super glue will help keep the handle from moving but the blade is still held by the grommet tube. If anything goes wrong,
    superglue will not void the warranty.

    cramsey,

    the hardness for our Din 1.4116 is 55-57 HRc.

    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,

    Paul Tsujimoto
    Sr Eng
    Prod Dev and Qual
    KA-BAR Knives
     

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