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I did stop by tandy for some more snaps and picked up a flask kit. Not sure what I'm gonna put on it.
Leather Thread
- Thread starter JK Knives
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- Dec 16, 2011
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Small pocket sheath I made for rdrogers and his many bluegills.
And a pocket sheath I made for my Fletcher 24/7 my fiancée gifted me. I’ve been meaning to make this one for a while. It’s also finished with Aussie leather conditioner and mink oil. I really like this combo and it ages nicely!
And a pocket sheath I made for my Fletcher 24/7 my fiancée gifted me. I’ve been meaning to make this one for a while. It’s also finished with Aussie leather conditioner and mink oil. I really like this combo and it ages nicely!
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I asked
ty_higg
if he could make me a sheath, and he had it in the mail the next day. In my hand three days after I first asked. I think he is setting unreasonable expectations for his work. A very nice, reasonably priced, and well made little sheath.
Ya’ll hit him up. He does good work.
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Looking good Mr higg
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made a few dozen of these to use up the smaller pieces of the horween chromexel I have laying around.
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Made myself this buckskin dyed pocket sheath last night or finished I should say last night: it came out better than I thought it would.
Then I learned the hard way chisel edges can be difficult to sheath when the sheath is still extremely new and not as bendy I guess is the word or soft after it gets broken in. Not sure if I’ll make myself a new one or not. I finally got the knife in the proper way and you can see where the cut is but the blade isn’t sticking out or going to cut me.
Then I learned the hard way chisel edges can be difficult to sheath when the sheath is still extremely new and not as bendy I guess is the word or soft after it gets broken in. Not sure if I’ll make myself a new one or not. I finally got the knife in the proper way and you can see where the cut is but the blade isn’t sticking out or going to cut me.
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I asked
A very nice, reasonably priced, and well made little sheath.
Ya’ll hit him up. He does good work.
Thanks for the kind words I greatly appreciate it! I hope the sheath serves you well.
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I figured youd like this one John. I got commisioned to make a natural color with white sinew thread for a buck 110 its about 70% complete
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Am I the only one that wears hand made leather work boots. Maybe it's because I grew up in a logging community. I'm cleaning and greasing them currently first I scrub them with saddle soap let them sit then final scrub while rinsing in hot water.
then its to the boot dryer. No certain time just until dry 
after the boots are dry I usually just grease. But once a year(also how often I wash my pickup) I add a light coat of polish
then back to the boot dryer till after supper. Then I'll buff them nothing serious unless it was date night with the wife then they would be shinning nice and pretty. Like my drill sergeant told me one painful morning. He said private do you know what else we mirror shine besides the heel cup and toe cap. I replied I do not know. He yelled tge whole f ing boot and hucked it out the window. If you ever spent time on sand hill you'll know what windows in talking about. I paid alot of sweat that morning 
the I apply boots grease and hand rub it in all the seams and stitching no brush its clean and I made the boot look pretty already.
after that back to the boot dryer and another coat of grease before bed. About halfway finished now. 
dont. Forget about the false tongues or laces they will last forever to if taken care of. They go through every step just like the boots
thw boots took three light coats of grease throughout the night had to keep getting up for dang timer on the boot dryer. In the morning I wiped off the excess grease amd cleaned the eyelets and speed hooks of any grease that got in them
then I pulled out the hand burnishing tools and cleaned up every edge on the boot
next I wiped off the laces and false tongues relaced quick buff and my almost 16 year old work boots look brand new. Then my wofe reminds me I'm taking our sons to ride quads and I always put hours in my boots just to get them dirtu the same day. Wives will never understand. 
then its to the boot dryer. No certain time just until dry after the boots are dry I usually just grease. But once a year(also how often I wash my pickup) I add a light coat of polishthen back to the boot dryer till after supper. Then I'll buff them nothing serious unless it was date night with the wife then they would be shinning nice and pretty. Like my drill sergeant told me one painful morning. He said private do you know what else we mirror shine besides the heel cup and toe cap. I replied I do not know. He yelled tge whole f ing boot and hucked it out the window. If you ever spent time on sand hill you'll know what windows in talking about. I paid alot of sweat that morning the I apply boots grease and hand rub it in all the seams and stitching no brush its clean and I made the boot look pretty already.after that back to the boot dryer and another coat of grease before bed. About halfway finished now. dont. Forget about the false tongues or laces they will last forever to if taken care of. They go through every step just like the boots thw boots took three light coats of grease throughout the night had to keep getting up for dang timer on the boot dryer. In the morning I wiped off the excess grease amd cleaned the eyelets and speed hooks of any grease that got in themthen I pulled out the hand burnishing tools and cleaned up every edge on the bootnext I wiped off the laces and false tongues relaced quick buff and my almost 16 year old work boots look brand new. Then my wofe reminds me I'm taking our sons to ride quads and I always put hours in my boots just to get them dirtu the same day. Wives will never understand.
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I’ve been thinking about getting a pair for a while now just always push it back. It would be nice to have a good pair and only have to worry about getting them resoled.
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Nicks or drews. Whites sold out to tge Japanese and are no where near the quality they used to be. Be ready to drop 500 or better . have a local cobbler measure ypur feet they usally charge 20 bucks. Then the company will want 50 or so to make it to your foot. The break in period is bad ypur feet and ankles will bleed or blister depending on you. But in the end you walk on heaven my friend.
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We know you got a soft spot for buck110 John here it is finished for a fellow in the South
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Here are some interesting thoughts from the traditional muzzleloader forum on tube type, single back seam sheaths. this is the sheath type I am wanting for my Concept Deweese knife that John is making next week. Similar to the sheath that would come with a Rapala Fillet Knife. ::
What are the advantages of the center seam?
This is only speculation on my part, but from period techniques used to mass produce bayonet scabbards.
Most "Industry" back then was "Cottage Industry," where work was farmed out to small shops that employed perhaps a few to maybe a dozen or more workers. (One shoe/boot making factory in Norfolk, VA set up in the late 1740's, employed 17 workers and that was considered a large factory in either the British or American tradition.)
To make Trade Knives and Sheaths as inexpensively as possible and thus gain the most profit, they were made to patterns, though not exactly alike. Still, they were close enough that leatherworkers did not have to custom make sheaths for each knife. They used different wood forms to mark out the leather to be cut for one pattern of knife sheath and cut out many pieces to be sewn into sheaths. They sewed a single line of stitching, wet the leather, then worked the leather by hand and inserted wooden forms so the stitching would be in the center and not exposed the to the knife edge when the sheath/s dried. This way they could make many sheaths fairly quickly and economically.
Gus
What are the advantages of the center seam?
This is only speculation on my part, but from period techniques used to mass produce bayonet scabbards.
Most "Industry" back then was "Cottage Industry," where work was farmed out to small shops that employed perhaps a few to maybe a dozen or more workers. (One shoe/boot making factory in Norfolk, VA set up in the late 1740's, employed 17 workers and that was considered a large factory in either the British or American tradition.)
To make Trade Knives and Sheaths as inexpensively as possible and thus gain the most profit, they were made to patterns, though not exactly alike. Still, they were close enough that leatherworkers did not have to custom make sheaths for each knife. They used different wood forms to mark out the leather to be cut for one pattern of knife sheath and cut out many pieces to be sewn into sheaths. They sewed a single line of stitching, wet the leather, then worked the leather by hand and inserted wooden forms so the stitching would be in the center and not exposed the to the knife edge when the sheath/s dried. This way they could make many sheaths fairly quickly and economically.
Gus
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Two latest sheaths I finished last night. One in English tan for the mud turtle and the other in dark brown.
I also made a quick and dirty prototype of a wallet design I drew a while back with some scrap. It needs about 3/8” off the back panel and I’m gonna add a slash pocket for cash or cards on the other side of the back panel. After that it should be a nice compact little pattern!
I also made a quick and dirty prototype of a wallet design I drew a while back with some scrap. It needs about 3/8” off the back panel and I’m gonna add a slash pocket for cash or cards on the other side of the back panel. After that it should be a nice compact little pattern!
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I'm pretty jealous I havent had time for any leather. All I made was a coffin pamcake sheath lately for a guy at works fancy supersteel knife.