Lets talk GEC!

I think the type of swedge is dependent on the design. For me, a big spear should be mandatory for a cut swedge.
Exaggerated blade . . . exaggerated swedge!
8xIGVQA.jpg


A clip blade looks good either way, depending on the nail pull: long pull looks better with cut swedge, nail nick with drawn.
Queen seems to agree with me!
TDERgOy.jpg
 
A couple more examples of swedges:

Long pull cut
ik0xkG4.jpg


Nail nick drawn (same blade shape)
jrs501d.jpg


One practice I dislike is a cut swedge with a nail nick inside the swedge. To me, the swedge should be in front of or at least above whichever type of nick or pull is used. Nice knife below, but not my favorite combo of nick and swedge.
zkTgWc8.jpg
 
I agree on both points!

I think the type of swedge is dependent on the design. For me, a big spear should be mandatory for a cut swedge.
Exaggerated blade . . . exaggerated swedge!
8xIGVQA.jpg


A clip blade looks good either way, depending on the nail pull: long pull looks better with cut swedge, nail nick with drawn.
Queen seems to agree with me!
TDERgOy.jpg

This just looks right!

A couple more examples of swedges:

Long pull cut
ik0xkG4.jpg


Nail nick drawn (same blade shape)
jrs501d.jpg


One practice I dislike is a cut swedge with a nail nick inside the swedge. To me, the swedge should be in front of or at least above whichever type of nick or pull is used. Nice knife below, but not my favorite combo of nick and swedge.
zkTgWc8.jpg

A cut swedge with the nail nick in the swedge can also make the nail nick less deep, and therefore sometimes more difficult to open.
 
black mamba black mamba that Schatt & Morgan teardrop’s swedge is gorgeous. I’m not always sure how functional a lot of swedges are, but that one probably makes that blade a superb piercing blade, and definitely thins the end for slicing. I’d love to see GEC put a blade out like that. I’m not even a huge spear blade guy, but that’s just impressive.

I also agree with you about the nail nick in the swedge. To me it’s like there’s just too much going on there. I would think from a practical stand point a nail nick should be cut in a taper that provides more surface area for the finger nail to work on, as is typically the case. Not less with a swedge taper.

I’m also not a big fan of cut swedges going 90% up the blade and clumsily terminating. Just looks weird to me, especially on clip points where there’s the terminus of the clip to be a perfect stopping point.
 
My favorite are cut swedges where there is a clear function and purpose. Like allowing the blades to move past each other.
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You can also round off the cut swedges with some 600 or so grit sandpaper and running it up and down the spine, works best if you go the full length to even out the finish you can go to higher grits if it’s more polished but should stay away from where the blade will meet the back spring so as to not round that off.
 
No idea what model that is, but she’s a beauty. Looks like it could take some punishment.

My favorite are cut swedges where there is a clear function and purpose. Like allowing the blades to move past each other.
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Is that the Grinling Whittler? I’ve wanted one of those since I first found out they’d been produced. I love the patina. Well executed knife! I also enjoy how appropriate the beaver shield is.
 
Is that the Grinling Whittler? I’ve wanted one of those since I first found out they’d been produced. I love the patina. Well executed knife! I also enjoy how appropriate the beaver shield is.
It is. I was lucky enough to find a user on the auction site that folks just weren’t bidding on, so I got it for a decent price. It’s nice too, I think it and the American Whittler one are the only all steel ones. I had to sand paper down in the blade well because the blade was hitting the spacer and damaging the sharpened blade since the spacer was steel as well and not brass which doesn’t damage the blade if it hits. It’s in my pocket a lot but they’re hard to find in general and rarely worth the price on the secondary market anyway. An older case carpenters whittler is substantially the same.
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I had to sand paper down in the blade well because the blade was hitting the spacer and damaging the sharpened blade since the spacer was steel as well and not brass which doesn’t damage the blade if it hits. It’s in my pocket a lot but they’re hard to find in general and rarely worth the price on the secondary market anyway. An older case carpenters whittler is substantially the same.

I hate blade rap- it’s the worst followed shortly by wobble. Every midsize SAK I’ve had has blade rap with the large blade striking the tip against the steel spacer; even if it was brass I can’t imagine it wouldn’t misalign the edge. Of course I’m obsessive compulsive about keeping a very keen edge, so maybe for more practical people it doesn’t matter.

I’m happy to know that Grinling is being carried. Beautiful piece and great job salvaging it as a user. Two spring whittlers are my favorite pattern.
 
I hate blade rap- it’s the worst followed shortly by wobble. Every midsize SAK I’ve had has blade rap with the large blade striking the tip against the steel spacer; even if it was brass I can’t imagine it wouldn’t misalign the edge. Of course I’m obsessive compulsive about keeping a very keen edge, so maybe for more practical people it doesn’t matter.

I’m happy to know that Grinling is being carried. Beautiful piece and great job salvaging it as a user. Two spring whittlers are my favorite pattern.
It may depend on different factors, but I lowered the main blade on my Texas camp knife and if I’m not careful closing it, it bashes the brass spacer in the middle with authority and I’ve not seen the least bit of damage, and I’m very particular about the sharpness as well. I’m not advocating this to anyone though as it shocks me every time that the blade isn’t damaged.
 
No idea what model that is, but she’s a beauty. Looks like it could take some punishment.



Is that the Grinling Whittler? I’ve wanted one of those since I first found out they’d been produced. I love the patina. Well executed knife! I also enjoy how appropriate the beaver shield is.

Thats a 2012 Forum knife.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
It may depend on different factors, but I lowered the main blade on my Texas camp knife and if I’m not careful closing it, it bashes the brass spacer in the middle with authority and I’ve not seen the least bit of damage, and I’m very particular about the sharpness as well. I’m not advocating this to anyone though as it shocks me every time that the blade isn’t damaged.

Interestingly, I have the same experience. There's an obvious line gouged into the spacer at the belly/tip that must be from the edge hitting, but there's no edge damage. I honestly can't even believe it. But I check every time and the edge is unaffected.
 
Interestingly, I have the same experience. There's an obvious line gouged into the spacer at the belly/tip that must be from the edge hitting, but there's no edge damage. I honestly can't even believe it. But I check every time and the edge is unaffected.
Camp knife for you? It’s the same thing on the Texas whittler, I can’t recall if it happens on anything else.
 
Man, thats a bummer. I wouldn’t ever believe GEC could produce a knife with that issue. I hate blade rap with a fiery passion.
 
Blade rap on the 89 river boat gambler. Mr. G2 @Gary W. Graley fixed me up. You can do the same. With a rubberized cork looking material, he inserted a thin sliver of this material way down in the blade well, up against the backspring. It don't rap no mo. He did this on his own as he was going out of his way to put an edge on the knife. I was new to sharpening and couldn't get it sharp. In fact, that was a knife I won in a give away here on bf. It's stag handled as well. I count myself lucky.
 
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