Pistol/dagger project

deker said:
If I'm not mistaken Bruce, the reason that folks say you need to triple quench 52100 is because they're not soaking it long enough to get all of the carbides in solution. If you quench three times without any real soak time you stand a better chance of getting the most out of the steel. If you can, put it in the kiln and soak at temp (I forget how long, ask Kevin or Mete) you can quench just once. Of course, you mentioned only heating the blade, so You may not be able to get your proper soak at temp.

You sure pick easy projects don't you? :)

-d
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Iam a sick man:)
One good soak should be enough.
I use an Even Heat oven for HT and plan to make a temporary door with a slot for the blade. Only the blade will get hot hopefully. I should reinforce the webbed section with plate steel and maybe foil wrap it and the handle just to be sure.
 
I've been waiting to see you do one of these in pictures....This is totally cool.....I know you will make this one another Master piece as you always do.
Awesome pics also,
Bruce
 
ryan9977 said:
bruce....stupid question for you.....i have absolutely no knowledge of guns at all.....how do these knife/gun combo's you make work in comparison to mdern guns......would they be comparable to early models of guns made........thanks....ryan
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Ryan I only make muzzle loading guns so they are slow to load but fun to shoot. This one will be easy to clean but as a rule cleaning is the biggest problem with black powder guns as the flash goes turns things black. This one is a smooth bore with a short barrel so theres no way it will be accurate, also there are no sights and you cant bend your wrist to sight down them anyway. Just point and shoot, if you miss you have the blade as a backup.

I have an order for a black powder pistol and a matching bowie. That gun will be about as accurate as a cartridge gun at a short distance at least. Can hardly wait to get started on the set.
 
Do I still have that time slot for a scabbord (sheath)? What can you do for this thing? Share will ya? Remember its French. I can send a wooden replica to speed up things and save shipping/insurance costs.
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Bruce - get a hold off board.......chuck @ wrtcleather.com or 970-259-8396...Once I see it finished I'll no better about styling and yes a wooden replica would be fine to work with...

Ryan - in so far as guns of the period - there are several books out there and you can also browse the auction sites for some good info - Cowans, Greg Martin, and Julia Hanover are some fo the big ones......also take a look at the CLA site - www.longrifle.ws
Here's some original sword guns with flint lock ignition:
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And here's a double barrel that would look great with an attached blade...(hint hint Bruce)....also note the wire inlay work - it was during this period that such wire inlay work reached it's zenith
pistol-001.jpg


Bruce - have you ever though about doing an Elgin Cutlass Pistol? hint hint again....
 
wow....thanks chuck for the pics....that wire inlay is incredible

bruce....thanks for the explanation......ryan
 
Bruce Bump said:
Not sure anybody would want your bippie Dan:D
Where the heck have you been??
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OK, no Bippie for you Bruce :)

I've got way to much stuff to do though.. But I'm still kicking around


I used a little of that Gold leaf you sent me and I'll bet in a hundred years you could'nt guess where.. :D

I'll post it as soon as I get ur done...

Are you ready for some more of that special point north by north east left handed spring steel ? :)
 
Thanks for the very cool relics Chuck. The silver wire work was amazing in those days. Now its seems to be very basic in comparison. They must have removed wood for the wire back then. I cant see how they could pack the wood with that much silver without it bulging out.
Love that double barrel pistol!
 
Dan Gray said:
OK, no Bippie for you Bruce :)

I've got way to much stuff to do though.. But I'm still kicking around


I used a little of that Gold leaf you sent me and I'll bet in a hundred years you could'nt guess where.. :D

I'll post it as soon as I get ur done...

Are you ready for some more of that special point north by north east left handed spring steel ? :)
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I forgot about the gold leaf. Is it under handle scales?

Yes, Im completely out of 1095 and I had to use spring steel from Brownells for this gun.
 
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Dyken blue on the top and bottom edge and scribe a center line or two.

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If the blade is straight this marked line will measure the same on the exact same place on the other side. This side was .010" higher and will need to be ground off to match the other side.

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Removing steel from the higher side. The blade must be straight before the bevels can be ground.
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The bevels can be roughed in now. I'm just getting them established with the 14" wheel but the real bevels will be from a 5" wheel.
Next comes the fun part, Heat Treat.
 
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.010 off, dang i wouldnt want to know how picky you can be when machines/computers were cutting parts out... then again i totally wish i could be that tight in my tolerances by hand, got a ways before i can get there

-matt
 
I swear that Bruce is a machine all by his self.....He is very picky and can hold very tight tolerances by eye.Man I cant wait till the doc gets me back on track so I can do another knife that is close to Bruce,not that I will ever match him....

Keep up the great work Bump,from the other half of the oldBruce and Bruce team....

Bruce
 
Bruce Bump said:
Thanks for the very cool relics Chuck. The silver wire work was amazing in those days. Now its seems to be very basic in comparison. They must have removed wood for the wire back then. I cant see how they could pack the wood with that much silver without it bulging out.
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For what it's worth, high style wire inlay is still done in Russia; don't know if anyone shares techniques internationally....


zolotoihmel_large.jpg


Lots more here: rusart knife gallery
 
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