Pistol/dagger project

Bruce Bump said:
Sounds good Dan
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as they say Bruce , it's in the mail... :thumbup:

Bruce Bump said:
Lets see a pic of the gold leaf sheath
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I have a few pictures of the panel but I need to do a little more work on it first, stitch clean up, stitch spacing, leather prep, you know all the little things :D
or I could just say, my Camera batteries just dyed on me:( :)


, I might say too.. the mill comes in real handy on these C&S jobs of yours don't they :D
 
Padrig said:
Yeah little, right. I don't even have 14" wheels on my CAR. ;)
By the way, thanks for sharing all this with us. Much appreciated.

Pad
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:D Thats funny! Hey that gives me an idea..hmmmmmm inflatable grinding wheels
 
Here it is after the initial belvels. I left it thick enough to regrind just in case (heaven forbid) it warps a little bit.
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I am going to try something Ive never done before but I cant see any reason why it wont work. I am making a "Insul board" door for my Even Heat oven and have cut a slot in it for the blade to poke through. This way the handle will not get hot. Im going to use PBC anti scale for everything that is exposed to heat.
Should have pictures tonight, keep your fingers crossed.
 
Bruce Bump said:
Sounds good Dan

Lets see a pic of the gold leaf sheath
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posted here Bruce
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553597

I am going to try something Ive never done before but I cant see any reason why it wont work. I am making a "Insul board" door for my Even Heat oven and have cut a slot in it for the blade to poke through. This way the handle will not get hot. Im going to use PBC anti scale for everything that is exposed to heat.
Should have pictures tonight, keep your fingers crossed
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Bruce the only thing I'd be afraid of is, will so far a way from your thermocouple will the heat be right on there next to the door ?

can I ask
if you are going to PBC coat it anyway why not just quench the part you want hardened? leaving the tang soft , I know you do this routinely anyway but just asking why on this one?
saving some mess maybe? or to long for your E/H ? ;)

also going through the door you'll have to worry some about where the cold line will be if you know what I'm thinking..
 
Dan Gray said:
posted here Bruce
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553597


Bruce the only thing I'd be afraid of is, will so far a way from your thermocouple will the heat be right on there next to the door ?

can I ask
if you are going to PBC coat it anyway why not just quench the part you want hardened? leaving the tang soft , I know you do this routinely anyway but just asking why on this one?
saving some mess maybe? or to long for your E/H ? ;)

also going through the door you'll have to worry some about where the cold line will be if you know what I'm thinking..
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I dont even want the handle heated back up again beause of the machine work and thin walls created there. The thin barrel mounting walls will be in the heat. I should bolt a spacer in there to keep it from warping. I'm counting on the entire oven space being hot enough to austinize the blade. With that said I am also thinking it wouldnt hurt to have the ricasso just below critical temp where the door slot maybe letting the temp drop somewhat. There will (hopefully) be a tapering of hardness there as long as the cutting edge is hard
 
Dan Gray said:
I C

you could O/A that puppy ;) :D
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Its pretty long and has two edges to heat with a torch. I have thought about heating it in the forge and assisting with a torch but I want the whole blade hard not just the edges, and the oven method is safest I think. Ive spazed out before and dropped blades on the way to the quench also bumped the tip on the tank and bend them. Lately the oven is proving the most reliable method for me.
 
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OK it is resting in the slot and at temp. I didnt get a shot of it coming out red hot because Im alone but heres one with it still smoking coming out of the "tough quench". It looks good and straight too.
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I like the PBC. I filled the entire pocket where the barrel fits with it and it didnt warp in the slightest. Maybe I just got lucky but Im tickled.

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After a long rinse in hot water all the PBC is gone and the barrel fits like a glove.

A file skates off the edges but bites on the handle area. Yippee

In Kayes oven at 400f for an hour twice for tempering
 
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Bruce Bump said:
OK it is resting in the slot and at temp. I didnt get a shot of it coming out red hot because Im alone but heres one with it still smoking coming out of the "tough quench". It looks good and straight too.
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Next time Call me I'll come over and take a pic for ya.
Got lots of time and just kids to watch. HA HA
 
Beautiful piece - very much enjoying watching the story unfold. I have a side-bar question, if you don't mind. I need to build a quench tank and like what I can see of yours. Could you give a brief description of it's construction - height, diameter, material, capacity, base and such?? It will be much appreciated. I have been using nothing but air quenchable steels for the last 9 years and stock removal. Just now trying my hand at forging and oil quenchable.
Regards,
Jacque (Jack) Eagon
Rowlett, Texas
 
jacqueeagonsr said:
Beautiful piece - very much enjoying watching the story unfold. I have a side-bar question, if you don't mind. I need to build a quench tank and like what I can see of yours. Could you give a brief description of it's construction - height, diameter, material, capacity, base and such?? It will be much appreciated. I have been using nothing but air quenchable steels for the last 9 years and stock removal. Just now trying my hand at forging and oil quenchable.
Regards,
Jacque (Jack) Eagon
Rowlett, Texas
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Jack, I have tough quench in one and Parks 50 in the other. They are simply steel pipes on end with one end welded closed and have a cap on them to keep dirt out and in case of flare ups. I like them because I only do one or two at a time. If you were to do more blades the temp goes up in them. One is a 4"x24" and the other is 3"x22". If I had it to do over I would get 6" pipes and mount them on a wheeled cart for storage. Im not sure how much each holds, only a gallon or more. One thing for sure is I like 'Point down" quenching.

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Bruce - a picture is worth a thousand words - thanks.
Just FYI, I ran thru some math for anyone who is interested. My tank of ToughQuench is roughly 6.5"x4"x9" or 234 cubic inches. The 4x24 tank holds 301 cubic inches or roughly 1.25 gallons. The 3x22 tank holds 155 cubic inches or .66 gallons. A 6x8.25 tank would hold 1 gallon; 6x12.5 holds 1.5 gallons and 6x16.5 holds 2 gallons. (all measurements are 'full to the brim' and approximate).
Thanks for sharing the project and the tanks, Bruce.
Regards,
Jacque
 
Wow Jacque, Youre good at math. Been looking for a couple 6" pipes lately. The 2 gallon size 6x16 should be fine for my uses.
Thanks for the compliments on my work.
 
Bruce Bump said:
Wow Jacque, Youre good at math. Been looking for a couple 6" pipes lately. The 2 gallon size 6x16 should be fine for my uses.
Thanks for the compliments on my work.
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Bruce I use the tubes too you may know that anyway I've shown them here before.. the thing with mine are they are made from automotive exhaust pipe
it's thin walled so it cools faster than a schedule # pipe and cheep.
it you want some big stuff get some truck size pipe I'm thinking Napa will carry or can get you 6"

don't that blade look funny sticking out of your Rampmaster II :thumbup::D
I know I love mine :) that's looking up and I know you are soooo relived now :)
 
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