Spyderco Green S110V

ToxicBot11 said:
That WE system is tempting but OuCh! the price:eek: I think I might get the Lansky this year and save up my moola and get the WE system next year..I could probably learn a thing or 2 using the Lansky before moving on to the WE system which is the same concept just a lot more advanced.
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Without doubts WE is quite expensive. I bought sharpmaker eight years ago and love this tool, except when I need to reprofile blades. During this time I tried several inexpensive option to speed-up reprofiling without spending tons of money. I used triangular congress stones, leaned DMT and flat congress stone against sharpmaker rods. As a result I spent tons of money and didn't get the result, which would satisfy me. Finally I decided to get EdgePro, but after some research and watching both system in action on the knife show, I decided to get WE "F&S" model and love it. I didn't use it on S110V yet, bur reprofiled my S35N Native5 at no time. Save your money and buy WE.
 
mkjellgren said:
I agree that freehand sharpening can be very zen-like. I cook professionally, and as such, have amassed a nice collection of high end kitchen knives in addition to my pocket knife addiction. With those, freehand on Japanese waterstones is the only way to go, and as I mentioned previously, once my bevel is set, most of my sharpening of my pocket knives is done freehand as well. If you're looking for a WE substitute that's not so hard on the pocket book, I'd go with the edge pro, it's less than half the cost of a decked out WE, although than the EP can get costly too depending on how nuts you go with the accessory stones (chosera stones aren't cheap...).

With regards to grinding s110v, I'm glad I was using diamonds. Even with the diamond stones, the stones felt like they were just skating across the surface. S110V is some pretty wear resistant stuff, I'm just curious to see whether the edge stability is high enough to hold a 25° inclusive edge. Overall it's performance should far exceed s30v, but what I want to know is if it shares s30v's trait of losing its hair whittling edge rather quickly but holding a working edge almost indefinitely. Due to the large carbide size and volume in s110v I'm assuming such will be the case, it my not whittle hair forever, but it'll eat cardboard for lunch day after day after day without batting an eye.
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Yes...with S110V you need to be worried about whether you're going to damage the diamond plates (though you can do that with much "lesser" steels as well).
 
JNewell said:
Yes...with S110V you need to be worried about whether you're going to damage the diamond plates (though you can do that with much "lesser" steels as well).
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Huh? Diamonds are much, much harder than any steel. Use light pressure.
 
I learned the hard way with some expensive Lansky and Spyderco devices that you have to use minimal pressure and let the diamonds work. Too much force and it pries the gems loose from the bonding agent.
 
Was thinking the same thing, small and heavy. F&F are great, but too small for me. Will save my 2 NIB for future trades.
 
RevDevil said:
But they wear out pretty fast on the DMT equipment, S110V is a ton of carbides.
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Depending on the setup, usually the problem is the diamonds falling out of the bonding matrix. Light pressure helps prevent that. But yes, a steel with a very high % carbide content is going to be highly abrasion resistant and will wear any sharpening equipment but the diamonds themselves are much harder than the steel and will abrade it without difficulty.
 
Not to stay off topic but I just touched-up a CPM-M4 blade tonight on my Wicked Edge and got the same edge as in the pic. This sharpener is a bit of a commitment but IMO well worth it.

And I've got them all...
 
Just got done reprofiling and sharpening mine to 15 DPS, took about 15 mins with the 320 and 400 grit Moldmasters.
 
KNaB said:
Awesome! Can't wait to use them. Thanks for the help Jim.
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The 320 really ate it up fast and the 400 grit puts a nice finished edge on it, was somewhat easier than the K390 Mule was.
 
KNaB said:
I just finished adhering some congress moldmasters to some EP blanks. We'll see how those fare.
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This sounds interesting, I might give it a try. I have a blank that I got off the 120 stone I wore out last year. I was going to make a strop, but this might be better.
 
My sharpening to 30 degrees inclusive went pretty fast with the WE diamonds, but the blade is thin, small and came almost perfectly profiled to begin with (14/17dps).

But I found that sharpening takes a lot more time at each grit on the stone progression. Stropping was hard. This is a really, really wear-resistant steel. Reprofiling my thick, obtuse 0560CBCF to 30 degrees, even with the S110 running three points softer, is a bear, even with the 50-grit diamonds.
 
Fanglekai said:
Huh? Diamonds are much, much harder than any steel. Use light pressure.
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The issue is the strength of the adhesive, or lack of it. That's why using light pressure is required.

Edit - your next post explains the same thing:

Fanglekai said:
Depending on the setup, usually the problem is the diamonds falling out of the bonding matrix. Light pressure helps prevent that. But yes, a steel with a very high % carbide content is going to be highly abrasion resistant and will wear any sharpening equipment but the diamonds themselves are much harder than the steel and will abrade it without difficulty.
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RevDevil said:
This sounds interesting, I might give it a try. I have a blank that I got off the 120 stone I wore out last year. I was going to make a strop, but this might be better.
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Once you see the price, you'll wonder why you don't have them already.
 
Iam gonna buy a sharpmaker ................gonna buy some mold masters for it.
What size triangle rods do I have to order ??? 1/2 in. ??
 
KNaB said:
I just finished adhering some congress moldmasters to some EP blanks. We'll see how those fare.
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RevDevil said:
This sounds interesting, I might give it a try. I have a blank that I got off the 120 stone I wore out last year. I was going to make a strop, but this might be better.
Click to expand...

KNaB said:
Once you see the price, you'll wonder why you don't have them already.
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Oh yes! I mostly use the moldmasters now. I get more consistent results from them than from the stock EP stones. I like them so much that I have a lifetime supply headed my way. :D
 
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