Spyderco Neck Knife?

Harkamus,

I'm most often on .mil computers, that censor pic hosting sites.

Okay, I'm on a USO computer. This is a G10 model, just to test the concept.

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John
 
Looks like it could work. What about reverse grip with pinky in the indexing hole? I realize the knife may not be designed for reverse grip, but I'm just curious what kind of purchase you'd get.
 
Well, your comments about grip angle are definitely true on the ringed version! I don't remember if Sam's tried an inverted grip yet, but it's not the first grip I'd expect an untrained user to try.

John
 
Hi John,

It's looking good. On the Swick design, we also paid attention to the reverse grip with the pinky in the hole.

sal
 
I LOVE my swick 1 and swick 2. A swick 3 is exciting.

Sal, PLEASE produce the swick 3 with a quality kydex sheath. I had a horrible time getting kydex made for my swick 1 & 2 and actually spent more $$ on the kydex than the knife!!!
 
I LOVE my swick 1 and swick 2. A swick 3 is exciting.

Sal, PLEASE produce the swick 3 with a quality kydex sheath. I had a horrible time getting kydex made for my swick 1 & 2 and actually spent more $$ on the kydex than the knife!!!
Don't think that's going to happen. The swicks were always designed to be as economical to the buyer as possible. Adding a sheath would add to the cost. They were always known to be knives you got where you had to get sheaths yourself.
 
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I LOVE my swick 1 and swick 2. A swick 3 is exciting.

Sal, PLEASE produce the swick 3 with a quality kydex sheath. I had a horrible time getting kydex made for my swick 1 & 2 and actually spent more $$ on the kydex than the knife!!!

We'll discuss it. SheathPro makes sheaths for them.

sal
 
Hi guys!

I've been trying a few modifications.

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So far my explorations seem to indicate that the ringed model is trickier to get to work in a variety of hand sizes -- for whatever reason. I could use the version pictured at top, but the more bent version (second from top) was more comfortable for me. However, my wife (much smaller hands) could not use it at all.

With her input, I played with the handle angle and moved back up to a compromise version, shown in the middle. That one we both found comfortable to use -- though we both still prefer the ringless version (two of which are pictured at the bottom) as a general matter. The ring just forces the grip to be a certain way, and the choil version is more flexible.

Now, my biggest question is about the trade-off between the security of the ringed grip (drop-proofing) -vs.- the ease of grabbing the choil version out of a sheath (blinded by shampoo, in a critical hurry, emergency situation). The ring would be harder to lose. But indexing the first finger into the hole is a less natural, speedy, gross-motor skill thing than simply clutching the straigt, choiled handle.

I appreciate any and all thoughts on the matter!
 
Hi Sam,

Good job, you are certainly going about the right way. We often make dozens of models before we're comfortable with trhe ergos of a design. My first thought was also the one in the middle. Looking forward to see what you come up with.

sal
 
Sal, Thanks for again taking the time to check progress here. If you want to send an address to Sam or I, we can send you one of each proto. It's possible that, with your depth of experience, handling them will either make you believe they're worthwhile, or suggest some improvement that Sam and I don't see.

Peace,

John
 
I was just wondering about this project today and came to check. Low and behold, there's an update. Before I read your commentary, I just examined the different models. My first thought was that the second from top was canted downward in excess, which probably helps people with restricted range of motion since you can keep a more neutral balled-into-a-fist grip and cut without having to change too much of your arm mechanics in the wrist. Third one seems a lot better, but my first thought was that it was more or less neutral. I think a cant that is in between the angles of the second (from the top) blade and the middle blade would be perfect.

Regarding rings? I love them for retention, but to make them easier and thus quicker to deploy, I'd think you have to enlarge the hole size quite a bit, which is something I always thought was in Sal's mind when he made the size of the ring in the Swicks.

Again, just my input on these designs. If I come off as offending, please realize I mean no such thing.
 
Hi John,

Let's wait until Sam comes up with his / his mate's and your ideal, then I'd like to see it.

sal
 
Great thread. It's very interesting to follow the thought processes regarding the development of this knife. As part of your research and development, have you considered putting the models you have through some pseudo-real life testing? I know that you have mentioned that people have handled the various knives, but seeing as how you are looking at this as a potential self defense item in the shower, how about trying it in a similar environment?

I'm not saying strip down to your birthday suit and see how it works, but maybe rig up some sort of sheath and see how each performs when your hands are wet and soapy as far as drawing it. Same thing for using it. Get your hands soapy and wet and see if there are any problems with the various models in slashing and cutting. I'm imagining the G10 will not stand up to strenuous testing, but maybe try it out on some styrofoam boards or something similar. It should give light resistance and at least give you an idea of what is good or bad about each model.

I really like the idea, and look forward to the end result. I missed out on the Spot and the Swicks, so I will definitely be looking to pick up one of whatever it is that comes out of this.
 
harkamus,

Thoughtful input is good and appreciated. Thank you. :)

Sal, we'll keep on it.

street soldier, I think I've suggested trying the protos out with liquid on hands, but I don't know if it's been done yet. Usually Sam and I are within easy weekend driving distance of each other, so it's a bit easier to get in-person feedback, when we're working on a new model.

Peace,

John
 
I think I remember reading that you wanted to keep the knife as thin as possible. Does that rule out handle scales? Aggressively textured g10 does a lot for traction in wet conditions, and you can still have the scales be relatively thin.
 
Well, that would be great if carried somewhere else, but abrasive texture underneath your t-shirt, against your skin, would not be good. :D

I suppose it would be pretty easy to glue scales onto it, if the end-user wants to pocket carry.
 
Well, that would be great if carried somewhere else, but abrasive texture underneath your t-shirt, against your skin, would not be good. :D

I suppose it would be pretty easy to glue scales onto it, if the end-user wants to pocket carry.

Ah! I totally failed to think about that scenario. Heh.

To that end, how about some smooth rubber type grip? Rubber is pretty grippy when wet.
 
Sam took the protos with him to his monthly IDPA match, to let a lot of different hands try them. Hopefully, he'll have time to comment about it today. Unfortunately, the female shooter whose opinion he was most interested in seems to have been corrupted by the Scorpius! :eek: :D

John
 
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