Spyderco soon releasing a CBN bench stone

I will say I find glass, vitreous, to be a very interesting bond for diamond and CBN, although I would really like to see how well it bonds to either of these materials with an SEM before going too far with it. How much experience do you have using these different bonds? They all have their strengths and weaknesses. Which is best depends on the application and desired results, so, there is no one best bond.

Since there is no stone in most of our knife sharpening stones I think calling any of them stones is incorrect, so we might as well call any of them that does the intended purpose of stones, stones.
 
We're going to have to create a sharpening cancel culture to make the life miserable of anyone who henceforth uses the wrong term for sharpeners thingamajigs that make knife edges more acute.

I have the ban hammer...step right up. :p
 
abrasivetools said:
it's easy
electroplated sharpening blank is not stone
and can not be, even if manufacturer say so
Click to expand...
I’ve always referred to plated diamond as..... diamond plates. Same with plated cbn.... cbn plates. I think it is you who referred to them as stones.

I’m still not sure why you say “there’s no reason to make them”.
Maybe a language barrier here....
 
Generally in my experience, proper terminology is that a flat electroplated sharpening device is called a "plate;" a natural sharpening device mined from the ground is called a "stone;" and a man-made flat sharpening device with either full abrasive content or a layer of abrasive in a vitrified, resin or even metal binder is called a "hone."

But as far as I'm concerned, this is one of those things where there's no reason to nitpick. We all understand what is meant even by use of the "improper" terminology.
 
Diemaker said:
I will say I find glass, vitreous, to be a very interesting bond for diamond and CBN, although I would really like to see how well it bonds to either of these materials with an SEM before going too far with it. How much experience do you have using these different bonds? They all have their strengths and weaknesses. Which is best depends on the application and desired results, so, there is no one best bond.

Since there is no stone in most of our knife sharpening stones I think calling any of them stones is incorrect, so we might as well call any of them that does the intended purpose of stones, stones.
Click to expand...

I have a wheel that is diamond bonded in a very India stone-esque material. I have no idea why nobody makes these in a bench stone, or in various grits. The wheel is about a 4-600 finish.
 
HeavyHanded HeavyHanded

Did I somehow miss your commentary on the Spyderco CBN stone plate hone sharpening device?
 
I think that is what Shawn @ BBB is doing. I think the reason nobody is doing it is because it is quite difficult.
 
HeavyHanded said:
Its coming hopefully next week, had a merry time of it with USPS...
Click to expand...

Been there, totally understand.

Look forward to reading it when the time comes. Thanks for the reply.
 
Haven't had the chance to poke my head in in some time. Looking forward to the review Heavy! :D
 
Quick review here, I plan on doing some more with it but these are initial impressions.

The plate blank itself is very flat, abrasive laydown is very uniform. There are some very small manufacturing dimples on the 400 grit side but they are too small to effect performance in any way. Overall the quality is there.

The 400 grit side cuts a touch more aggressive than a coarse DMT in terms of speed and scratch pattern. Feedback is a little better.The 800 grit side has very good feedback. Scratch pattern is slightly less refined than DMT Fine. Common to both sides of the CbN is good feedback and ability to shave off the burr at a much lower angle than the DMTs.

The 800 is a very good utility edge. If you like more of a push cutter you'll def want to follow with compound, film, or a finer plate.

To start I used both sides to true and sharpen a 1" wood chisel, you could feel the loose bits being removed pretty easily on the 800 side. Rinsed it with water as I went to remove the debris. I have no idea how much more break-in will be achieved with more grind time, possibly folks familiar with the CbN rods for the Sharpmaker will have more insight. It didn't feel like it was going to be a quick process following the initial break in.

I tuned up several 8" Chef's knives that were heavily worn, the 400 grit side is really not rough enough for that sort of work and I found myself wishing I'd had my Crystalon. Once I got the bevel reset it worked well. The ability to remove the burr at lower angle and with fewer passes apparent even on budget steel.

To me, that is the defining characteristic of this plate/media, nicer feedback and more efficient stock removal than a comparable diamond plate. Despite this, grind speed wasn't noticeably better than DMT on 10v or budget steel, but the final edge cleanup was easier.

Cleaned up like new with baking soda and a scouring pad. Overall a good plate, comparable to a duosharp C/F in terms of where it would fit in a progression.
 
D Diemaker and @DeadboxHero, you're both more than welcome to give the plate a go if you'd like (although if I remember right, I think David already has one).

HeavyHanded said:
Quick review here, I plan on doing some more with it but these are initial impressions.

The plate blank itself is very flat, abrasive laydown is very uniform. There are some very small manufacturing dimples on the 400 grit side but they are too small to effect performance in any way. Overall the quality is there.

The 400 grit side cuts a touch more aggressive than a coarse DMT in terms of speed and scratch pattern. Feedback is a little better.The 800 grit side has very good feedback. Scratch pattern is slightly less refined than DMT Fine. Common to both sides of the CbN is good feedback and ability to shave off the burr at a much lower angle than the DMTs.

The 800 is a very good utility edge. If you like more of a push cutter you'll def want to follow with compound, film, or a finer plate.

To start I used both sides to true and sharpen a 1" wood chisel, you could feel the loose bits being removed pretty easily on the 800 side. Rinsed it with water as I went to remove the debris. I have no idea how much more break-in will be achieved with more grind time, possibly folks familiar with the CbN rods for the Sharpmaker will have more insight. It didn't feel like it was going to be a quick process following the initial break in.

I tuned up several 8" Chef's knives that were heavily worn, the 400 grit side is really not rough enough for that sort of work and I found myself wishing I'd had my Crystalon. Once I got the bevel reset it worked well. The ability to remove the burr at lower angle and with fewer passes apparent even on budget steel.

To me, that is the defining characteristic of this plate/media, nicer feedback and more efficient stock removal than a comparable diamond plate. Despite this, grind speed wasn't noticeably better than DMT on 10v or budget steel, but the final edge cleanup was easier.

Cleaned up like new with baking soda and a scouring pad. Overall a good plate, comparable to a duosharp C/F in terms of where it would fit in a progression.
Click to expand...

I'm really loving what I'm hearing about the plate's performance! :)

I was basically hoping it would be a CBN version of the DuoSharp C/F. Sounds like it's going to fit the bill perfectly with a few added benefits.
 
So, did a little more with this plate last night, my initial impressions reinforced. Even on D2 it cuts the burr easier than diamond or SiC. 800 grit finish is just a touch rougher than a DMT Fine.

I can't be certain but it seems to resist slowing down from swarf build-up as much as diamond when used 100% dry.

Unknown is how durable the plate will prove to be. For the price: performance it is def in the range of the better diamond plates. I'd love to see a 120 and 1200.
 
Hi,

Could anyone please give a update on how these haves held up with heavy use since they have had them? Any tare out or cbn? More durable than Dmt etc?
 
HeavyHanded said:
I have a wheel that is diamond bonded in a very India stone-esque material. I have no idea why nobody makes these in a bench stone, or in various grits. The wheel is about a 4-600 finish.
Click to expand...

That is called a vitreous bond. They are generally mostly used in powered grinding because they resist the high heat that can be generated during that process well. That's not really necessary for a hone that's used manually, a resin bond does just fine for that purpose.
 
eKretz said:
Generally in my experience, proper terminology is that a flat electroplated sharpening device is called a "plate;" a natural sharpening device mined from the ground is called a "stone;" and a man-made flat sharpening device with either full abrasive content or a layer of abrasive in a vitrified, resin or even metal binder is called a "hone."

But as far as I'm concerned, this is one of those things where there's no reason to nitpick. We all understand what is meant even by use of the "improper" terminology.
Click to expand...

The last sentence here is the most important part, but I'd say that "hone" is generally used for any very fine sharpener intended for use as a final stage in sharpening, regardless of format. Flat thin sharpeners will generally be called a plate, of which rigid-backed coated diamond/CBN are most common, but is also often used in reference to thin sintered ceramics. "Stone" is generally used to mean a bonded abrasive but can be used to refer to coated abrasives that have a permanently-affixed base or foundation that is designed to give similar bulk to a bonded abrasive.
 
eKretz said:
That is called a vitreous bond. They are generally mostly used in powered grinding because they resist the high heat that can be generated during that process well. That's not really necessary for a hone that's used manually, a resin bond does just fine for that purpose.
Click to expand...
This is made for a low rpm wet wheel, the composition is very similar to vitreous India stone, but with addition of diamond.

I always assumed there was an issue with heat during forming. Seems like a no brainer to just add some diamond to a SiC or AlumOx bench stone.

My experience with resin bond is they load up quick and grind slow. I have one that I use for finish work/microbevels only.
 
Whether the wheels load up fast and/or grind slow has much more to do with the bond strength and grit level than the bond type.
 
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