The "Ask Nathan a question" thread

- SpyderMan - said:
Thank you, sir. I wouldn’t have thought to use it as a metal protectant, but I’m going to take your word for it and snag a jar. :thumbsup:
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Works for the metal, leather sheaths, boots, and I have even worked it into wood handles (axes) to provide some weather resistance and grip. I really like a bit of it worked in to micarta scales as it gets rid of the dryness but still remains grippy, and to me it looks a lot nicer.
 
JustinFournier said:
Nathan, Jo or anyone else who knows...

What is the maximum temperature I can expose TeroTuf to for say a 2 hour duration without causing warping or damage?

Thank you.
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Maximum temperature I don't know, but it does fine in things like a car or truck in the middle of summer. Any reasonable temperature shouldn't cause any problem at all.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I'm sure we'll revisit the EDC again in the future, but the EDC3 is done.
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That’s good to hear!!!!!!!!!!!
I have seriously tried 100+ knives to fill my “work knife” role. They were all lacking.
The EDC nails it. The handle is super comfortable in brute (tight grip, non detailed work) mode. The handle also lends itself perfectly for more detailed work. Allowing me to twist the blade, due to its “humped” shape, easily. It really is the perfect EDC, at least for me.
Thank you!
And I’m glad to hear they will be around in the future. I mean... I only have three.
Of the three I own I have only used/carried one. It is an EDC2. I have carried it for over two years - daily. I am abusive to this knife by normal standards. I cut through copper wire on a weekly basis. I have only “sharpened” it once - literally. I have stropped or touched it up regularly (once every couple months) because I’ve never really caused the edge enough damage that it needed anymore.
 
Odog27 said:
That’s good to hear!!!!!!!!!!!
I have seriously tried 100+ knives to fill my “work knife” role. They were all lacking.
The EDC nails it. The handle is super comfortable in brute (tight grip, non detailed work) mode. The handle also lends itself perfectly for more detailed work. Allowing me to twist the blade, due to its “humped” shape, easily. It really is the perfect EDC, at least for me.
Thank you!
And I’m glad to hear they will be around in the future. I mean... I only have three.
Of the three I own I have only used/carried one. It is an EDC2. I have carried it for over two years - daily. I am abusive to this knife by normal standards. I cut through copper wire on a weekly basis. I have only “sharpened” it once - literally. I have stropped or touched it up regularly (once every couple months) because I’ve never really caused the edge enough damage that it needed anymore.
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This ^^^

Great little knife which is built like a tank and I'm glad that its days are not numbered, looking forward to its future iteration / variation. I'm only down to 2 now from 6 of the lil buggers but the good news is that they do pop up quite regularly in the secondary market at reasonable prices plus somehow, by hook or by crook, I will get that EDC in TT scales that has been eluding me so far.

Most importantly as you have already discovered on your own, the EDC also makes the ladies scream :D
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Huh? Are you planning on boiling it!?

It might take on some water but I think it will be fine?

It won't be good for the bond between the terotuf and the liner. Again, it will probably be fine?
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Yes boiling it would be my plan, exactly.

The dye I’m using can be applied anywhere over 140. The fixative needs 200 or more. 30 mins was a minimum in the instruction but the micarta needed 60 to be saturated with colour really well. So 60 mins in each bath. I used the stovetop method for best results, soap and salt included.

I rinsed them well and found I could still get a little colour transfer to a white cloth with vigorous rubbing so I put them into the fixative for an hour. Even with soap now, 0 transfer so I’m very happy with the results in the micarta.

If you aren’t confident they will hold up to the heat I’ll test a pair of TeroTuf first. I’d hate to wreck the good ones. I’m not worried about the water. They will dry out in time.
 
JustinFournier said:
Yes boiling it would be my plan, exactly.

The dye I’m using can be applied anywhere over 140. The fixative needs 200 or more. 30 mins was a minimum in the instruction but the micarta needed 60 to be saturated with colour really well. So 60 mins in each bath. I used the stovetop method for best results, soap and salt included.

I rinsed them well and found I could still get a little colour transfer to a white cloth with vigorous rubbing so I put them into the fixative for an hour. Even with soap now, 0 transfer so I’m very happy with the results in the micarta.

If you aren’t confident they will hold up to the heat I’ll test a pair of TeroTuf first. I’d hate to wreck the good ones. I’m not worried about the water. They will dry out in time.
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I knew where you were going with this from the outset.... I was going sarcastically guess, "probably 212F?"

Can you bolt them together, back to back when you do it? Not with the handle fasteners, but with a 1/4" bolt that has a 1/4" tube as a standoff bushing that will bear down on the inner part of the countersink area to clamp them together. This should leave the outer part of the countersink bevel exposed, as well as all the normally handle surface where you want the dye to go.

Anyway, sounds like one of those things - "tell us when you find out."

Like the others - I'm digging the look you get with these. #modyourstuff!
 
TRfromMT said:
I knew where you were going with this from the outset.... I was going sarcastically guess, "probably 212F?"

Can you bolt them together, back to back when you do it? Not with the handle fasteners, but with a 1/4" bolt that has a 1/4" tube as a standoff bushing that will bear down on the inner part of the countersink area to clamp them together. This should leave the outer part of the countersink bevel exposed, as well as all the normally handle surface where you want the dye to go.

Anyway, sounds like one of those things - "tell us when you find out."

Like the others - I'm digging the look you get with these. #modyourstuff!
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I can figure out a way to deal with the warping if it would be an issue. But I know the micarta should hold up well. If it’s providing the rigidity I need then it’s not important. I don’t want them to delaminate either.

I’m game to buy a set to try. I’m all for experimenting. But I’m always looking to avoid the “I could have told you that wouldn’t work.” mistake.
 
I'm pretty sure the 212 degrees will weaken the epoxy, however I expect it will regain its full strength once it cools down so as long as it doesn't fail during the process it's probably okay. It's not a particularly loaded joint regardless.

I guess if it comes apart you'll have to stick it back together...
 
WValtakis said:
For what it's worth, I Rit dyed a set of Terotuf scales and it went fine...I'll see if I can dig up the post:)

Edit-Lol, it was in this thread a couple weeks ago...I thought this conversation sounded familiar:confused:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the-ask-nathan-a-question-thread.1425245/page-136#post-19000100
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I’m not too worried about the dye like we previously discussed. I’m more worried about the fixative. I didn’t imagine I’d need an hour worth at 200+
 
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