Off Topic The Hand Tool thread

[Square_peg]

I’m glad I found this tiny digging/trenching tool made by Mann. I plan to incorporate it in an upcoming bushcraft axe sling that I am making.

With your leather working skills I can't wait to see that.

Here's what the U.S. Army did if it helps.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/mattock-lets-see-what-you-have.1518315/page-2#post-17803128

 

[ithinkverydeeply]

With your leather working skills I can't wait to see that.

Here's what the U.S. Army did if it helps.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/mattock-lets-see-what-you-have.1518315/page-2#post-17803128

Wow! Thanks! That is quite helpful. Although I basically landed on that shape it took me a long time to figure it out.

I’m torn about including the handle in the sling. Given it’s for primitive camping and bushcraft maybe I’ll just rely on finding a stick and carving one...

 

[Agent_H]

My family gave me a gift certificate to Woodcraft for Christmas. I picked up this Kutzall Coarse Shaping Disc for my angle grinder today. My preference is an axe/hatchet for reduction, draw knives and shaves to shape, then rasps/files for fitting but I watched a video of a guy roughing out a bowl and though it was worth a try. Right now I am thinking stock removal from an already stripped stave or dimensional lumber as I have that here now. There is an Extra Coarse wheel available as well.

The Extra Coarse model and the King Arthur’s, "The Lancelot" interest me as well but those seem like they’re for more aggressive removal. Upgrading to "holed" let's you see your grinding pass better as you move the disc across your wood.

Shaping.disc.Coarse


Shaping.disc.Coarse
Almost bought a new set of scrapers but thought I should learn to set and burnish my own. Picked up a rounded model made by Wind River. Does anybody have experience with their products? The other options in stock were: 1) "Made in Switzerland" but were different shapes – one was oval on both sides and the other triangular, and 2)The rounded one at half the price that seemed to present a good learning curve and acceptable limitations.

Wind River burnisher

WindRiver.Burnisher by Agent Hierarchy
Came oiled.

 

[garry3]

My family gave me a gift certificate to Woodcraft for Christmas. I picked up this Kutzall Coarse Shaping Disc for my angle grinder today. My preference is an axe/hatchet for reduction, draw knives and shaves to shape, then rasps/files for fitting but I watched a video of a guy roughing out a bowl and though it was worth a try. Right now I am thinking stock removal from an already stripped stave or dimensional lumber as I have that here now. There is an Extra Coarse wheel available as well.

The Extra Coarse model and the King Arthur’s, "The Lancelot" interest me as well but those seem like they’re for more aggressive removal. Upgrading to "holed" let's you see your grinding pass better as you move the disc across your wood.

Shaping.disc.Coarse


Shaping.disc.Coarse
Almost bought a new set of scrapers but thought I should learn to set and burnish my own. Picked up a rounded model made by Wind River. Does anybody have experience with their products? The other options in stock were: 1) "Made in Switzerland" but were different shapes – one was oval on both sides and the other triangular, and 2)The rounded one at half the price that seemed to present a good learning curve and acceptable limitations.

Wind River burnisher

WindRiver.Burnisher by Agent Hierarchy
Came oiled.

Looks like you choose well.
I would be interested in your opinion on that shaping disc if you would care to post a follow up.

 

[Square_peg]

I like the look of your shaping disc. I've seen those but never tried one. I use a Lancelot carver and it'a real wood eatin' son of a gun. I wonder how this shaper compares to a 16 grit disc on a 7-1/4 angle grinder. It would certainly cut tighter contours.

 

[Agent_H]

Looks like you choose well.
I would be interested in your opinion on that shaping disc if you would care to post a follow up.

When I get a chance to use it I will definitely post a follow-up. G garry3 , I don't have a lot to compare it to but maybe you can glean information from pictures or maybe ask me the right questions lol.

I like the look of your shaping disc. I've seen those but never tried one. I use a Lancelot carver and it'a real wood eatin' son of a gun. I wonder how this shaper compares to a 16 grit disc on a 7-1/4 angle grinder. It would certainly cut tighter contours.

Funny that you chimed in S Square_peg , this was the picture that I had in mind on the way out there:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/making-a-broad-axe-haft.935049/

Are those Lancelots the kind of setup that stays sharp enough to see quite a few projects? Think they might also be resharpened to a certain extent? There was a model there that had two sets of teeth, one like your picture and then another smaller one on the inside of it.

 

[Square_peg]

I don't use mine a lot. I've used it maybe 2 dozen times and always on clean wood. I haven't sharpened it yet and it still cuts fine. It's just a short piece saw chain. It would sharpen just like a chainsaw.

I haven't tried stacking the smaller chain on mine. My understanding is that setup is more for hollowing out than for carving/planing as I do.

 

[phantomknives]

guess what i found at a junk shop today

this could take a while to learn how to use.

 

[Miller '72]

Picked up this Wells & Bros. Co. Greenfield Ma., Little Giant "C" tap wrench. Not sure yet what the "C" indicates.
By name stamp alone I think it may be manufactured in the range of 1888-1912.

Blows away the particular set I have from Japan, 1980's maybe.

 

[phantomknives]

Picked up this Wells & Bros. Co. Greenfield Ma., Little Giant "C" tap wrench. Not sure yet what the "C" indicates.
By name stamp alone I think it may be manufactured in the range of 1888-1912.

Blows away the particular set I have from Japan, 1980's maybe.

tap wrenches have a special place in the tool world for some reason, they're always so interesting to me to see the different ways people hold square things

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Chances are the C is a mark used for internal production ID purposes. One often finds foundry marks on cast ductile iron tool parts, for instance, which often times indicated the particular part contractor or the position on a sprue so that flaws in the casting process could be identified more readily by seeing where the part was relative to the total pour. The handle looks like a turned part, but perhaps they had different handle styles that could be used for that particular model, and that marked the type? Hard to say.

 

[Miller '72]

Chances are the C is a mark used for internal production ID purposes. One often finds foundry marks on cast ductile iron tool parts, for instance, which often times indicated the particular part contractor or the position on a sprue so that flaws in the casting process could be identified more readily by seeing where the part was relative to the total pour. The handle looks like a turned part, but perhaps they had different handle styles that could be used for that particular model, and that marked the type? Hard to say.

That does seem most plausible, it's a fine, deep and clean stamping, from the factory I think also. It's a mark to indicate something about the tool not the owner.

 

[Miller '72]

Chances are the C is a mark used for internal production ID purposes. One often finds foundry marks on cast ductile iron tool parts, for instance, which often times indicated the particular part contractor or the position on a sprue so that flaws in the casting process could be identified more readily by seeing where the part was relative to the total pour. The handle looks like a turned part, but perhaps they had different handle styles that could be used for that particular model, and that marked the type? Hard to say.

Bingo! Thanks fortytwo for making me think and dive deeper

 

[rjdankert]

Handmade marking tools:



L to R:
marking gauge with pencil
marking gauge with double edge knife (cuts rather than tears made from drill bit)
large marking knife with one flat face (blade from a saw blade single bevel edges coming to a point)
smaller marking knife (also double edges and blade from drill bit)







Bob

 

[Agent_H]

Handmade marking tools:



L to R:
marking gauge with pencil
marking gauge with double edge knife (cuts rather than tears made from drill bit)
large marking knife with one flat face (blade from a saw blade single bevel edges coming to a point)
smaller marking knife (also double edges and blade from drill bit)







Bob

Small, tight, and clean - Rjdankert Pro Models?

 

[garry3]

Handmade marking tools:



L to R:
marking gauge with pencil
marking gauge with double edge knife (cuts rather than tears made from drill bit)
large marking knife with one flat face (blade from a saw blade single bevel edges coming to a point)
smaller marking knife (also double edges and blade from drill bit)







Bob

Nice Bob!

 

[Agent_H]

I have always like this:

 

[phantomknives]

Cool, was wondering how old this was,
Copyright 1950, 69 years old, cool.

 

[ithinkverydeeply]

Just got my copy of the Dictionary of American Hand Tools, A Pictorial Synopsis today and wow!

I imagine everyone here already knows about and owns a copy of this. (I’m always late to the party.)
But if you don’t. It’s awesome. 550 pages with 4500 images from catalog illustrations, trade literature and hand drawings. Covering “nearly every tool ever used in North America including ancient tools and trade tools...”

We were just talking about old wagon and logging jacks. Check out these!

This book must be a standard for hand tool collectors, right?

 

[phantomknives]

Simply "Must Own" items for any drill/brace collector

seriously though those are pretty cool implements