What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Hey Rick, you’re right, the link showed a pic from the web that had some detail information about that vintage of blade, I have two of those, as well as a “general purpose” blade from the same era that I started cutting up. In the earlier/linked post I was/am asking if the Chromium Nicole Molybdenum in the blades was soft or decent steel.
Rick Marchand said:
That is a different saw blade than the one in the pic I quoted
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Thanks DB, I wasn’t sure to what degree they were tipped, they don’t have the big chunky tips the modern blades do. I thought I may have lucked out, fun experiment regardless.
Destructabot said:
Looking at the bottom right corner of the back of the package (in your linked thread), it does say that the saw teeth are brazed on carbide. I wouldn't hold my breath on it making anything other than a knife shaped object, but no harm in testing a piece and tempering (pun intended) your expectations on what can be made from it. Have fun!
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I'm working on this two little drop point hunter: blade in Bohler N690c &bolsters in AISI416

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Etching and gluing up a 15N20 hunter/skinner. I have been very pleasantly surprised with how stable 15N20 is in the quench. I have now filed down two blades to between .01 and .02 behind the edge and a pretty tall flat grind on one. They both came out of the quench straight. What I had to learn about this steel is that it work hardens! Even filing the bevels I would get a crust every now and then that would start skating my file, especially at the tip where it got thin and my filing was making it the hottest. Same with drilling, lots of oil and small bites.


 
Having my first go at doing a big twist damascus. 1084, 1095, and 15n20. Started out 1.5” square by about 3” when first welded. Drew it out to about 1” square before twisting. Then forged it down and ground it to about 3/8” x a little over an inch. Oh, how I wish I had a power hammer or press...
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I made a bottle opener pry bar. It was actually a pain machining the bottle opener and the pry bar part. I think it will be a one-off. It works though.

Also working on some mini-kwaikens, two hollow ground, one flat ground, and a Deba-ish kitchen helper.

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bikedave99 said:
Etching and gluing up a 15N20 hunter/skinner. I have been very pleasantly surprised with how stable 15N20 is in the quench. I have now filed down two blades to between .01 and .02 behind the edge and a pretty tall flat grind on one. They both came out of the quench straight. What I had to learn about this steel is that it work hardens! Even filing the bevels I would get a crust every now and then that would start skating my file, especially at the tip where it got thin and my filing was making it the hottest. Same with drilling, lots of oil and small bites.
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I share your experiences with 15N20. I got mine from Alpha and it comes harder that other carbon steels like O1 and 1084. Drilling was very difficult. I also like how well blades come out from quench.

This last time, I heated it to 1200 in my mini kiln and then let it cool slowly. This made machining much easier.
 
Hi Hengelo, the escutcheon is sterling silver. I use scalpels( that I have custom shaped myself) 2 Inlet for its placement. At first it sits a little proud, and then you just sand it off. I'll post some pictures of them... The scalpels that is. They must be made of W1 or W2 because you can heat them, bend them quench them in water and they're hard as a rock.
 
just came back from France after a couple weeks, and decided it was a good time clean the shop and rearrange some things.
I also setup a better belt rack, setup a new workbench for additional table space, rearranged some grinders, and it was the best time to take pics so I'm sharing some :)

and yes that is a mechanics pit in the floor
the forging area, anvil and forge are outside

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