What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

New user of disc sanders, too much gap between table and disc. Glad it was a wood scale and not a piece of steel!
 
DanF said:
Eight stitches, fractured finger and torn out fingernail in the blink of the eye. Be careful out there folks!
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Ouch!!! Buffer mishap? Grinder pinch? Overly aggressive hamster?
 
DanF said:
New user of disc sanders, too much gap between table and disc. Glad it was a wood scale and not a piece of steel!
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Are rest tool on your disk sander grinded like chisel from bottom side where I draw that red line ?
pICJdxG.jpg
 
Natlek said:
Are rest tool on your disk sander grinded like chisel from bottom side where I draw that red line ?
pICJdxG.jpg
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Yes, it is as you have drawn. I simply did not have the rest close enough to the disk and when the scale's thickness matched the gap, it bit me. lesson learned for sure!
 
I use a disc A LOT. Not sure where my table is. Hope all is healing well.
 
DanF said:
Yes, it is as you have drawn. I simply did not have the rest close enough to the disk and when the scale's thickness matched the gap, it bit me. lesson learned for sure!
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Wow, sorry to hear about your accident...it strikes close to home.

I use a 12" Jet disc sander daily, I have never been hurt, but I have had a rag and several work pieces go through that gap....it can be a seriously dangerous machine. In my shop it is #3 after a bandsaw with a 1" carbide resaw blade and a buffer....actually, the sander is probably more dangerous than the buffer, but my concentration level is a little higher with the buffer.
 
I'm working on a little 2.5mm thick, 8cm blade paring knife, and i'm wondering if it needs a distal taper? It seems unnecessary to me, the balance point will be in the handle and it's thin, but I'm not sure. Any advice?
 
Can you imagine this ? I have a friend who has some automatic machines / I don t know name of that things / which can make large series of small steel parts from max. 16mm Dia steel rods ...say tings like pivot for folder knife .Once you make set up they will make thousands .....he give to me lot of different size rods from 304 stainless , most are left over long about 4 inch .... how in the name of God I pick up wrong one ????? I check all of them and all rods are stainless , except this one ?? And I used that one as pin which is some carbon tool steel for bolster on this knife ???? Lucky me :D Now what ? Pin was pinned , have lot of notch ...hole for pin in bolster is heavily tapered and glued .............:mad:
When I glue scale I use long pins , when the epoxy dries I use hammer and they go out .Then I shape handle as I want , make some taper in hole on scale where pins go and then I pinned them ......
8nycX7R.jpg

Little more sanding on handle and I was done ......with rusty pin !
K8pvZXb.jpg

PS . Carbon scale are made with phenolic resin...when wet they are like Micarta ...not like plastic . I like them !
 
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DanF said:
Yes, it is as you have drawn. I simply did not have the rest close enough to the disk and when the scale's thickness matched the gap, it bit me. lesson learned for sure!
Click to expand...

I prefer to sand thin things in the horizontal position.

I made my grinder able to grind vertical and horizontal positions.

rsN3XiM.jpg
 
Natlek said:
Can you imagine this ? I have a friend who has some automatic machines / I don t know name of that things / which can make large series of small steel parts from max. 16mm Dia steel rods ...say tings like pivot for folder knife .Once you make set up they will make thousands .....he give to me lot of different size rods from 304 stainless , most are left over long about 4 inch .... how in the name of God I pick up wrong one ????? I check all of them and all rods are stainless , except this one ?? And I used that one as pin which is some carbon tool steel for bolster on this knife ???? Lucky me :D Now what ? Pin was pinned , have lot of notch ...hole for pin in bolster is heavily tapered and glued .............:mad:
When I glue scale I use long pins , when the epoxy dries I use hammer and they go out .Then I shape handle as I want , make some taper in hole on scale where pins go and then I pinned them ......
8nycX7R.jpg

Little more sanding on handle and I was done ......with rusty pin !
K8pvZXb.jpg

PS . Carbon scale are made with phenolic resin...when wet they are like Micarta ...not like plastic . I like them !
Click to expand...


You can send that to me and never think about it again!
 
WIP

Scaniaman said:
Working on a 40th birthday gift for my hunting buddy. A skinner in .14" RWL-34. Blade is a around 5 1/4". Brass guard and redwood burl scales to be fitted later on..Sanded to 400 grit so far, and I might just stop there. The blade is actually the first one I ever ground, so kind of fun to give.

BcImscl.jpg
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Got some time yesterday to shape handle and guard on this blade. Redwood burl taken to 800 grit and then treated with an organic oilwax. Yet to dry properly and get a light buffing. The photo doesn't really do the wood justice, IRL the burl pattern almost looks three dimensional. This is the best part of knifemaking, when you put that oil on the wood and the pattern comes out after all that work?


Rc0ZmA4.jpg
 
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